Old Fermenters Never Die...

[hughman666]

my AG rig has gone from a very basic BIAB setup through to what is now a 3 tier system. Up until this point I have been using the gas stovetop to heat up my stirke and batch sparge water in 2 x 15L SS pots.

Well the pots are starting to crack (I want my $10 back , damn you Red Dot ) and I'm keen to stop using the kitchen and ferrying boiling pots of water out to the back verandah - been burnt a couple of times...

A couple of weeks ago, I turned my attention to an old keg I had laying around, used my step drill and it all got too hard as I couldn't make a big enough hole for the kettle element (need a holesaw or similar). anyway i have this sitting in the shed awaiting completion as I want it to become a permanent part of my brewery.

so today i bought a new fermenter as i was retiring my old one, nothing wrong with it, i just wanted the 30L slimmer version which will fit in my soon-to-be-provisioned fermenting fridge (as soon as i buy a new fridge for the kitchen). within an hour i had drillled the appropriate size holes, made up some silicon seals and bunged the whole lot together. just gave it a test run, works a treat.

i'll probably get a mashmaster thermostat to automate the heating process at some point...

what do you guys think?

front view with element on left and temp gauge on right


inside showing element and temp probe


close up of element - no leaks


used a silicone seal on both sides for the temp gauge, again, no leaks...

 

[Doogiechap]

my AG rig has gone from a very basic BIAB setup through to what is now a 3 tier system. Up until this point I have been using the gas stovetop to heat up my stirke and batch sparge water in 2 x 15L SS pots.

Well the pots are starting to crack (I want my $10 back , damn you Red Dot ) and I'm keen to stop using the kitchen and ferrying boiling pots of water out to the back verandah - been burnt a couple of times...

A couple of weeks ago, I turned my attention to an old keg I had laying around, used my step drill and it all got too hard as I couldn't make a big enough hole for the kettle element (need a holesaw or similar). anyway i have this sitting in the shed awaiting completion as I want it to become a permanent part of my brewery.

so today i bought a new fermenter as i was retiring my old one, nothing wrong with it, i just wanted the 30L slimmer version which will fit in my soon-to-be-provisioned fermenting fridge (as soon as i buy a new fridge for the kitchen). within an hour i had drillled the appropriate size holes, made up some silicon seals and bunged the whole lot together. just gave it a test run, works a treat.

i'll probably get a mashmaster thermostat to automate the heating process at some point...

what do you guys think?

front view with element on left and temp gauge on right
View attachment 12775

inside showing element and temp probe
View attachment 12776

close up of element - no leaks
View attachment 12777

used a silicone seal on both sides for the temp gauge, again, no leaks...
View attachment 12778

Looks the goods bloke !
Just don't do what another member did the other day and leave the element running without water .
Feel free to PM me about dropping by to use my 20mm holesaw and drill for your keg (sorry I saw your request the other day and got sidetracked and forgot to respond, story of my life !)
Cheers
Doug

 

[randyrob]

go the bucket o' death!

was quite happy with mine until doogie champ made me an offer i couldn't refuse

Rob.

 

[TidalPete]

my AG rig has gone from a very basic BIAB setup through to what is now a 3 tier system. Up until this point I have been using the gas stovetop to heat up my stirke and batch sparge water in 2 x 15L SS pots.

Well the pots are starting to crack (I want my $10 back , damn you Red Dot) and I'm keen to stop using the kitchen and ferrying boiling pots of water out to the back verandah - been burnt a couple of times...

A couple of weeks ago, I turned my attention to an old keg I had laying around, used my step drill and it all got too hard as I couldn't make a big enough hole for the kettle element (need a holesaw or similar). anyway i have this sitting in the shed awaiting completion as I want it to become a permanent part of my brewery.

so today i bought a new fermenter as i was retiring my old one, nothing wrong with it, i just wanted the 30L slimmer version which will fit in my soon-to-be-provisioned fermenting fridge (as soon as i buy a new fridge for the kitchen). within an hour i had drillled the appropriate size holes, made up some silicon seals and bunged the whole lot together. just gave it a test run, works a treat.

i'll probably get a mashmaster thermostat to automate the heating process at some point...

what do you guys think?

front view with element on left and temp gauge on right
View attachment 12775

inside showing element and temp probe
View attachment 12776

close up of element - no leaks
View attachment 12777

used a silicone seal on both sides for the temp gauge, again, no leaks...
View attachment 12778

Umm, a good job done so far but I would have stuck with the keg myself & filed the hole out & kept that old fermenter for regular use but then I may be biased as I have one of those that is 12 or 13 years old which I still use all the time. :beerbang:

Too late now although so I reckon you just need lots of insulation (Including top & bottom) & then do a dry run to check your temps, etc before letting it loose on your system. If it is out over 2 deg c an hour dump it.

IMHO a cooler beats the above any day.
I will probably be corrected by my peers.

:beer:

 

[hughman666]

Umm, a good job done so far but I would have stuck with the keg myself & filed the hole out & kept that old fermenter for regular use but then I may be biased as I have one of those that is 12 or 13 years old which I still use all the time. :beerbang:

Too late now although so I reckon you just need lots of insulation (Including top & bottom) & then do a dry run to check your temps, etc before letting it loose on your system. If it is out over 2 deg c an hour dump it.

IMHO a cooler beats the above any day.
I will probably be corrected by my peers.

:beer:

this is just for heating up my strike and sparge water, i alraedy have a keep cold as my mash tun which loses nothing -> 0.5c over an hour whic is pretty good. basically, as soon as the water is at required temp, i'll be running it into the mash tun.

thanks for the feedback, let's see how the maiden voyage goes tomorrow

 

[DarkFaerytale]

will you be using a pump or anything like that to pipe the water into your mash tun? or just from a hight through the tap?

-Phill

 

[Wardhog]

I ferry hot water from the kitchen to the back yard too, and am looking for a better solution. This looks like a brilliant idea. Can someone who is an IT geek and handy as a solar-powered torch knock one of these up without too much hassle?

I have an old fermenter I could dedicate to the task, what other bits and pieces would I need?

 

[lucas]

wardhog, I might be able to help you out. I've got one that I've just pulled apart (the kettle element is going to be mounted in a stainless steel vessel ). I'd be happy to swap you my pre-drilled fermenter for yours, all you need is a cheap kettle from coles to pull apart

 

[jkeysers]

Nice setup!

On this topic, do old fermenters actually deteriorate to a point you can't use them anymore? My Nan recently moved our of her house of 50 years, and I found my late Pa's old fermenter. He's been dead nearly 20 years, plus he was ailing towards the end, so this thing has to be at least 30 years old. It's measured in gallons and the thermometer is measured in Farenheit. Tossing up whether or not to use it...

 

[Wardhog]

wardhog, I might be able to help you out. I've got one that I've just pulled apart (the kettle element is going to be mounted in a stainless steel vessel ). I'd be happy to swap you my pre-drilled fermenter for yours, all you need is a cheap kettle from coles to pull apart

Check your PMs. Sounds good, thanks.

 

[Josh]

wardhog, I might be able to help you out. I've got one that I've just pulled apart (the kettle element is going to be mounted in a stainless steel vessel ). I'd be happy to swap you my pre-drilled fermenter for yours, all you need is a cheap kettle from coles to pull apart

Is there anything I should be looking for in a kettle to fit this task? I am pretty keen to try the same thing out.

Is attaching the element to the fermenter an easy enough thing to do?

 

[lucas]

I think pretty much any cheap plastic kettle has basically the same configuration. if you pull the guts out of it you have an element, a silicon washer/gasket and the power socket/plastic backing bit.

Ideally you'd want a corded kettle that has a standard computer type lead, the one I got was a cordless kettle so although I can just plug a computer lead into it it doesnt have as nicer molding around the socket.

in terms of mounting it's as simple as making the right size hole for you element, either with a holesaw or if you're patient you could use a drill and round file. definitely do some tests with hot water in the HLT without power before use to make sure you dont have any leaks. from what I hear, food grade silicon can solve most problems. after I leak tested mine I actually left it boiling for about 30 minutes (while I kept right away from it) to make sure the plastic wasnt going to go soft and give way after extended use.

I'd say that a residual current device (RCD) is mandatory for a plastic HLT. You can get a cheap extension cord with one on the end from bunnings for about $12-15. in the event that something goes wrong an RCD will give you much better chances of escaping unscathed. personally I use mine with anything electrical that I use while brewing (pump/hlt) or outdoors (drilling random stuff), I feel much safer knowing there's an extra safe guard between me and death

 

[Barramundi]

I think pretty much any cheap plastic kettle has basically the same configuration. if you pull the guts out of it you have an element, a silicon washer/gasket and the power socket/plastic backing bit.

Ideally you'd want a corded kettle that has a standard computer type lead, the one I got was a cordless kettle so although I can just plug a computer lead into it it doesnt have as nicer molding around the socket.

in terms of mounting it's as simple as making the right size hole for you element, either with a holesaw or if you're patient you could use a drill and round file. definitely do some tests with hot water in the HLT without power before use to make sure you dont have any leaks. from what I hear, food grade silicon can solve most problems. after I leak tested mine I actually left it boiling for about 30 minutes (while I kept right away from it) to make sure the plastic wasnt going to go soft and give way after extended use.

I'd say that a residual current device (RCD) is mandatory for a plastic HLT. You can get a cheap extension cord with one on the end from bunnings for about $12-15. in the event that something goes wrong an RCD will give you much better chances of escaping unscathed. personally I use mine with anything electrical that I use while brewing (pump/hlt) or outdoors (drilling random stuff), I feel much safer knowing there's an extra safe guard between me and death

i knocked up one with two elements and they drew too much current for the 10 amp RCD box i have , kept tripping it , direct to the double plug power point and via the 20amp breaker not an issue , having said that your idea and the reasons for it are definetely warranted , i just need to up the cut out amperage on the RCD for my particular setup mind you my setup is in a Stainless steel pot so theres no risk of melting plastics ...

 

[hughman666]

will you be using a pump or anything like that to pipe the water into your mash tun? or just from a hight through the tap?

-Phill

i will eventually get a march pump when i get around to building a stand etc, but for the moment, this is how i'm doing it as there is a nice handy alcove in my carport:

 

[randyrob]

i will eventually get a march pump when i get around to building a stand etc, but for the moment, this is how i'm doing it as there is a nice handy alcove in my carport:

View attachment 12843

Hey mate,

i think you might need to put your 4 ring burner a little closer to the keggle otherwise you'll be getting some major black soot, give it a test run!

also some guys cut the lugs of the burners so you can fine adjust the gap between the keggle and the burner.

also how are you going to go from the keggle to the fermenter?

other than that looks good, gotto love the nappisan in the window and the old skool broom!


Rob.

 

[randyrob]

one other thing, did you get that keggle from devilsalterboy?

 

[hughman666]

Hey mate,

i think you might need to put your 4 ring burner a little closer to the keggle otherwise you'll be getting some major black soot, give it a test run!

also some guys cut the lugs of the burners so you can fine adjust the gap between the keggle and the burner.

also how are you going to go from the keggle to the fermenter?

other than that looks good, gotto love the nappisan in the window and the old skool broom!
Rob.

yeah i'm looking at getting the keg lower down. my old kettle sat on top of the burner lugs but this one's a little wider and doesn't quite fit. if i cut the lugs off, it wouldn't fit as it needs to. i'm going to try a couple of lengths of galv on bricks and then sit the keg on those, should be able to get the distance between kettle and burners minimised. my test run on saturday did produce a bit of soot, not as bad as i would have thought but still not ideal....

 

[DarkFaerytale]

i will eventually get a march pump when i get around to building a stand etc, but for the moment, this is how i'm doing it as there is a nice handy alcove in my carport:

View attachment 12843

cheers, i'm going to be doing almost the same setup but with a hand held element so good to know i'm not the only one who's making a fermenter into a HLT keep us updated with any problems please

cheers

-Phill