Secondary Ferment Or Bottle Esb Little Creatures?

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Yeastie Beastie

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I have an ESB Little Creatures (5 Ltr liquid etc) in the fermenter now.
Day 1: 1040
Day 2: 1030
Day 3: 1020
Day 4: 1020
Day 5: 1020

Should I?
a) Put into a secondary fermenter
B) Bottle.
 
Secondary fermenter!

Care to share the reciepe? I've only recently discovered LCPA (thanks to comments on AHB) and would love to whip up a batch!
 
Secondary fermenter!

Care to share the reciepe? I've only recently discovered LCPA (thanks to comments on AHB) and would love to whip up a batch!


http://www.esbeer.com.au/category17_1.htm

As simple as this....no recipe...someone else did all the work for us.

I did the Bee Neez a while back and it was beautiful...Hence me going back to try another...

I do AG now but love to do the odd easy beer as I work long hours and lack the time...still need advise on the easy stuff too though.
 
Any experienced brewers here want to share some advice?

Do I secondary ferment?

If so, for how long? 2 weeks?

What are the advantages instead of bottling?

Need some advice....

Thanks.
 
From 1040 to 1020 is not great attenuation, especially in a pre-made goo kit, and after five days I would suggest that you be patient, lest you have bottle bombs down the track (to clarify, it might keep fermenting in the bottle, without an opportunity to purge Co2). You can rack the wort to a secondary fermenter, but what are you trying to achieve by doing so ? It will stir things up, and unless you're well-versed in the process you will introduce a greater potential for infection risk - but you could just as soon give your barrel a good shake, place it somewhere that's slightly warmer, and see what happens.

Great that you are taking hydro readings, though. You say you do AG beer. Would you bottle one that went from 1040 to 1020 ?
 
What sort of kit is this? Is this an all in one kit that you add water to, in your fermenter?

Fear_n_Loath
 
From 1040 to 1020 is not great attenuation, especially in a pre-made goo kit, and after five days I would suggest that you be patient, lest you have bottle bombs down the track (to clarify, it might keep fermenting in the bottle, without an opportunity to purge Co2). You can rack the wort to a secondary fermenter, but what are you trying to achieve by doing so ? It will stir things up, and unless you're well-versed in the process you will introduce a greater potential for infection risk - but you could just as soon give your barrel a good shake, place it somewhere that's slightly warmer, and see what happens.

Great that you are taking hydro readings, though. You say you do AG beer. Would you bottle one that went from 1040 to 1020 ?

No, I definately would not bottle this with AG, NO WAY!!!
This is the simple advice I was after, CHEERS.

Racking to a secondary is new to me, want to know what the benefits are.
 
A FG of 1020 sounds high. However, what yeast did you use?

I have a some silver satchels of "Premium Ale Yeast" from a mate that are guaranteed to finish at 1020 from my experience - 3 times in a row. When I brew the same wort with Wyeast 1099 or even a Kit satchel yeast it will finish at 1008 to 1010. In my opinoin the resulting beer is much better with a FG of 1010 in this case, so I will not use the silver satchels again.

Unfortunately I do not know what the yeast in the satchels are, but they have low attenuation.

Fear_n_Loath
 
I'm actually drinking a glass of this as I type. Brewed as per instructions with supplied Safale yeast. It's 6 weeks old now and drinking very nicely indeed.

To OP, FG gravity on mine was around 1014 for this brew. I bottled with only 1 carbonation drop instead of 2 as recommended and I really can't notice the difference.
 
A FG of 1020 sounds high. However, what yeast did you use?

I have a some silver satchels of "Premium Ale Yeast" from a mate that are guaranteed to finish at 1020 from my experience - 3 times in a row. When I brew the same wort with Wyeast 1099 or even a Kit satchel yeast it will finish at 1008 to 1010. In my opinoin the resulting beer is much better with a FG of 1010 in this case, so I will not use the silver satchels again.

Unfortunately I do not know what the yeast in the satchels are, but they have low attenuation.

Fear_n_Loath

Yeast is Safale US-05
 
I'm actually drinking a glass of this as I type. Brewed as per instructions with supplied Safale yeast. It's 6 weeks old now and drinking very nicely indeed.

To OP, FG gravity on mine was around 1014 for this brew. I bottled with only 1 carbonation drop instead of 2 as recommended and I really can't notice the difference.

1 carb drop...Longnecks?
You say 6 weeks old? How long in ferm and how long in bottle?
 
Thanks for the feed back on the yeast.

Where is this yeast best used?. Because I have a couple of satchels of it left, but did not like the high attenuation of the ales that I made with it?

Fear_n_Loath
 
I have an ESB Little Creatures (5 Ltr liquid etc) in the fermenter now.
Day 1: 1040
Day 2: 1030
Day 3: 1020
Day 4: 1020
Day 5: 1020

Should I?
a) Put into a secondary fermenter
B) Bottle.

I would not bottle with that grav reading,, i have done a few of these kits and all mine have have had a FG of 1013.. Dont bottle unless you like picking up glass :) Cant see the point in secondry fementing a FWK either ? Just let it hang there for a while longer, maybe sneek the temp up a couple of deg.

Cheers
 
YW,

I bottled (long necks) after 1 week, temp was around 22 degrees most of the time and fermentation pretty well stopped after 5 days. Time in bottle now is 6 weeks. Pretty sure the yeast was the s05 one that I picked up at Peakhurst shop.

For my next one I'll add one of the 200gr packs of cracked amber malt to see what difference it makes.


Cheers.
 
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