Rookie Wannabe

[ScottyCags]

Hi all,

Very much a rookie looking to learn the art of making quality craft beer. Have made some extract brews a few years ago but haven’t done it for a while due to work. Now looking to step it up and get into the all grain brewing and learn through trial and error with small batch brewing and really learn the flavours of different malts, hops and yeasts.

I’m waiting to start a Botanicale Pale Ale but need to get a heat belt. Not something I thought I would need in summer but the weather in Victoria is ridiculous at the moment.

I look forward to learning from everyone and hope I can find a few answers to some of my questions. One of which is wondering if anyone experiences issues running a heat belt power cord through the fridge seal to the ink bird?

Happy brewing!

 

[S.E]

Hi all,

Very much a rookie looking to learn the art of making quality craft beer. Have made some extract brews a few years ago but haven’t done it for a while due to work. Now looking to step it up and get into the all grain brewing and learn through trial and error with small batch brewing and really learn the flavours of different malts, hops and yeasts.

I’m waiting to start a Botanicale Pale Ale but need to get a heat belt. Not something I thought I would need in summer but the weather in Victoria is ridiculous at the moment.

I look forward to learning from everyone and hope I can find a few answers to some of my questions. One of which is wondering if anyone experiences issues running a heat belt power cord through the fridge seal to the ink bird?

Happy brewing!

I doubt you need a heat belt at the moment what is ambient temp in your brewery or brew fridge?

I prefer a reptile heat lamp in the fridge if temps really drop but most of the time and as MHB often points out a small fan will act as a small heater in a fridge and also keeps a more even temp between top and bottom of the fridge.

 

[ScottyCags]

I doubt you need a heat belt at the moment what is ambient temp in your brewery or brew fridge?

I prefer a reptile heat lamp in the fridge if temps really drop but most of the time and as MHB often points out a small fan will act as a small heater in a fridge and also keeps a more even temp between top and bottom of the fridge.

Thanks for the reply S.E. I had the air tested in the fridge yesterday and was 17deg. I want to keep the temp between 19-25deg. The light sounds effective. I’ll give that a look. I’m trying to understand the pros and cons of various options.

 

[S.E]

Thanks for the reply S.E. I had the air tested in the fridge yesterday and was 17deg. I want to keep the temp between 19-25deg.

Remember that the heat generated from fermentation will raise the internal temp of your fermenter and fridge so if its 17c now it will probably be within 19-25 without a heater.

 

[ScottyCags]

Remember that the heat generated from fermentation will raise the internal temp of your fermenter and fridge so if it’s 17c now it will probably be within 19-25 without a heater.

When you do need powered heat in a fridge though, I’m does the power cord running through the door cause an issue?

 

[S.E]

When you do need powered heat in a fridge though, I’m does the power cord running through the door cause an issue?

I rarely need use powered heat, maybe 2-4 weeks in the winter. When I do I run the power cord near the bottom of the fridge and the seal molds around it.

 

[elmoMakesBeer]

When a fridge is running as a fridge (rather than a fermenter) in summer, it’s keeping the inside 20-30 or more degrees cooler than the ambient temperature. Good seals are important for that case. As a fermentation chamber the target temperature for an ale is usually within a few degrees of ambient. In winter in Victoria (and other cooler parts of the country) we do need heat, but nothing like that 20-30 deg differential a fridge is designed for. A good seal is better than a bad seal but for a few degrees over a week or two I do not stress about running a cord through the door. Push something up against the door if it doesn’t stay closed by itself. I used to ferment in winter with a heat belt in a cupboard. It worked. A fridge with a poor seal is much better than that.
Some people do put holes through the fridge walls or ceiling. It’s neat but in my opinion more effort that it’s worth for a fermentation chamber.

 

[ScottyCags]

I rarely need use powered heat, maybe 2-4 weeks in the winter. When I do I run the power cord near the bottom of the fridge and the seal molds around it.

Thanks for your help S.E

 

[TwoCrows]

I have been using one of these heaters in the fermenter fridge.

100W 12V DC PTC Fan Heater bought of ebay.

I wired up to an old computer power supply (230volt step down to 12volt) and plug it into the temp controller.
You only pass two wires into the fridge past the seal on the door. No worries with cooling.

 

[Drubbing]

I've used a heating pad in my fridge for years. I tried belts but they can get too hot, especially when I wasn't using a temp controller. The pad is very low power and does the job. The Inkbird switches the fridge/pad on and off as needed, and both just plug into it.

I've run the cords for controller and pad through the fridge seals for years, no problem. Drill through options or special wiring jobs are not necessary. If you're not a fixer/DIY dude, don't stress it.

Similar pad here Heat Pad - Discount Home Brew Supplies - Mangrove Jack's

 

[Malchizedec]

Depending on the average temp you could make a different yeast choice?

 

[Drubbing]

Thanks for the reply S.E. I had the air tested in the fridge yesterday and was 17deg. I want to keep the temp between 19-25deg. The light sounds effective. I’ll give that a look. I’m trying to understand the pros and cons of various options.

Fridge temp is not relevant. You need your temp controller probe taped to the fermenter. That is more accurate reading of the wort temp. An Inkbird or similar will keep the wort temp in a given range, and can adjust for any extra heat generated in the early ferment stages.

My controller tolerance is set to 1C either side. A heat pad is also connected to it, so hot and cold adjustments are made efficiently. An Inkbird is essential kit to brew consistently and at any time of year.

 

[Nick the Knife]

You can get reptile heat mats from Ebay for well under $20 delivered - very safe to use and within a fridge you won't need a very strong one to keep good temps, even in the middle of winter.

Here's just an example - have several of them and use for making yogurt etc - worked well for many years.

 

[livo]

I disagree with any claim that the temperature probe must be attached directly to the fermentation vessel. I use an STC1000 with the probe stuck to the side of the fridge wall with Bluetak and a temp variation setting of 0.5'C. I've watched it go through several cycles over a period of time this summer (using no heat source, just cooling) and it is cycling on and off frequently enough that the temperature of the FV, including the mass of 23 - 24 litres of liquid will remain within a much tighter temperature range, ie: negligible change. It is a thermal battery at that mass and the fridge is adequately keeping it within an acceptable range.

Yeast does not perform well in extreme temperatures outside recommendations, nor if there are radical changes, but it is quite tolerant to small and gradual variation. I'm brewing in a tin shed on a concrete slab floor. During summer, on average, I can get air temperatures up to 35'C during the day and down to 16'C at night. The concrete slab, on average, stays around 22'C and I can successfully brew with my FV's on the floor under a bench on the southern end (no direct sunlight on the iron wall). People used to brew quite successfully all summer in laundries under the concrete tubs or in the bathroom which was often the only room in older houses to have a concrete floor. My fridge stays within 0.5'C of set temperature 24 / 7, which is wonderful but not essential.

 

[Drubbing]

I disagree with any claim that the temperature probe must be attached directly to the fermentation vessel.

Disagree all you like, it works perfectly. Has done for years, so I offer advice based on this experience. Based on previous forums I've been on, brew tutorials and vids everyone is doing the same thing, regardless of whether they use Inkbirds or STCs.

Your method can work but will take much longer to get the 23l mass of liquid to the required temp, because you're measuring ambient fridge temp. The wort will get there eventually. But I fail to see why it's a better method that going off the wort temp directly.

 

[livo]

With no disrespect D, you're possibly talking about a few hours to stabilise to set fridge temp, unless you are calculating mixed heat exchange / volume formula, as you do when mashing grain / sparging etc. How do you compensate for heat rise, known or imagined, due to initial fermentation startup to arrive at a specific temperature of your FV before you put in in the fridge. Even assuming you could, after that it's the same either way, in my opinion.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with your "tried and true" method. If you've got the gear, use it and good luck to you. I'm just saying that for a beginner (which the OP clearly is), telling them that you need an Inkbird, and it has to be fastened to the FV is the last advice they need. Do you really think that having the probe on the vessel is going to change the fridge operation significantly enough to counteract the exothermic initiation of pitched yeast in a 23 litre container within a time frame that is even barely perceptible in the finished product? There are far more important things to worry about.

I have recently begun smoking brisket beef and short ribs (ala Texas BBQ) among other things. You can buy a $100 Inkbird with 4 probes from Bunnings or you can cook it with a single $12 meat probe from Spotlight to test every now and then. If you understand the cooking / smoking process, you can go without any probing. Guess what? You still get smoked meat.

 

[Drubbing]

With no disrespect D, you're possibly talking about a few hours to stabilise to set fridge temp, unless you are calculating mixed heat exchange / volume formula, as you do when mashing grain / sparging etc. How do you compensate for heat rise, known or imagined, due to initial fermentation startup to arrive at a specific temperature of your FV before you put in in the fridge. Even assuming you could, after that it's the same either way, in my opinion.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with your "tried and true" method. If you've got the gear, use it and good luck to you. I'm just saying that for a beginner (which the OP clearly is), telling them that you need an Inkbird, and it has to be fastened to the FV is the last advice they need. Do you really think that having the probe on the vessel is going to change the fridge operation significantly enough to counteract the exothermic initiation of pitched yeast in a 23 litre container within a time frame that is even barely perceptible in the finished product? There are far more important things to worry about.

I don't understand your first para or how it's relevant. Your second is condescending.

I put my wort in the fridge, set the temp, pitch yeast when appropriate. End of story. I've given clear simple advice, passed on from many brewers on forums over the years, and your responses muddy the waters.

Did you read OP first post? He has fridge and is talking about getting a heat belt. If he's doing that, he'll need to control the temp, otherwise how will the belt turn off when needed.

So the advice/opinion that an Inkbird is essential kit, is the right advice. Whether it's taken or not. I said nothing about where to stick the probe, you brought that up.

 

[livo]

"You need your temp control probe taped to the fermenter."?

I disagree for the reason already given.

 

[Nick the Knife]

Both ways will work - the probe on the fermenter is regarded as superior - this is pretty obvious. That said a thermowell or in fermenter monitor is regarded as superior to this.

Now that said @livo 's way is simpler, cheaper and can be done now - I'd hazard that it'd take nailing a LOT of the other variables for a new brewer to taste the difference between the two ways.

So it's really up to them which one to go with - but both have their pro's and con's.