Wanted - 60L draining.

[StaticPhase]

Hey all I just scored 2x60L kegs for nothing and I've seen people turn them into a 3 tier brewing system. I'm trying to make a move to all grain and thought they'd be perfect with some minor adjustments but they have liquid in them... I think it's water but I don't want to take a grinder to them without draining them just in case. I don't really want to buy a tap just to drain the kegs to then cut them up.

Has anyone got a tap/way to drain them?

I'm in Footscray by the way.

 

[mb-squared]

Cover the valve with a towel and then take the head of your hammer and firmly press down on the ball valve. You'll release the pressure without taking a shower in stale beer that way.

 

[2much2spend]

Drill a 1\8 hole away from your face.

 

[Pogierob]

What coupler do the kegs have??

 

[mb-squared]

here's some pics for you:

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/15482-photo-tutorial-removal-of-50l-keg-spears/

 

[StaticPhase]

honestly I don't know. picking them up tomorrow I can post a pic then...

What coupler do the kegs have??

 

[Pogierob]

Ok well I'll explain both.

For "a" type kegs.

Lay keg on side and use a flat blade screw driver or something similar and push the black rubber ring in until you hear gas escaping, wait until it has all escaped.

For "d" type kegs.

Lay keg on side and use a hammer for similar to push in the ball until you hear gas escaping, wait until it has all escaped.

Cut away.

Remember to use a cutting agent when cutting holes in the kegs because if the SS gets heat hardened half way through a hole you are in trouble. ( research this as I'm no expert) although someone on AHB has recently had issues like this.

I cut the lid off a keg 6 months ago and it took a couple of cutting blades, so be prepared.

 

[djar007]

Love any procedure that involves a tea towel and a hammer. Reeks of bush mechanic.

 

[StaticPhase]

Ok well I'll explain both.

For "a" type kegs.

Lay keg on side and use a flat blade screw driver or something similar and push the black rubber ring in until you hear gas escaping, wait until it has all escaped.

For "d" type kegs.

Lay keg on side and use a hammer for similar to push in the ball until you hear gas escaping, wait until it has all escaped.

Cut away.

Remember to use a cutting agent when cutting holes in the kegs because if the SS gets heat hardened half way through a hole you are in trouble. ( research this as I'm no expert) although someone on AHB has recently had issues like this.

I cut the lid off a keg 6 months ago and it took a couple of cutting blades, so be prepared.

Thanks that's awesome. I've got heaps of blades and I just found out I've got 2 more if I want them. I was going to see if Grain & Grape can punch the hole for the tap etc. I'll be right cutting the top of I think but I'm not sure I have a powerful enough drill for the holes if anyone has some advice on that it would be greatly appreciated.

also what do you mean by cutting agent? (excuse my ignorance)

 

[zappa]

also what do you mean by cutting agent? (excuse my ignorance)

I second the use of a cutting fluid. Bunnings stock Suttons - http://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-250ml-cutting-fluid_p6320395

Cannot stress how important this is. Trick is to use plenty of cutting fluid and go slow. When stainless heats up, it starts to harden (and doesn't soften after cooling). If it gets to the point the stainless is harder than your cutting tool, it can get expensive... Also, there's oil, and then there's cutting fluid. Don't try and do it on the cheap by using oil (speaking from experience).

Cutting fluid and a step drill bit. Go slow. Easy as.

 

[StaticPhase]

I second the use of a cutting fluid. Bunnings stock Suttons - http://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-250ml-cutting-fluid_p6320395

Cannot stress how important this is. Trick is to use plenty of cutting fluid and go slow. When stainless heats up, it starts to harden (and doesn't soften after cooling). If it gets to the point the stainless is harder than your cutting tool, it can get expensive... Also, there's oil, and then there's cutting fluid. Don't try and do it on the cheap by using oil (speaking from experience).

Cutting fluid and a step drill bit. Go slow. Easy as.

Thanks heaps. watched a few vids do your recommend a pilot hole?
also I only have cordless tools, 18v brushless but cordless non the less, do you think they'll have enough power to get the job done? otherwise I'll have to get it done somewhere.
Also just spoke to my buddy he's got another 2 kegs I can have. has anyone ever used a keg as a mash tun?

 

[zappa]

I always drill a pilot hole, but you probably don't have to. I'd say it is easier to start with a 1/8" drill bit without it skipping all over the place.

Don't know about the cordless. You don't need much drilling speed, just a little torque. If it doesn't do the job, you can pick up a drill that will for 15 bucks at kmart. And yes, they work fine as mash tuns

 

[Pogierob]

Definitely drill a pilot hole, use cutting fluid and Go SLOW!!!

Battery tools are fine, just have all batteries fully charged before each hole.

 

[mb-squared]

Hey StaticPhase, you're getting some great advice here. Probably all you need. But if you want even more, this guy knows his stuff:

http://brewhardware.com/weldless-bulkhead-install

 

[mb-squared]

and one more source of info:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qrniNZIkWs&list=UURBBPlmq3OnbhiOm7EshI3g&feature=share&index=3

 

[pilgrimspiss]

You'll be fine with a battery drill. Just put it on slow. Drill a pilot hole then a hole saw with centering bit that matches your tap shank. Trefolex cutting oil in the spray can is awesome. Keep spraying it on as it dries up. Dont use a hole saw that you have cut mild steel with as you can impregnate the stainless. Same for your cutting discs.

 

[StaticPhase]

Thanks heaps everybody. Absolute legends all of you. Cheers!!!