mckenry
Brummagem
- Joined
- 31/8/06
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Hi all,
Below is an extract out of the yeast topic
[topic="0"]http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=20[/topic]
I read the 9 pages of Batz's technique also - which is mostly about stepping up, to then store for later use.
I just need a clarification on something I plan to do with Liquid Ale yeast. I cant find any thread that answers this directly.
I am making a double batch (about 42L expected) and have 1 wyeast smack pack. If everyone makes a single 1.040 starter, up to roughly 1.5L (made up of 1L water, 100g DME & 125mL wyeast) for a 22ish L batch, do I need to make the starter up to 2.5L -3L to double the cell count? I assume this just means adding another 100g DME 1L water mix when the first starter is at high krausen?
This is where I am confused: When it says below "optionally decanting the "beer" on top of the yeast and only pitching the yeasty portion" does this mean the starter has completely finished and the yeast has caked on the bottom? (but the quote says once it is complete or at high krausen) I thought it was best to pitch when the starter is high krausen, which would mean the yeast wouldnt have settled out yet? Or does it settle even though it is at high krausen?
Also, if I plan to store yeast for later use, instead of using stubbies, which will take up too much fridge space for me, can I completely ferment out the starter, pour off the 'beer' leaving only the smallest amount of liquid, stir the yeast into suspension and pour into my small sample jars which are about 100mL I think? This would leave me a greater yeast:beer ratio in storage than if I use Batz's method of pouring into stubbies without decanting.
I hope someone can make sense of what I am asking and can answer this :lol:
Thanks,
mckenry
Starters
Making a starter is as simple as making a certain amount of 1.040 wort, using a kit or dry malt extract and optionally, a hop pellet. 1.040 is as simple as 100g DME in 1L of water. The wort is boiled for a short time to ensure sterility, then an amount of yeast is added once cooled. The starter can be shaken vigorously to ensure aeration and suspension of yeast which helps growth, or it can be left, or it can be placed on a stirplate for the more advanced yeast junkies. Once the fermentation is complete in the starter or it is at high krausen (big fluffy white head), the starter is added to the full wort batch, optionally decanting the "beer" on top of the yeast and only pitching the yeasty portion. For ales, a 500mL to 1L starter is recommended, for cold-pitched lagers, anywhere from 1.5L to 4L.
For an excellent guide to making starters with pictures, see Batz's technique for starting Wyeast
Below is an extract out of the yeast topic
[topic="0"]http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=20[/topic]
I read the 9 pages of Batz's technique also - which is mostly about stepping up, to then store for later use.
I just need a clarification on something I plan to do with Liquid Ale yeast. I cant find any thread that answers this directly.
I am making a double batch (about 42L expected) and have 1 wyeast smack pack. If everyone makes a single 1.040 starter, up to roughly 1.5L (made up of 1L water, 100g DME & 125mL wyeast) for a 22ish L batch, do I need to make the starter up to 2.5L -3L to double the cell count? I assume this just means adding another 100g DME 1L water mix when the first starter is at high krausen?
This is where I am confused: When it says below "optionally decanting the "beer" on top of the yeast and only pitching the yeasty portion" does this mean the starter has completely finished and the yeast has caked on the bottom? (but the quote says once it is complete or at high krausen) I thought it was best to pitch when the starter is high krausen, which would mean the yeast wouldnt have settled out yet? Or does it settle even though it is at high krausen?
Also, if I plan to store yeast for later use, instead of using stubbies, which will take up too much fridge space for me, can I completely ferment out the starter, pour off the 'beer' leaving only the smallest amount of liquid, stir the yeast into suspension and pour into my small sample jars which are about 100mL I think? This would leave me a greater yeast:beer ratio in storage than if I use Batz's method of pouring into stubbies without decanting.
I hope someone can make sense of what I am asking and can answer this :lol:
Thanks,
mckenry
Starters
Making a starter is as simple as making a certain amount of 1.040 wort, using a kit or dry malt extract and optionally, a hop pellet. 1.040 is as simple as 100g DME in 1L of water. The wort is boiled for a short time to ensure sterility, then an amount of yeast is added once cooled. The starter can be shaken vigorously to ensure aeration and suspension of yeast which helps growth, or it can be left, or it can be placed on a stirplate for the more advanced yeast junkies. Once the fermentation is complete in the starter or it is at high krausen (big fluffy white head), the starter is added to the full wort batch, optionally decanting the "beer" on top of the yeast and only pitching the yeasty portion. For ales, a 500mL to 1L starter is recommended, for cold-pitched lagers, anywhere from 1.5L to 4L.
For an excellent guide to making starters with pictures, see Batz's technique for starting Wyeast