Wanted Stout And Ale Recipe

[Back Yard Brewer]

Has anyone got a recipe for a good Stout, Dark Ale and English or Irish Ale. I realise one could probally buy a pack with all the grains, malts and hops together but I am considering making up some double or even triple brews and maybe save some money and buy in bulk. Something similar to the Grumpy's kits if you know what I mean.
Cheers BYB.... :beer: :beer:

 

[Trough Lolly]

Has anyone got a recipe for a good Stout, Dark Ale and English or Irish Ale. I realise one could probally buy a pack with all the grains, malts and hops together but I am considering making up some double or even triple brews and maybe save some money and buy in bulk. Something similar to the Grumpy's kits if you know what I mean.
Cheers BYB.... :beer: :beer:

[post="117950"][/post]​

It's possible to get a decent amber ale out of a kit based recipe - with a bit of effort...here's my James Squire amber kit clone...

Trough Lolly's JS Amber Clone Kit Recipe
1.7 Coopers Draught Kit (or preferably the Malt Shovel Nut Brown Ale kit if you can get it)
1kg Coopers Amber Liquid Malt Extract
1 x Ultra brew enhancer (consisting of):
500g Light DME
250g Maltodextrin
250g Dextrose
250g Weyermann Caramunich I crystal malt grains
200g Dark Brown CSR sugar in 500ml of Boiled Water
180g of Dextrose to bulk prime before bottling for carbonation

30g of Northern Brewer Hops for bittering
20g of Williamette or Fuggles Hops for flavouring/aroma

WYeast 1028 London Ale yeast or re-hydrated Safale SO-4 yeast, or, the Kit yeast
)as the last resort)! (Seriously, if you want the James Squire flavour, you need to use a London Ale yeast)

SG 1.058 FG 1.012

Method:
* Put the 250g of Caramunich in a grain bag / (clean!) stocking.
* Steep the Caramunich like a big teabag in 8L of cold tap water and put on heat - stir gently to ensure the grains are thoroughly wetted and you extract as much sweet liquor as you can - without wringing the bag.
* At 70C, and after the grains have had at least 30 mins in solution, remove grains (hoist into a colander and let it drip out) from pot.
* Gently sprinkle 1L of hot tap water over the grain bag to help rinse out the trapped sugars (this is sorta like sparging - the grains soaked up about 250ml of water and we need a small amount of water to rinse the grains so 1L should do. Any more hot water and you risk extracting harsh tannins from the grain husks.)
* Full flame and bring the resultant extracted liquor in the pot to the boil.
* Toss in the Coopers LME, Ultra Brew and CSR sugar solution and stir through to ensure the sugars don't stick/burn the bottom of the pot.
* Bring back to a rolling boil, add the NB bittering hops and start the 1 hour boil stopwatch!
* Stir boil occasionally - if you use pellet hops you should stir in the ring of hop residue that gathers at the top of the boil - you will get quite a bit of foaming when you pitch the hops so make sure you have a decent sized pot for this job. The hot break will eventually subside as the proteins get broken down in the boil - although there won't be much as you haven't used much grain in this recipe...Enjoy the malt and hops aroma!
* With 15 minutes to go in the boil, add the flavouring/aroma hops. If you have some liquid or Safale Yeast, toss in the kit yeast to the boil - it makes good yeast nutrient during fermentation!
* At zero minutes / flameout, pour in the Coopers Draught Kit and gently stir through - do not splash as the wort is still very bloody hot and you may risk getting Hot Side Aeration (cardboard flavours) - you should not splash/aerate a hot wort above 70C.
* Give the kit around 5-10mins to sit in the hot wort before chilling - do NOT boil again as you want to keep the volatile hop flavours from the kit in the brew. Did you notice how the room was flooded with hop aroma from the bittering hops - well, we don't want to repeat that with the kit - we want that lovely smell and flavour to stay in the beer!
* Chill the pot in an ice bath to around 30C and roughly pour the cooled wort into your fermenter - at this temp you DO want to give it some air so splash pour it into the fermenter - the more O2 you give it, the more vigorous the yeast fermentation.
* Top up the fermenter with cold tap water (splash pour) until you achieve a gravity of 1.055 or you hit 23L - whichever comes first. I have managed to get 24L but it's no big deal. I find that going under 1.055 for this recipe results in a slightly watery / thinner beer...
* Ferment using the 1028 London Ale yeast smack pack or starter (or some dry Safale yeast rehydrated in 300ml of warm 30C tap water) for about 7 - 12 days - try to keep the temp below 24C. You should achieve a final (bottling/kegging) gravity of 1.012 if you ferment at 20-22C.
* Bulk prime if bottling with the dextrose.
* Enjoy in about 3 weeks or sooner if you force carbonate with a keg!
* The longer you can leave it, the finer and creamer the head will be - you will love this one if you love JS Amber!


And here's a Kilkenny kit recipe I got off a mate - and it turned out not too bad at all...(thanks Gazza!)

KILKENNY (for 22.5 litres)
Ingredients:
MORGAN'S ROYAL OAK AMBER ALE
1kg Coopers Light DME
BREWISER FINISHING HOPS - TETTNANGER
BREWISER FINISHING HOPS - GOLDINGS
150g of maltodextrin
1 x sachet of Nottingham Ale dry yeast or a Wyeast 1084 starter if you want to get serious!!

Method:
Mix powdered malt and maltodextrin in about 4 litres of warm water, and bring to a gentle simmer, once the simmer is established put in the Tettnanger hops and continue the simmer for about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and add the bag of Goldings hops and give a quick stir, enough to wet them. Tip the contents of the saucepan into your fermenter (dont worry if either or both the hop bags break, they will do no harm). Add Morgans Amber Ale kit, and top up with cold water to give a temperature of around 23C and pitch your yeast. Maintain the fermentation at no more than 23C. Final SG will be around 1010.

Cheers,
TL

 

[delboy]

TL
you have some nice littel recipes there will try them my self

do you have any nice coopers pale ale clones done in a similar way with methods??

i have tried 1 or 2 but they always seem to lack body or that peculiar friuty taste??

delboy :beer:

 

[Trough Lolly]

TL
you have some nice littel recipes there will try them my self

do you have any nice coopers pale ale clones done in a similar way with methods??

i have tried 1 or 2 but they always seem to lack body or that peculiar friuty taste??

delboy :beer:

[post="117971"][/post]​

Delboy,
Ask and ye shall receive!!

TROUGH LOLLY PALE ALE - Makes at least 23L!
1 x Coopers Draught Kit
1Kg Liquid Pale Malt Extract
300g Caramunich I Grains
1 x Brewiser Brew Booster (or Body Brew) Pack
25g Northern Brewer (10% A/A) Pellets for bittering
25g Cascade (4.3% A/A) Pellets for flavour and aroma
Wyeast 1056 Chico Ale Yeast or the kit yeast if you have nothing else!
If you want a more fruity profile - you could use S-04 yeast...

Use the detailed method from my earlier post, but to summarise:

Steep the Caramunich in 8L of cold water and bring to 70C.
Remove grains and sparge grains in a colander or fine mesh sieve with 2L of hot water (DONT WRING OUT THE BAG) after you hit 70C and the grains have been in the pot for at least 1 hour.
Add the LME (not the kit) and the Body Brew pack to the pot and bring to a rolling boil - watch out for boilovers! If you have the London Ale yeast, toss the kit yeast into the boil - it makes a good nutrient base for the liquid yeast! If not, then keep the kit yeast for pitching into the primary fermenter and put some money aside to buy some liquid yeast when you next visit the homebrew shop!
Add the Northern Brewer hops when the rolling boil has started and mark that time as the beginning of the 1 hour boil. When you have 15 mins to go in the 1 hour boil, toss in the Cascade hops for aroma and flavouring.
Add the kit to the boil at the 1 hour mark (flameout) and stir gently into the wort to mix through.
Cool wort in ice bath (or through a chiller) and pour into fermenter. Aerate well with a paddle or air stone and pump if you have one! Top up the fermenter until you have a starting gravity of 1.055 - you should easily have 23L of wort in the primary fermenter with this recipe.
Pitch the yeast when the wort is 18C and ferment for 1 week. Rack to secondary fermenter and condition for another 2 weeks if you can.
Bottle or keg depending on what you have - if bottling, bulk prime with 180g of dextrose.

Enjoy in 3-4 weeks!

Cheers,
TL

 

[smashed jaffa]

TL,


thanks for the heads up on a JSAA recipe. I have been looking for one that I can do relatively easily. I am definately going to give it a go.

Alas I have just used a can of MSB Nut Brown, so I might have to venture out and buy another. <_<

Could you tell me the difference in using the MSB can or the Coopers Draught?

Cheers and thanks, :beer:

Smashed Jaffa.

 

[Trough Lolly]

TL,


thanks for the heads up on a JSAA recipe. I have been looking for one that I can do relatively easily. I am definately going to give it a go.

Alas I have just used a can of MSB Nut Brown, so I might have to venture out and buy another. <_<

Could you tell me the difference in using the MSB can or the Coopers Draught?

Cheers and thanks, :beer:

Smashed Jaffa.

[post="117982"][/post]​

Basically the MSB kit is a lot closer because it's presumably from the same people who actually brew the JS Amber, ie, Malt Shovel Brewery... I did this recipe originally with a Coopers Draught kit since the Draught kit was a good all purpose base kit that I used to make my kit and grain brews from. Basically I paid less for a 1.7kg can of Coopers Draught from Woolies than buying 1.7kg of Pale Malt Extract from the HBS... :angry:

The Nut Brown is preferred as it's flavour profile is closer to the real thing, but it's still some way short of a partial or all grain version - but that's just my opinion and is not some smartar$e shot at kit brewing...

Let us know how you go with it - it's a nice drop.

Cheers,
TL

 

[Trough Lolly]

As for stouts, I prefer dry irish stouts with plenty of grainy notes, ie, flaked barley!

I have a kit based recipe at home that I'll dig up and post tomorrow.

As for all grain recipes - I did a small batch of dry stout based on a recipe by Ray Mills - and I believe his recipe (Dry Irish Stout #4) makes one of the best dry stouts I've ever had the pleasure of tasting...I hope he doesn't mind me repost the recipe that he published back in March 2004...h34r:

Hi all
This recipe was a secret until now. The mash schedule is important to get a dry stout.
1. Mash at 64C for 90 minutes.
2. Do your normal run off till your mush tun is dry.
3. Then flood your mush tun with 77C sparge water. Do not start sparging
till your grains are completly covered for 10 minutes.
4. Once covered sparge for 45 minutes at 77C. Control your sparge for this
amount of time or close to it.

The Recipe:
Dry Irish Stout # 4
A ProMash Recipe Report
BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------
16-A Stout, Dry Stout
Min OG: 1.035 Max OG: 1.050
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 50
Min Clr: 35 Max Clr: 90 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (L): 22.00 Wort Size (L): 22.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.55
Anticipated OG: 1.041 Plato: 10.24
Anticipated SRM: 38.8
Anticipated IBU: 30.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65 %
Wort Boil Time: 75 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
76.9 3.50 kg. Pilsner Malt (Hoepfner) Germany 1.038 2
11.5 0.52 kg. Flaked Barley America 1.032 2
7.1 0.32 kg. Roasted Barley Great Britain 1.029 575
2.2 0.10 kg. Carafa Special 111 Germany 1.035 635
2.2 0.10 kg. Chocolate Malt Great Britain 1.034 475

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.
Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
26.00 g. Fuggle UK Pellet 5.00 17.7 60 min.
28.00 g. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 6.60 12.5 15 min.

Extras
Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 Unit(s)Whirlflock Fining 15 Min.(boil)

Yeast
-----
White Labs WLP004 Irish Stout

Cheers
Ray Mills

Cheers,
TL

 

[Trough Lolly]

As promised, here's the Stout recipe. It's a partial mash stout and therefore less than half of the fermentables comes from the Coopers Stout kit that the beer is based on. It's a great way to have a go at partial mash brewing if you want to try this method out - and the brew can be made with a 6-pack sized esky and kitchen utensils rather than having to spend big bucks on brewing equipment.


Trough Lolly Guinness Clone

Malt Extract:
1 x Coopers Stout Kit,

Mini-mash consisting of:
1kg IMC Ale Malt
700g Bairds Stout Malt
300g Flaked Barley
200g Thomas Fawcett Roasted Barley

Hops
20g Northern Brewer 9.00% A/A pellets (60mins)
20g EK Goldings 7.00% A/A pellets (60mins)

Extras
1 x tsp of Gypsum in the mashtun water

Yeast
-----
Either Wyeast 1028 or 1084 will be fine - or some S-04 dry yeast, or if nothing else, the kit yeast!!

Method:
Step 1. Do the mash:
Grab a 6 pack esky, half fill with 80C water and slowly dump in the cracked mini mash grain bill - take it easy and try to avoid dough balls. I can normally get up to 2.4kg of grains into a six pack esky so this should be a slightly thinner mash, which is fine. Top up the esky to get a thick'ish porridge and a starting mash temp of 68C - it's important to hit the temp pretty much spot on as a few degrees difference will substantially change the body of the brew, so try to aim for 68C but no higher and don't go below 64C. Let the grains rest for 1 hour and give the mash a gentle stir to lift the bottom of the mash to the top, every 15 mins...

Step 2. Do the sparge:
Grab a large (12L) stockpot, the wife's flour sieve or colander, a muslin bag or cloth and a large soup ladle. After the mash has been sitting for an hour, you need to get the mash out of the esky mashtun and give it a rinse to extract the sweet liquor for the boil. Sit the colander or sieve on top of the stock pot, drape the muslin cloth over the colander to act as a crude filter to keep grain husks from going into the stock pot and ladle 3-4 scoops of grain into the colander and allow it to gravity drip into the stockpot. Grab a 1L jug and slowly drizzle 300 to 400ml of hot (80C) water over the grainbed in the strainer (avoid the sides where the sparge water will simply run off without washing away the sugars). The grain porridge will hold a lot of sugars and colour and you want to get that out of the grains and into the stock pot. Empty the sparged grains into a bucket and repeat until you've ladled all of the grains out of the esky. You should have around 6 litres of sweet liquor in the kettle...Repeat this again with the grains in the bucket - 3 to 4 scoops with 300ml drizzled over it until you fill the stock pot and run out of grains from the bucket. Don't sparge the bejezus out of the grains as you may extract harsh tannins from the grain husks. Keep an eye on the liquid dripping through the colander into the stockpot - if its running clear, you need to replace the grains in the colander with some more from the bucket. I can normally get around 10 to 11 litres of sweet liquor from this process.

Step 3. Do the boil:
Fire up the stockpot on the stove or a burner if you have one. You need to boil the contents for an hour. It will take some time to heat up so keep an eye on it - a boilover is possible and disasterous! A thin foam head will appear as the wort approaches boiling point. When the stock pot starts to boil, add ALL of the hops and boil for an hour. Watch the boil like a hawk - it will foam up with the hops adding nucleation points - ie, it gets even more foam. The boil will result in a substantial foaming hot break from the proteins in the boil - adjust the flame to keep the boil up but the foam from spilling out. The foam will subside in the first 10 minutes so you can ramp up the flame to get a good rolling boil happening, which will key in the hop oils to the wort and add the desired level of bitterness to the beer. Keep a decent rolling boil going for the hour and don't cover the pot - you want the DMS compounds to freely escape from the boil as vapour so you don't end up with undesireable corn/cabbage vegie flavours in the finished beer. Give the pot a stir every 5 mins or so to stop sugars from burning on the base of the stock pot. Enjoy the malt and hop aromas and start cleaning the fermenter! Now is a good time to re-hydrate the dry yeast in a clean pyrex jug if you're using dry yeast...

Step 4. Add the kit:
At the one hour mark of the boil, turn off the flame, and immediately add the contents of the Coopers Stout Kit GENTLY to the boiled wort with the stirrer. Don't thrash the hot wort, just gently whirlpool the hot wort as you slowly pour in the kit and try to avoid the kit from simply dropping to the bottom of the stock pot. You add the kit at the end of the boil because the kit is already boiled by Coopers and has been hopped beforehand so lets keep those hop notes in the beer rather than boiling them out.

Step 5. Do the chill:
Sit the stockpot in a kitchen sink with iced water - empty and replace with cold water as needed to get the brew down to yeast pitching temps - you still need to top up the brew with water in the fermenter, which will drop the wort temp further, so you need to get the kettle down to around 28C. Before the brewday, I have several PET bottles of pre-boiled / clean water in the fridge ready to go so the wort gets to around 18C by the time I pitch the yeast. You'll see a cloud like cold break appear in the wort as it cools - this is just the protein matter coming out of suspension in the wort - nothing to fear here. If you can, gently stir the wort in a whirlpool to assist in chilling the wort in the ice bath where more warm wort gets in contact with the cool sides of the immersed stock pot.

Step 6. Pitch yeast:
Once the stock pot is around 28C or lower (usually takes about an hour unless you have an immersion or counter flow chiller) you can splash pour the stock pot into your fermenter - this is when you do want to add air so give it a decent splashing when you tip it in. You can pour through the colander if you want to keep the hop matter from the brew, but I don't do this as the stout needs all the bittering hops that this recipe prescribes. Drop a sanitised hydrometer in the fermenter and start to fill the fermenter with the chilled water until you reach the target starting gravity - 1.046 or 22L whichever comes first! Remove the hydrometer and note the temp - it should now be under 20C - perfect for the yeast! Pour in the yeast starter or re-hydrated dry yeast, seal and congratulate yourself on a job well done!!

I recommend racking to secondary in the second week when the brew gravity has stabilised at around 1.012 and let it bulk condition at room temp for another couple of weeks before kegging or bottling. If bottling, I recommend bulk priming with 180g of dextrose (or 200g DME if you want to be fancy!).

As you can see, partial mash brewing is not that difficult to do and you will be amazed at how much better your kit based beers will be when you take the time and effort to do a partial / mini mash before the boil.

Cheers and sorry about the long post...
TL