Show Me Your Sparge Arm

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Back Yard Brewer

I HAVE A WIFE THAT UNDERSTANDS
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Without searching the hole forum can anyone link me to some photo's or post some photo's of their sparge arm set-up. I am currently modifying a 50 ltr beer keg and am looking at ways to install a sparge. I am able to Tig weld fittings to the keg if need be.

Cheers BYB
 
Hi mate.

What sort of system are you trying to make it suit? (ie. 3 tier, 2 tier, single tier, recirculating system or not). Do you want it to work with a lid on or just have the top open and your sparge assembly drop in the top?

They really don't have to be complicated at all, just a means to trasfer water onto the top of the grain bed. My old sparge system was a circular manifold of copper with holes drilled in it and sat directly on the grain bed. You don't have to worry about gently distributing water onto the whole grain bed, even less if you maintain an inch or so of water above the grain bed as the resting water distributes the fresh sparge water on its own.

Personally I wouldn't worry about any dripping action type sparge arm as it just cools your sparge water IMO for no gain. I just lay my hose straight on the grain bed now as I'm batch sparging but even if I was fly I'd look for an easy option.

If you can describe your intended use in your system I can come up with plenty of ideas as I'm sure many can. Lets see what you had in mind.

Cheers, Justin
 
It sounds like you must be setting up for fly sparging otherwise it does not matter for batch sparging.
This is my set-up, nice and simple!

View attachment photo_tour.pdf

Steve
 
here is mine

Its adjustable so i can lower the return just below the top of the mash to reduce risk of oxidising it and it flows the return wort in an upwards direstion to prevent disturbing the mash

cheers

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...si&img=1112

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...si&img=1077

as you can see from the pics in the links to the gallery, i have put a foam lined SS lit on it. It simply has a hole in the miggle and the sparge arm slides up and down inside it.

works tops

recirc_arm__Large_.JPG


recirc_top_1__Large_.JPG


recirc_top_2__Large_.JPG
 
I've used a few configs over the years but happiest with this current set up.

spargearm.jpg
 
Like Justin said just keep it simple, you recirculate/sparge so slowly it isnt necessary to have multiple returns. I ended up going from a ring return manifold to this, it is also heaps easier to rinse.

It returns just below the water line, adjustable up and down and you can see when the mash is running clear.

IMG_1153.jpg
 
Hey Devo, Jye and Tony, do you guys have a extra pump to fly spage and run off at the same time?
 
Batch sparge here, I pump to recirculate and then pump into the kettle.
 
Batch sparge here, I pump to recirculate and then pump into the kettle.
WOW, makes mine look pretty dodge! :(
 
It sounds like you must be setting up for fly sparging otherwise it does not matter for batch sparging.
This is my set-up, nice and simple!

View attachment 14158

Steve

I would be concerned about HSA with your return Steve... but thats only if you believe in it :lol: :ph34r:
 
Hey Devo, Jye and Tony, do you guys have a extra pump to fly spage and run off at the same time?


I use the 1 pump to move the liquor from the HLT to the Tun and rely on gravity for the wort run off into the kettle.
 
I would be concerned about HSA with your return Steve... but thats only if you believe in it

I used to be concerned about HSA until I observed Potters Brewery in action. They power spray there water into the tun from about 4 foot. When questioned them about HSA I was looked at quite odd and told that it would be more of a concern after the boil. With my system when its full of grain its only falling about 10 or 20mm with a small batch. But its food for thought <_<

Steve
 
Batch sparge here, I pump to recirculate and then pump into the kettle.

same here

I actually use the sparge arm to ricirculate the wort to clear it and when i pump the batch sparge water in i underlet it. It sturs up through the grain and helps with that HSA fear again by pushing any air out from below. too easy


I used to be concerned about HSA until I observed Potters Brewery in action. They power spray there water into the tun from about 4 foot. When questioned them about HSA I was looked at quite odd and told that it would be more of a concern after the boil. With my system when its full of grain its only falling about 10 or 20mm with a small batch. But its food for thought <_<

Steve

spraying the water in is a bit different to spraying the wort but im no expert. I dont even know if HSA exists but no harm in preventing it if it does. Potters wouldnt be too worried about it anyway, their beer disapears into thirsty punters tummies faster than it can affect the beer.

cheers
 
Thanks for the reply's. There is some serious s%*t happening out there with AG set-ups. Downloaded that PDF can't remember whose it was but it looked the goods. Come to think of it I have a picture saved of it and I have based my design around it. I intend in the short term just having two hoses, one in and one out and just change their functions as required by adapting snaplocks.will be using 1" thick aero flex for insulation. Also Tony's looks interesting. To answer some questions, I am designing a basic single tier set-up using a march pump bought through this forum. I have done a couple basic AG brews and have found batch sparging to my liking. If I venture into the fly I will have to rely on gravity. Anyway I had better duck off and start tigging. :beer:


BYB...

IMGP1608.JPG
 
Nice and shiny Zwickel, like the pics in the PDF my only concern would be needing to clean the fermenter twice although I guess on the first pass you wouldn't have to be too thorough since you would be boiling after that.

Will have to think on that one a bit, I am going to build a new rig soon so its food for thought.
 
.my only concern would be needing to clean the fermenter twice ...

No, no, not at all.
When I start to brew, anyway everything has to be clean.
The first contact of the wort with the fermenter will be at around 78C (mashout), so nothing may happen.
The time between empty the fermenter and fill it again will be around 2 hours (boiling the hops).
After the wort is chilled you may pitch the yeast immediately.

I never had any problem.
 
Thanks for the reply's. There is some serious s%*t happening out there with AG set-ups. Downloaded that PDF can't remember whose it was but it looked the goods. Come to think of it I have a picture saved of it and I have based my design around it. I intend in the short term just having two hoses, one in and one out and just change their functions as required by adapting snaplocks.will be using 1" thick aero flex for insulation. Also Tony's looks interesting. To answer some questions, I am designing a basic single tier set-up using a march pump bought through this forum. I have done a couple basic AG brews and have found batch sparging to my liking. If I venture into the fly I will have to rely on gravity. Anyway I had better duck off and start tigging. :beer:
BYB...


I've tried both batch and fly but found that I got better efficiency from fly sparging.

btw nice rig.
 

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