Straining/bottling all grain

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storeboughtcheeseburgers

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Hi guys,

I've never really used a bottling bucket - generally just go straight from the fermenter, but since moving to all grain.. the last batch was particulary trubed. Pretty sure it was the grains, although I did forget to put the clearing agent in Whhoops.. I didn't strain for my cube, but strained for the fermenter (just using a kitchen strainer). Seemed to work alright.

Just wondering two things - is using a strainer in this fashion OK and when it comes to bottling and secondly, I have a 20 L tapped paint pail I used for a few brews, can this be used, do you just extract from fermenter down to the slurry and let it settle in a bottling bucket for a bit - and use a sediment reducer fitting for the tap?
 
storeboughtcheeseburgers said:
Hi guys,

I've never really used a bottling bucket - generally just go straight from the fermenter, but since moving to all grain.. the last batch was particulary trubed. Pretty sure it was the grains, although I did forget to put the clearing agent in Whhoops.. I didn't strain for my cube, but strained for the fermenter (just using a kitchen strainer). Seemed to work alright.

Just wondering two things - is using a strainer in this fashion OK and when it comes to bottling and secondly, I have a 20 L tapped paint pail I used for a few brews, can this be used, do you just extract from fermenter down to the slurry and let it settle in a bottling bucket for a bit - and use a sediment reducer fitting for the tap?
Hi storeboughtcheeseburgers,

I often put close to everything from the boil into my fermentor, but try to leave behind some trub if I can. Other people will be much more selective and would be better at whirl pooling than I. Using a strainer at this point is OK and some people like the fact that pouring your cooled wort through a sieve could actually help aerate your wort pre pitching.

You would not want to do this after fermentation and pre-bottling though. Pretty sure that would be a huge no no on the oxidisation front.

From the sounds of it, your tapped paint pail is an ideal bottling bucket, just attach a bottling wand to the tap

Most times I leave behind about 1.5-3.5L of trub when I bottle. So 23L is more like 20 just depending on hops and malt bill etc. I would also recommend a good cold crash, 4-7 days at -1 will help you clear your beer, but also give a nice, compact trub which will help you get more beer out and less unwanted stuff stirred up.
 
This is one of the core reasons I'm buying a conical fermenter.
 
pat86 said:
Hi storeboughtcheeseburgers,

I often put close to everything from the boil into my fermentor, but try to leave behind some trub if I can. Other people will be much more selective and would be better at whirl pooling than I. Using a strainer at this point is OK and some people like the fact that pouring your cooled wort through a sieve could actually help aerate your wort pre pitching.

You would not want to do this after fermentation and pre-bottling though. Pretty sure that would be a huge no no on the oxidisation front.

From the sounds of it, your tapped paint pail is an ideal bottling bucket, just attach a bottling wand to the tap

Most times I leave behind about 1.5-3.5L of trub when I bottle. So 23L is more like 20 just depending on hops and malt bill etc. I would also recommend a good cold crash, 4-7 days at -1 will help you clear your beer, but also give a nice, compact trub which will help you get more beer out and less unwanted stuff stirred up.
Yes this is my method too. Well I'll be basically racking into the bottling bucket so it should be clear enough, and will settle down in the bottle anyway.

I'll continue straining from the boil, and I too use almost all of the wort and will use a kitchen strainer. if you can get one that sits nice on top of the fermenter makes life pretty easy.
 

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