Using Water From The Hot Water Service In My Hlt

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The proof is really quite simple...

Get 2 glasses. Fill one with your normal brewing water and another with water from your hot water system. Get both samples to ambient temperature. Compare the look, smell and taste. If you don't pick up any difference or concerns... brew with it and enjoy your beer.

Personally I did this to see if it was worth filtering my water supply a few years ago. Didn't notice the chlorine smell in my water until I smelt the filtered sample! Then it stood out like dogs balls in both aroma and flavour.

If I want to punch out a quick brew, I fill from the hot water tap through the carbon filter. Sydney water is pretty good, but the filter will give you more consistent water. Maybe a good idea for your tank if you have a lot of variables affecting the water that you collect?
 
Helps if I read other posts before I reply... Sorry for the double up
 
Ohh it is almost lunchtime. *looks nervously at his hat*

Probably Magnesium according to your link. So your beers could end up a bit hoppier from using water from the HWS because they may be higher in Magnesium Sulfates?

So why don't you use hot tap water for brewing?

99% of the time I set up my urn with a timer and temp controller the night before so when i get up in the morning it is at strike temp. Filling it with hot water would be pointless for this.

Re the zinc leaching etc, I base this on no evidence other than what I read here on AHB once, maybe other brands use zinc? I don't even know if the anode would cause any ill effects.
 
Jazzafish, what type of filter do you use? I was told not to run hot water through the pleated paper filters.
 
In theory you should be able to crank up the thermostat on a HWS to heat water well above strike temp. Ive replaced enough of them with faulty thermos that were spewing hot water out of the pressure relief valve like giant kettles to know that.
The only thing is the HWS is hard wired and runs a separate fuse at the box, but I cant see why you couldn't adapt a high amp plug and lead to a unit and and just plug it into a regular outlet. Its only the standard live - neutral - earth setup after all. I might just score a 50L unit and give this one a crack, that would be a real time saver on brew day.

And by the way, sacrificial anodes do **** all, even if they are replaced on a regular basis. The idea is metal wont oxidize in the absence of oxygen. Full tank = no oxygen.
That's the idea anyway.
If you get longer than eight or nine years out of a HWS, congratulations.


I've got a Proflow 50L that runs on a 10amp outlet for sale, project that didn't happen(non brewing), it has never been used. Half price at $250

QldKev
 
I've got a Proflow 50L that runs on a 10amp outlet for sale, project that didn't happen(non brewing), it has never been used. Half price at $250

QldKev


Will you post it? Will it fit in a 3kg satchel? :lol:
 
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