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Awsome thanks!
So fairly straight forward.. just follow the directions best you can? No need to worry about things ive heard or read, just go with the instructions?
Most on here would tell you to ignore the part of the instructions that relate to ferment temp. If you possibly can, try to keep your brew at between 18-20 degrees, 22 at a push. This will give you a much better beer than fermenting at 25C.
Good kit to start, be prepared to buy much more in the coming months, this hoppy IS addictive! :D
Important points for a good Homebrewed Beer
1. Sanitation
2. Sanitation
3. Temp Control
4. Sanitation
Get 3 of those right and you will have good drinkable beer, all 4 and you will have great drinkable beer.
Good Luck
Cheers
Nige
 
Just to make you more excited-
This arvo I had a munich lager made from a kit, from a first time brewer, first batch and it was very good. This fellow had no experience and no knowledge except for mates talk and what was on the can. To my surprise it was very good. He is not on AHB and seems not that enthusiastic about beer and yet still made a good home brew, a very drinkable quaffer.
Just do it.
Now! :beerbang:
Daz
 
well ive started!!
and was great fun i must admit.. i can see it being addicting!
And ive already learnt a couple things.
1. I dont need as much boiling water as said (2 ltrs) as im struggling to get the temps right down still.
2. Read the booklet dont just go with the dvd!! ( i forgot to attach the sediment thing behind the tap! as the dvd made no referance to it)

Ive sat ice on the lid at the moment and put a wet towl around and still havent got the temps down under 26... dont have a fan but might need to borrow one i think!!! grrr
 
well ive started!!
and was great fun i must admit.. i can see it being addicting!
And ive already learnt a couple things.
1. I dont need as much boiling water as said (2 ltrs) as im struggling to get the temps right down still.
2. Read the booklet dont just go with the dvd!! ( i forgot to attach the sediment thing behind the tap! as the dvd made no referance to it)

Ive sat ice on the lid at the moment and put a wet towl around and still havent got the temps down under 26... dont have a fan but might need to borrow one i think!!! grrr
I've been doing that for the past week. Chilled water round the side. temps at 26...
then one day I was too busy... temp went up to 30c. But that's cool, it's a Belgian.... they like the heat... I think, I hope.

Don't stress about the sediment thing we've all done it. A lesson learnt for next time.

And welcome to the obsession!
 
Im at work now so, apparently me alarm at home went off (lie) :p so had to race home ;) And i put a wet towl around it and replaced the ice on top trying to get the temps down... Its sitting at 26 before i did that. So interesting to see tonight when i get home if the towl made any differance...

Also may be a silly idea but if i want to increase the alchole content of my beer yet still make 23 ltrs could i just add another half bage of Brewing Sugar?
 
i forgot to attach the sediment thing behind the tap

I wouldn't worry about this at all. I don't use mine anymore as I found they slowed down bottling towards the end of the brew and didn't actually make all that much difference anyway.

On inreasing the strength, you can simply add more brewing sugar. However, it is recommended that you use a combination of light dried malt extract (LDME or simply 'malt') and dextrose. The reason for this is that sugars produce more alcohol, but thin out the body of the beer and provide no taste. Malt gives body and taste, and also alcohol. A kilo of malt and half a kilo of sugar will see you making a stronger, heartier beer with full flavour and the desired alcohol content. Malt costs more than sugar or dextrose, but is well worth the effort. A stock favourite ratio of mine is 500g LDME and 300g Dextrose. You will come to find your own preffered amounts over time.

Cheers - boingk
 
adz... I remember when I first started brewing, many moons ago I wondered the same thing so I rang the hotline on the can & the chap on the other end told me that if I add more than 2 kilos of sugar it will start to affect the taste. So I added the 2 kilos, and when the brew was ready I would get home from work, have a couple of longnecks & find myself in bed at a very early hour!! Be warned
 
Thanks for the replies...
Ill have to start getting my head around the terms soon! as i only know things buy looking at the Coppers section in my supermarket....
 
COOPERS ORIGINAL Lager
Dried Malt - Light 500g (1kg??)
Malto Dextrin 1kg

Will that combo work? And be a much stronger beer??
Or have i missed something? or misunderstood completly?

Thanks
 
and is it used the same as brewing sugar.. ie just tip into the heated coppers lager etc?
 
And if that is wrong can some one list product by product (what i ask for at the shop) for a VERY alcohlic beer....

Sorry for being a pain!!!
 
And if that is wrong can some one list product by product (what i ask for at the shop) for a VERY alcohlic beer....

Sorry for being a pain!!!
Have a look for the toucan (Two cans) thread.
My fave
Coopers Stout
Coopers Dark
500g Brown Sugar
both yeasts
make up to 23L (or 21L). This one made about 7%.

Make sure your fermenter is NOT on carpet, as I had it frothing out the airlock.
 
Alright adz (ADHD) I'll answer your question. Generally high alcohol or high ABV (Alcohol By Volume) beers are generally suited to bigger maltier hoppier beers so that the alcohol heat is nicely presented behind the malts and or hops (or both for that matter). It's balanced so that it is drinkable. Whacking up the ABV in a lager will merely destroy the lagers character even if it is a kit or a fake lager. There just isn't enough in the body in the beer to compliment a high ABV.

However if this is your mission and you really want to create a head banger beer just up the Dex or LDME overall to 2kgs max. I don't have beersmith on this 'puter but I am pretty sure that will get you the desired result. Don't go over board or you will end up with a cloying beer as the yeasties can only tollerate a certain amount of alcohol % before it's starts dying off. You might be alot better off if you tried this in a Coopers Stout kit?

Have a Blurry Blood Shot Eyed Christmas.

Chap Chap
 
cheers guys!
Promise thatll be the last stupid question for awhile! lol
 
cheers guys!
Promise thatll be the last stupid question for awhile! lol
But stupid questions keep us all amused :beer:

A few tips,
Google round for a Homebrew club in your area. Take along a bottle of your finest to the meet.
Have a look in the Kits/extract thread for the best recipe thread... I can't remember what it's called exactly, but there's some gems in there.
Experiment.
 
...and if you want REALLY high alcohol content, it's time to score yourself a stihl - looks like spirits are the direction for you!! (Can't get higher than 100% alcohol!!) :icon_cheers:
 
COOPERS ORIGINAL Lager
Dried Malt - Light 500g (1kg??)
Malto Dextrin 1kg

Will that combo work? And be a much stronger beer??
Or have i missed something? or misunderstood completly?

Thanks


A quick tip aaron, DON"T use 1kg of maltodextrin. It doesn't ferment.

If you want a stronger beer, I'd suggest the following:
Coopers Draught
500g Light Malt extract
1kg Cane sugar

I'd suggest it will taste better if you can get your hands on more yeast. Part of the reason coopers tins don't work well is because there isn't enough yeast to properly ferment them. You probably need about 12g or 2 coopers sachets to get through this properly...
 
well ive started!!
and was great fun i must admit.. i can see it being addicting!
And ive already learnt a couple things.
1. I dont need as much boiling water as said (2 ltrs) as im struggling to get the temps right down still.
2. Read the booklet dont just go with the dvd!! ( i forgot to attach the sediment thing behind the tap! as the dvd made no referance to it)

Ive sat ice on the lid at the moment and put a wet towl around and still havent got the temps down under 26... dont have a fan but might need to borrow one i think!!! grrr

Good Job! :beerbang:


It also helps to have a several litres of cold water handy. Just Put some in the fridge the day before and you should get to pitching temp easily.

I use 2 10L bottled water containers I bought from woolies.
 
COOPERS ORIGINAL Lager
Dried Malt - Light 500g (1kg??)
Malto Dextrin 1kg

Will that combo work? And be a much stronger beer??
Or have i missed something? or misunderstood completly?

Thanks

1 kg of maltodextrin is a lot. I believe it is fermentable in the realm of around 30% (which means 70% is unfermentable).

Think about what each ingredient does. Yes you want a strong beer (that recipe will actually give you a weak one) but you want a good tasting strong beer yes?
When sugar ferments it produces alcohol and carbon dioxide among other things.

Some unfermentable products provide other beer essentials like body and flavour. To get high alcohol beer is absolutely possibly but it's a good idea to balance it all out so it isn't just horrendous tasting rocket fuel.


In a nutshell: Malt is partially fermentable. The unfermentable parts will add to body, mouthfeel, head retention and flavour. The fermentable parts will add to alcohol.
Sugar is totally fermentable (whether dextrose or sucrose/table sugar). This will add nothing to body, head retention or mouthfeel (in fact it may detract from it) but will add alcohol. The amount of malt by weight required to give the same abv as sugar is more (I think about 25% more but I'm not completely cewrtain).
Maltodextrin, as I said before is mainly unfermentable and will add to body, mouthfeel and head retention but little to alcohol or flavour.

To get higher alcohol can be as simple as just adding more sugar but that can also give you a dry, thin, watery tasting brew. Also if the alcohol production gets too high and the yeast health or cell count is no good, the yeast will simply stop functioning.

There are several ways to beef up a kit.

1. Use less water - instead of 23 litres, make 18.
2. Add extra malt and dextrose. Try and balance it up so you avoid a thick overly sweet brew (too much malt) or a thin dry watery brew (too much dextrose)
3. As suggested above - do a toucan which is two kit tins made up to 23 litres.

If you beef it up a fair bit you will need extra yeast and you should make sure it's fresh.

Best to get the balance and techniques right first before playing around too much I think but if you're first doesn't work out as you idealised, don't give up - give it another go and learn from mistakes.

By the way - those sediment reducers are a waste of time and a pain in the arse. There are some really good techniques you can utilise to reduce sediment but those little bits of plastic are not part of any of them.
 
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