The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[lael]

What is the actual kit your working on? I`m trying to read through the posts, trying to find if its for any type of electric brewery ie 3V or just a 1V.

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Chris,

It is a control kit called a Brauduino - commonly used for controlling a 1V recirculating system similar to a Braumeister. I've been thinking about how to improve the setup and make it more automated. I'll post that in another thread. The controller controls a pump and a heating source. How you configure that doesn't really matter. Realistically you could control up to a 2 vessel system (HLT and mashtun) with it. The logic and design isn't designed for a 3V at the moment, and the problem with trying to control a3v system is that people have to be ok with a single design - or change the code to suit themselves. To be honest... a lot of people move 'back' to a Brau style 1V from 3V for the convenience, great efficiency and ease of cleaning. There are not too many reasons I would consider going 3V.

Here is one system that someone has just completed: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81183-copper-and-jarrah-braumiser/

Here is my system: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/page-2#entry1118669

And this is what the completed controller from the kit I am organising will look like: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-21#entry1184680

Cheers,

Lael

 

[marksy]

Lael, thanks for that.

I was thinking of the 3V build only because I have 3 big pots, I`m in two minds about now about a 3V. Using just 1V and lifting the malt pipe out sounds great and much more simple. Not to mention space saving.

I`ll have to research more now.

Are you going to sell these kits complete?


Cheers

Chris.

 

[lael]

That is the aim. But there is massive cost up front to having them made, so we need at least 30 people to pre commit.

They are a kit, not a product. Assembly required and you will need to get your wiring checked by a sparky friend before brewing with it.

I'm working on final costing and parts.

 

[marksy]

I'm all good to wire it up.

 

[crazyhorse]

Count me in too thanks Lael.

Nathan

 

[crazyhorse]

1. Lael x2
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9.Mitch_76
10.tateg
11.LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.

 

[marksy]

1. Lael x2
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9.Mitch_76
10.tateg
11.LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14.marksy x 2
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.

 

[bcavan]

Hi Brendan

Yes it is the pins 15 and 16 that control the backlight. The pot does the contrast.

Resistor R6 a 120 ohm controls the current to the backlight. Simple ohms law.

So if 16x2 wants 3.5v @ 30mA then with a 5 v supply and 3.74 on the pins gives 5-3.74=1.26v across the 120ohm resistor using ohm's law gives 1.26/120=10.5mA
Maybe a lower value resistor could be used if you needed greater brightness?

The 20x4
So 5 - 4.2 =0.8v and a current of 280mA gives a calculated resistance for R6 of 2.86 ohms so closest standard value would be 2.7ohms and a bit brighter or 3.3ohms and a bit dimmer. Power or wattage of resistor would be current squared times resistance so quarter watt resistors would be fine.

In practice you could put additional resistor across the existing R6 or pull it out and put a lower value resistor in its place. Depending how bright you want the display and resistors at hand will determine what you can do.

With resistors, putting 2 resistors in parallel halves the resistance, so if you put a second 120ohm resistor in parallel with the existing one you will halve the resistance to 60ohms and double the current. Putting them in series doubles the resistance and halves the current.

Google ohms law or ohms triangle!

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi mate,

Thanks for your help, problem has been solved!!
Mind you I did take the easy way out and borrowed a mates resister stash and tried a few in parallel with the R6 until I was happy with the screen brightness that the 10ohm resister gave me, before and after pics here:

Thanks again,

Brendan

 

[The Judge]

Holy jeebus were you testing that on the sun?

 

[booargy]

Holy jeebus were you testing that on the sun?

no temp sensor connected

 

[bcavan]

Holy jeebus were you testing that on the sun?

Ha ha no, the temperatures supposed to read like that when there's no temp probe connected B)

 

[JB]

Thanks Lael, champion effort.

1. Lael x2
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg
11. LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14. marksy x 2
15. JB
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.

 

[The Judge]

We'll never get to 30 at this rate

 

[lael]

lol - yeah, it takes time Don't worry, development is taking place in the background that will make everyone want one...

 

[The Judge]

Sweet was just bumping the thread ;-)

 

[MastersBrewery]

Lael,
are you going wifi per chance?

MB

 

[lael]

I'll keep it under my hat until we get further along...

 

[MastersBrewery]

heh with all the electronic mastery of late that's gotta be some hat

 

[neo__04]

I'll jump in for one as well.

Just a question, Not sure what you have planned for power inputs/outputs, will we be able to have 15amp sockets?

1. Lael x2
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg
11. LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14. marksy x 2
15. JB
16. Neo__04
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Think I might have to go there too

1. Lael x2
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg
11. LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14. marksy x 2
15. JB
16. Neo__04
17.Masters Brewery
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.