Removing Inner Door Skin On Fridge

[cliffo]

Hi Guys,

I'm wanting to remove the inner door skin on my keg fridge and replace with a flat panel to increase available internal space.

Now I've previously done this with my fermenting fridge without any dramas as that one had numerous screws around the edge holding it to the door.

This fridge, however, has no screws, so I'm assuming it is merely glued to the fridge door.

Now if this is the case any ideas on the best/easiest way to remove it?

Just a tad worried that if I go in all guns blazing I'll not only remove the door skin but also the door insulation. If it matters the fridge is a Westinghouse RP252S:

http://www.westinghouse.com.au/product/display/model/RP252S

cheers,
cliffo

 

[vlbaby]

Hi Guys,

I'm wanting to remove the inner door skin on my keg fridge and replace with a flat panel to increase available internal space.

Now I've previously done this with my fermenting fridge without any dramas as that one had numerous screws around the edge holding it to the door.

This fridge, however, has no screws, so I'm assuming it is merely glued to the fridge door.

Now if this is the case any ideas on the best/easiest way to remove it?

Just a tad worried that if I go in all guns blazing I'll not only remove the door skin but also the door insulation. If it matters the fridge is a Westinghouse RP252S:

http://www.westinghouse.com.au/product/display/model/RP252S

cheers,
cliffo

I'd say your chances of somebody on this forum having the same model fridge as you would be really low. I have a westinghouse fridge about 3 years old and it has screws on the door panel.
I know what you are trying to do because i have done the same to my keg fridge which is, btw a different brand.
My advice to you would be just take your chances and rip it out. You can always replace insulation if it does come away from the door. Clarke rubber can sell you sheets of styrofoam etc if you need it.

I dont think you can too far wrong.


cheers

vl.

 

[Batz]

Get stuck into it!

Experience varies with the amount of equipment ruined.

Batz

 

[cliffo]

Well looks like I just get stuck in and rip the damn thing off

Might leave till end of the week and make it a project for my 2 weeks off work...nice!!! :super:

Thanks guys,
cliffo

 

[vlbaby]

Well looks like I just get stuck in and rip the damn thing off

Might leave till end of the week and make it a project for my 2 weeks off work...nice!!! :super:

Thanks guys,
cliffo

Geez, I hope it don't take the whole 2 weeks to rip it off.

 

[cliffo]

Well looks like I just get stuck in and rip the damn thing off

Might leave till end of the week and make it a project for my 2 weeks off work...nice!!! :super:

Thanks guys,
cliffo

Geez, I hope it don't take the whole 2 weeks to rip it off.

muhahaha lets hope not...but at least I'll have the time free just in case

 

[grabman]

Just finished doing the same to my keg fridge, I had the screws holding door skin in place.

Just a word of warning though, I came slightly unstuck with difference in thickness of new panel. It was about 2mm thicker and caused problems when closing the door. Just take care as not all doors are easily adjusted to cope with this difference.

Also due to age of fridge the seal was rock hard and had to be replaced.

All working now though, just cost more than I had hoped!

Grab

 

[doglet]

grabman - did you replace the seal yourself or get someone to do it for you? I've got a couple of fridges/freezers to do and am looking for a rough price guide.
Cheers

 

[poppa joe]

If the panel is glued...Steal the wifes hair dryer...(While she is out shopping)
LIGHTLY HEAT ...Part of liner where glued see if that will make it easier to remove..Being careful to to warp..if it is plastic..
Cheers
PJ

 

[cliffo]

Just finished doing the same to my keg fridge, I had the screws holding door skin in place.

Just a word of warning though, I came slightly unstuck with difference in thickness of new panel. It was about 2mm thicker and caused problems when closing the door. Just take care as not all doors are easily adjusted to cope with this difference.

Also due to age of fridge the seal was rock hard and had to be replaced.

All working now though, just cost more than I had hoped!

Grab

Had a similar problem on my fermenting fridge - replaced the door skin with a 3mm board and had a bit of a struggle re-attaching the seal - ended up sealing fine with some "encouragement".

cliffo

 

[grabman]

grabman - did you replace the seal yourself or get someone to do it for you? I've got a couple of fridges/freezers to do and am looking for a rough price guide.
Cheers

I got the seal from a mob called "Seal-a-fridge" and fitted it myself, new cost $60 and works like a charm.

I think they are all over Oz, seems to be a franchise setup.

Grabman

 

[cliffo]

OK...1st day of my hols so decided what better to do than rip the fridge door apart .

It was a complete mongrel to get the inner skin away from the main body of the door but with the help of the jigsaw (no plans to use the plastic skin again) I managed to cut into it to provide some good grab points and proceeded to rip it off.

It didn't take much of the insulation with it either so all was going well. Proceeded to cut the replacement panel to size (or near enough) and then used liquid nails to glue the panel to the door.

After about 3 hours I pick up the door to re-attach to the fridge and as would be my luck, the panel slid right away from the door.

After much swearing and mumbling decided to step away for a while and think it through but I've got nothing.

Can anyone reccommend a way I can get this panel to stay attached to the door or should i leave the liquid nails for longer before picking the door up? There are no screw holes on this fridge as the orignal moulding was glued on.

Desperate for ideas here guys...cheers cliffo

 

[Batz]

OK...1st day of my hols so decided what better to do than rip the fridge door apart .

It was a complete mongrel to get the inner skin away from the main body of the door but with the help of the jigsaw (no plans to use the plastic skin again) I managed to cut into it to provide some good grab points and proceeded to rip it off.

It didn't take much of the insulation with it either so all was going well. Proceeded to cut the replacement panel to size (or near enough) and then used liquid nails to glue the panel to the door.

After about 3 hours I pick up the door to re-attach to the fridge and as would be my luck, the panel slid right away from the door.

After much swearing and mumbling decided to step away for a while and think it through but I've got nothing.

Can anyone reccommend a way I can get this panel to stay attached to the door or should i leave the liquid nails for longer before picking the door up? There are no screw holes on this fridge as the orignal moulding was glued on.

Desperate for ideas here guys...cheers cliffo

What about a few self tappers or pop rivets cliffo

Batz

 

[grabman]

Just take care when screwing or riveting that the heads aren't under the door seal and protrude too much or the door may not close properly. THe extra thickness could affect the gap when door is closed.

Grab

 

[Darren]

Contact glue?

 

[Trough Lolly]

Bunnings sells contact laminex glue (from CSR I think) and it sticks sheets of stainless to walls (well it worked for my kitchen splashback)...sticks better than baby $hit to a blanket!

Cheers,
TL

 

[Barramundi]

use countersunk tech screws or self tappers to avoid fouling the door seal... although im suprised liquid nails didnt work...

 

[cliffo]

use countersunk tech screws or self tappers to avoid fouling the door seal... although im suprised liquid nails didnt work...

yeah thats the way I ended up going. couple of screw into a flat sheet of colourbond and its all in place - now there plenty of room inside for the kegs where i want them so i'm a happy camper