PH Mash Adjustments

[manticle]

Pickaxe - cheap option is pH paper. Strips will be sufficient for your purposes

 

[Pickaxe]

Thanks.

When entering readings into ez water calc, is it best to use mean readings?

 

[manticle]

You mean from your water company's published water profile?

 

[Pickaxe]

Sorry, yes, that's what I mean. I have my local water profile.

 

[manticle]

Yeah enter the mean values. They take samples over a period of time and even them out so best to go with that unless you have the means to analyse your water on brewday.

 

[Pickaxe]

Thanks again.
So, to summarise:
Focus on resultant mash ph, sparge ph
Water hardness & mineral and salts to build an overall profile
Adjust minimally and "suck it and see" results.

Is that the rough idea for noobs?

 

[manticle]

Sounds good to me.

 

[GalBrew]

I have just started to use 5.2. As yet I have not tasted a brew made with it but this is about as complicated as I wish to get on water chemistry.

Cheers.

I tried 5.2 stabiliser for a few brews and it destroyed my efficiency for some reason, I don't know why, down to around 40%. As soon as I stopped using it things went back to normal. Now I use the ez spreadsheet with the various salts to manage mash pH.

 

[bum]

That's weird. I gained a few points on lower OG beers when I started using it (no noticeable effect on higher OG ones). I just ran out on the last brew and don't intend to replace it. Will be interesting to see what difference I notice without it (if any).

 

[slash22000]

I've been thinking about trying that 5.2 Stabilizer stuff but Bru'n Water seems to think it's not a good idea?

Five Star 5.2 Stabilizer is indicated by its manufacturer to "lock in your mash and kettle water at a pH of 5.2 regardless of the starting pH of your water". Evidence by homebrewers indicates that this product does not produce a mash pH in the preferred room-temperature range of 5.3 to 5.5. That evidence shows this product does produce some pH moderation in waters with high Residual Alkalinity. However, the mash pH tends to center around 5.8 (room-temperature measurement). While 5.8 pH is acceptable, it is at the upper end of the desirable mashing range. The evidence also shows that in waters with low Residual Alkalinity, this product shows little effect on mash pH. Since Five Star 5.2 Stabilizer is a compound with high sodium content, its use will elevate the sodium concentration in the brewing water. High sodium content can be undesirable from a taste standpoint in beer. Proper alkalinity control of mashing and sparging water may produce more acceptable brewing results for most brewers than with the use of 5.2 Stabilizer.

From https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge

 

[GalBrew]

That's weird. I gained a few points on lower OG beers when I started using it (no noticeable effect on higher OG ones). I just ran out on the last brew and don't intend to replace it. Will be interesting to see what difference I notice without it (if any).

I agree, quite weird but stopped as soon as I didn't use it. Perhaps my water played some part? What type if water is 5.2 most suited to? I know it's a buffer but even so, will have limits to its buffering capacity??

 

[RelaxedBrewer]

I have recently been reading a bit about ph and water chemistry. I actually ordered some precision ph strips yesterday.

What I don't understand is, if my mash ph is a bit high, how do I work out what I should add and how much?
Can anyone explain it to me?

RB

 

[Pickaxe]

I have found my water profile, but it is lacking a reading for Calcium, Magnesium and Sodium. Does this mean they are not present?

I already see that my sulphate levels are down. According to Key concepts in water treatment, my CaCO3 is too high also when compared to Melbourne?

Seems like my malt profile with CaSO4 add to get desired PH is what i need?

Or do I need to write to my water supplier and identify Calcium, Magnesium & Sodium levels first?

 

[manticle]

I've been thinking about trying that 5.2 Stabilizer stuff but Bru'n Water seems to think it's not a good idea?



From https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge

Why don't you try it for yourself, with what you've read kept in your mind and critically evaluate the difference you perceive it makes to your brewing?

Reading is great and should be encouraged but don't rely on it exclusively.

 

[Pickaxe]

sorry paste didnt work.
Chloride 43
Sulfate 48
CaCO3 68
Calcium Magnesium & Sodium 0.

Mash PH is coming at about 5.8

 

[manticle]

Pickaxe - post your profile here and email the supplier to find out the rest, explaining why you want it.

 

[manticle]

Relaxed - read my first post in the thread for an attempted simplification. What texts have you been reading?

 

[Pickaxe]

Thanks manticle, will email water supplier. Seems some of the things outlined in key concepts in water treatment.are happening to me. Lacking malt profile, shitty.hop bitterness not matching beersmith estimations. and not great hop flavour either. Temp, yeast control all accounted for.

Low calcium, alkalinity and low sulfate contributing. Does that sound ballpark?

 

[manticle]

Yep.

 

[mabrungard]

sorry paste didnt work.
Chloride 43
Sulfate 48
CaCO3 68
Calcium Magnesium & Sodium 0.

Mash PH is coming at about 5.8

It's unlikely that the calcium, magnesium, and sodium are all zero. They are the main cations (positively charged ions) in water and there is no way that you could have those concentrations of anions (negatively charged ions) without the cations. That is a problem with EZ Water, it doesn't provide the simple checking of the ion concentrations that you input and tell you if the ions are balanced. (yes, the cation and anion totals should be equal, aka: balance)

Its more likely that the water company does not analyze for those ions or they just haven't posted them. Calling the water company office and asking for the water lab may get you in contact with the person with the knowledge.