Tight Arse Stir Plate

[LethalCorpse]

have you finished my stir plate yet LC?

I was just thinking exactly that, mate. Sorry 'bout the delay, things've been busy. I should have some time next week to have a bash, so stay tuned.

 

[MattC]

So the $15 from the computer guy who I just called on the phone for a fan controller seems like a bargain!

 

[LethalCorpse]

Yep, that sounds pretty good

 

[Fents]

I was just thinking exactly that, mate. Sorry 'bout the delay, things've been busy. I should have some time next week to have a bash, so stay tuned.

Legendary. B)

 

[jonocarroll]

T.A.S.P. All done B)

I think I'm quite happy with the result, and many thanks to all helpful contributors throughout this thread!

Total cost is a mere $15 for the bits I didn't already have or could obtain for free; about $1 of MDF, less than $3 for 20 magnets (delivered), $8 for the stirbar (80mm), $3 for the rubber feet. Got the 3-speed fan for nix from the computing officer @ work, and I had everything else (phone charger, computer cables, rocker-switch, legs, spacers, scotch-clamps, screws, screw-covers, heat-shrink) just sitting around the place.

(excuse my home-made light-box... )





Gets a vortex going with 500ml in a 1L conical flask from top to bottom on the lowest fan setting if I use the very technical 'coaster spacer'. Still stirs 1.5L in my 2L conical just fine. Can't seem to sync with the higher fan speeds, but it just needs to be moving, right?

Currently got this munchin' away on some 2308 munich. Can barely hear it.

 

[A3k]

T.A.S.P. All done B)

I think I'm quite happy with the result, and many thanks to all helpful contributors throughout this thread!

Total cost is a mere $15 for the bits I didn't already have or could obtain for free; about $1 of MDF, less than $3 for 20 magnets (delivered), $8 for the stirbar (80mm), $3 for the rubber feet. Got the 3-speed fan for nix from the computing officer @ work, and I had everything else (phone charger, computer cables, rocker-switch, legs, spacers, scotch-clamps, screws, screw-covers, heat-shrink) just sitting around the place.

(excuse my home-made light-box... )
Gets a vortex going with 500ml in a 1L conical flask from top to bottom on the lowest fan setting if I use the very technical 'coaster spacer'. Still stirs 1.5L in my 2L conical just fine. Can't seem to sync with the higher fan speeds, but it just needs to be moving, right?

Currently got this munchin' away on some 2308 munich. Can barely hear it.

Hey QB,

That's a bigger vortex than i can get. Still mucking around with mine. My 2L flask with a 70mm stir bar seems to work better than the 500mL with a 40mm bar. think i need experiment some more, maybe add some spacers and some extra magnets.

managed to get the pilsner yeast (2007) started on it pretty well though. A bit temprimental to get it syncronised, but okay once it's going.

excuse the scungy ferment behind it, 1469 overflowed.


You keen to swap the 2308 with some 2007 next month?

Cheers,
Al


Edit again: first pic is the 2L flask, second is the 500mL.

 

[jonocarroll]

That's a bigger vortex than i can get. Still mucking around with mine. My 2L flask with a 70mm stir bar seems to work better than the 500mL with a 40mm bar. think i need experiment some more, maybe add some spacers and some extra magnets.

managed to get the pilsner yeast (2007) started on it pretty well though. A bit temprimental to get it syncronised, but okay once it's going.

I think I got very lucky with just the right spacing and strength. I have however fixed the magnets a fixed distance apart, roughly equal to the strongest points on the stirbar, which means my 40mm bar doesn't work as well. Syncing happens each and every time from standstill when I flip the switch B)

You keen to swap the 2308 with some 2007 next month?

Do you mean 2000? I've got some 2007 chewing through a pilsner already. If you mean 2000... you're on. This one's going into a Traditional Bock, and I'll steal a vial of the yeast cake for you before I dump a Vienna on top.

 

[A3k]

Do you mean 2000? I've got some 2007 chewing through a pilsner already. If you mean 2000... you're on. This one's going into a Traditional Bock, and I'll steal a vial of the yeast cake for you before I dump a Vienna on top.

Yep that's the one! I somehow got the yeast you are using mixed up with the one i'm using. Possibly cos i've just come home from the Avoca.

Cheers,
Al

 

[Maple]

Maple,

I had exactly the same problem?

What size magnets are you using, I was using small ones and changed them to bigger ones ( 12mm wide i think ) and after that it works a treat.....

let me know if you want me to measure mine or give me a call at home tonight

Rook

Thanks Rookie, and newguy & Jez and really to all who contribute to this thread. Have been meaning to followup and say thanks, we have success!

 

[Jez]

Nice work!

 

[Adverse]

you all seem to be useing a mechanical solution

has any one looked in to a solid state solution?

i carnt seem to find what i am looking for but this pic is close

now take the top disk off so you have a circular array of electro magnets

then wire them up to something like this in opposing pairs

http://www.high-voltage-lab.com/169/led-chaser

This schematic is my version of a simple 10 LED chaser. There is no 555 timer used because at my local electronics store they are over $4 Cdn. Instead, an oscillator made up of two sections of a 4011 NAND gate is employed. This chip is very inexpensive and extremely common.Circuit diagram


Parts:
R1 1 Meg 1/4W Resistor
R2 100K Pot
R3 1K 1/4W Resistor or 220Ohm if using blue LEDs
C1 0.1uF 16V Ceramic Disk Capacitor
U1 4011 CMOS NAND Gate
U2 4017 CMOS Counter
LED1-10 LEDs Of Any Colour
MISC Board, Sockets For ICs, Knob For R2

Notes:
1. Use R2 to adjust the "chase rate".
2. You may need to use a lower value resistor if you wish to use blue LEDs. Try 220 Ohm.
3. You can also use incandescent lamps instead of LEDs. Use transistors to drive them by connecting the base of the transistors to each of the outputs of the 4017 through a 1K resistor. Connect one end of the lamp to the positive supply. Then connect the other end to the collector of the transistor. The emitter then goes to ground. Depending on the lamps, you may need power transistors that are heat sinked.
4. C1 may be replaced with a larger value for a slower "chase rate".
5. If you have problems with weird circuit behavior, try replacing R1 with a 33K resistor, and increasing C1 to 1uF.
6. If you plan to use this circuit in your car, be warned that in some areas it is illegal to have red, blue or yellow flashing lights unless you are an emergency vehicle.

tap off the LED's to i think there called triacs? to take the load of trigger the magnets

replace R2 with a trim pot and maybe even add in a trim pot for the power going to the magnets

i was looking at about 8 magnets (4 sets of 2)

*DISCLAIMER* i have never managed to get/make any type of kit to work as i am hopeless with electronics it seems.
but am i heading down the right path for someone to design and construct something like this?

 

[A3k]

Hi AE,
Kinda looks like a flat stepper motor stator. Could work, and if it did, youd be able to control the speed pretty well.

If using the circuit diagram youve got, put each output through a Darlington Pair. You can buy a chip with 4 8 I pairs on it I thing for basically nothing.

Id like to see if you can get it to work, but itd be a pain to spend all that time on it for it not to work.

Cheers,
Al

 

[Adverse]

Hi AE,
Kinda looks like a flat stepper motor stator. Could work, and if it did, you'd be able to control the speed pretty well.

If using the circuit diagram you've got, put each output through a Darlington Pair. You can buy a chip with 4 8 I pairs on it I thing for basically nothing.

I'd like to see if you can get it to work, but it'd be a pain to spend all that time on it for it not to work.

Cheers,
Al

well see there you have my problem i am grate at comeing up with idears and working out the basics BUT that is as far as i can go i have no idear about electronics at all (other than wireing a house dad taught me when i was younger or wireing a car as i am an ex motor mech)

the reason i am working on something like this is so i can add in to the center a small heating element that way it can be heat controlled as well with a small stick on temp guage like some computrer cases come with

 

[Adverse]

thinking about it you could smooth out the motion by having it set up like this

4 sets of oposeing coils

1 on
2 off
3 off
4 off

1 on
2 on
3 off
4 off

1 off
2 on
3 off
4 off

1 off
2 on
3 on
4 off

1 off
2 off
3 on
4 off

1 off
2 off
3 on
4 on

1 off
2 off
3 off
4 on

1 on
2 off
3 off
4 on

sorry didnt know a better way to display it

 

[leiothrix]

Yet another tight arse stir plate:

Using two rare Earth Disc magnets 20x5mm from aussiemagnets.com.au.

It has a 12V 80mm computer fan and a 555 based PWM speed controller.

That is it running at full speed. The good thing with the PWM controller is that the motor has enough power to start turning at a much lower speed. So if the power goes off, it will start running right where it left off. A linear power supply requires the speed to be turned up to start it moving, then turned back down to the speed you want it (and yes, that's what i tried first - being lazy usually doesn't pay off )

 

[Simon W]

you all seem to be useing a mechanical solution

has any one looked in to a solid state solution?

i carnt seem to find what i am looking for but this pic is close

I made a similar suggestion in the Arduino Dev Thread.

 

[Wolfy]

I couldn't edit my previous post for the new image location, so here's my Tight Arse Stir Plate (version 1).

It was made from an 80mm speed controlled computer fan, magnet from an old computer disk drive, drive bay bracket for mounting and it used an old computer power supply.
Worked well for a year, before creating fireworks in my lounge room. The stir plate was on a small table with the power supply under, unfortunately the yeast grew too well, overflowed the flask, spilled onto/into the power supply, creating some interesting sparks and sounds before it stopped working.

 

[Pete2501]

I so want to make one of these. :icon_drool2:

All the pics are making me heaps jealous.

 

[merrick]

Hi All,

Catastrophe! Made my stir plate a couple of years with the same rare earth magnets used by Jye and Ross. Works brilliantly. Problem is the stir bar magnet has gone walkabout and I'm stuffed without it. I originally bought the magnets from Jaycar but they no longer stock this type.




Can anybody help with a replacement or point me in the right direction? Many thanks.

Merrick

 

[canon1ball]

Hi All,
Can anybody help with a replacement or point me in the right direction? Many thanks.

Merrick

Hi Merrick,
www.livingstone.com.au
sell all sorts of different stir bars. Very helpfull.
c1b