Other Yeasts For Cider?

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mb83

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Hi All,

My first cider is just about ready for bottling. Simple recipe with a mix of Apple and Apple/Pear juice (pres. free), yeast nutrient and US05.
The OG was 1.042 and it is now down to 1.002. The cider is VERY clean with just hint of apple in the after taste. It is also very dry.

What would be another good beer yeast (not wine, cider or champs) to use that might finish higher and sweeter?

Has anyone had any success with yeasts other than the Safale 04 and 05?

Cheers,

Michael
 
Hi All,

My first cider is just about ready for bottling. Simple recipe with a mix of Apple and Apple/Pear juice (pres. free), yeast nutrient and US05.
The OG was 1.042 and it is now down to 1.002. The cider is VERY clean with just hint of apple in the after taste. It is also very dry.

What would be another good beer yeast (not wine, cider or champs) to use that might finish higher and sweeter?

Has anyone had any success with yeasts other than the Safale 04 and 05?

Cheers,

Michael

Get a low-attenuation ale yeast like Windsor. Ive used this before, and it makes a much sweeter cider.
 
Anyone used Wyeast 1968? I'd think that would be a decent yeast to use as it notoriously under attenuates.
 
Anyone used Wyeast 1968? I'd think that would be a decent yeast to use as it notoriously under attenuates.

I see a couple potential problem with that yeast for a cider. Taken from product description at CB:
Diacetyl production is noticeable and a thorough rest is necessary. Yeast traps trub easily and autolysis during storage is accelaerated.

Diacetyl might not be so bad since you generally leave a cider longer than a beer anyway so it'll just be a temp issue for a few days, I suppose. But the autolysis might be a problem for the same reason?

[EDIT: I should point out I've never used this yeast]
 
Diacetyl might not be so bad since you generally leave a cider longer than a beer anyway so it'll just be a temp issue for a few days, I suppose. But the autolysis might be a problem for the same reason?

Hmm it shouldnt be mush an issue, diacetyl only occurs if the yeast floccs too early, which it may/can/will occur with 1968 as its a high flocc yeast. i havnt noticed any diacetyl in my ales made with this yeast as i ususally warm them up as they ferment out (my crawlspace where i ferment is usually 1-2deg lower than the laundry). a warmer finish will coax the yeast into cleaning up whatever they can, including diacetyl.
 
Like I say, not saying the diacetyl is a problem, more just something to think about. But I'm presuming that the autolysis might be a real problem since most ciders like to sit in the fermenter much longer than your average bitter (right?).
 
Like I say, not saying the diacetyl is a problem, more just something to think about. But I'm presuming that the autolysis might be a real problem since most ciders like to sit in the fermenter much longer than your average bitter (right?).

Yeah thats the case but as this yeast floccs really well post fermentation (it ends up looking like egg whites in soup :eek: ), i will have no issues racking off the yeast post fermentation to a secondary storage, leaving nothing but yeast and lees behind.

I guess there is only one way to find out :p. ive got 2 bitters or 1 bitter 1 scottish planned real soon, i'll reserve some trub and wash the yeast for a repitch into the cider. Any idea what the expected pitching rates are for ciders? equivilant to ales or moreso at lager rates due to the environment being totally different in ciders to beer?
 
i also used 05 for my first attempt at a cider.

It is very dry, and almost no apple flavour.

Would definitely not use this one again.
 
Any idea what the expected pitching rates are for ciders? equivilant to ales or moreso at lager rates due to the environment being totally different in ciders to beer?

To be honest I just pitch at ale rates but not basing that on anything. Had a quick look around for something more technical and couldn't find an answer but I did find some potential answers for the OP:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=34729
 
Like I say, not saying the diacetyl is a problem, more just something to think about. But I'm presuming that the autolysis might be a real problem since most ciders like to sit in the fermenter much longer than your average bitter (right?).

Diacetyl isn't going to be nearly as big a problem in a cider anyway - or might not be depending on what you want. I tasted some really good normandy ciders recently, most of which had a distinct diacetyl note to them - I ahve also noticed it a number of good French champagnes. It give a little butteriness to the ciders and adds to the body, allowing a really quite "dry" cider to not feel quite so thin and it softens out the mouhfeel leaving you with a silky finish.

NOTE - I have made precisely one, count em one - small batch of cider and I cried for help. So this info is just from good ciders I have tasted, not from any experience making the damn things.

I think I am going to try a re-cultured coopers yeast on my next cider ... just for giggles and the fruity profile.

Thirsty
 
The guy in JamesCraig's link used it if you wanna see his findings.
 
so you read the several cider posts and came to the conclusion that people have only used s04 and us05?

yeasts that have been mentioned as working: any liquid cider yeast, W4766, t58, Red Star Montrachet (yes ok its a fruit or grape yeast). dont know why your only wanting beer yeasts. if your going to make cider it is ok to buy a cider yeast, ok if your wanting to expeirment using beer yeasts. looks for ones with a fruity profile. I recon cal common might give an interesting flavour.
 
I think his conclusion is that cider and wine yeasts will ferment too dry for his liking. Looks like he's looking for a beer yeast that will be much less attenuating than those.
 
The guy in JamesCraig's link used it if you wanna see his findings.

I "think" he used a pack of coopers yeast - and I also think that the stuff in the pack is not the same stuff as in a bottle of Coopers.

So there is only one way to find out if its good ....

tally-ho
 
Ah, sorry for the potential bum-steer (so to speak).

Let us know!
 
I think his conclusion is that cider and wine yeasts will ferment too dry for his liking. Looks like he's looking for a beer yeast that will be much less attenuating than those.
ahhh fair enough. im probably just being a grumpy prick today

carry on in your quest for a non dry cider. although maybe read threads to get info on making sweeter ciders liike adding lactose etc etc
 
ahhh fair enough. im probably just being a grumpy prick today

carry on in your quest for a non dry cider. although maybe read threads to get info on making sweeter ciders liike adding lactose etc etc


Yeah, I am just looking for a less dry cider. The idea of adding lactose concerns me a little, in case I inadvertently give someone lactose-intolerant a bottle. Maybe I am just worrying too much.

Michael
 
Just remember in the same way I don't try and feed my coeliac mother a bottle of my homebrew.

Cider will tend to dry out. Don't blame the yeast entirely. There are ways around it but you may have to research and experiment. Try adding malt, try adding lactose, try upping the number of sweet based apples in the mix, try back sweetening, try kegging, try keeving etc etc.
 
I've picked up a couple types of Vinter's Harvest wine yeast from Brewcraft that are supposed to keep fruity/residual sugars. I got BV7 and MA33 to do some small batches to see what the results are like (there are some others that my be suitable). Currently fermenting with the BV7. I also got some apple schnapps essence to add at bottling to boost the apple flavour if needed. I'll update in a couple weeks when once fermentation is over
 

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