New To Grain

[yardy]

The four one I had OG of about 1048 and I added a bit of dextro to try to get the alchol up which has been down for 2-3 weeks and hasn't gone below 1035 and the mash temp for this one was 67 degrees I have used a lager yeast with this one and the brewing temp is about 12 degrees but am thinking that it should be finished or lower gravity then it is now.

Thanks Strubes

g'day strubes, as a few have said, prove that the hydrometer is spot on first, read your samples at room temp or whatever temp you choose but keep it consistent.

Is this still in the fermenter ?
I'd warm it up a little and the give the fermenter a bit of a swirl, up to you though if you want to wait it out, is there any sign of activity at all ?

any chance of posting your recipe, process, recirculation steps etc

nice system btw

cheers

Dave

 

[beerdrinkingbob]

I had similar results with a high mash temp, I finished off the brews with champagne yeast to get an extra 5 points.

Obviously it's easier just mash lower for longer and step it up a bit later in the mash for more body if you liked <_<

 

[pk.sax]

hmnn... my 1047 stovetop finished at 1010.. only 1 beer for experience but if 67-68 degrees is considered too high then. hmnnn.. my temp fluctuated through half the mash was 72 (gone up from 67) when I opened up to check half way and I stirred to beat it down. At least I know my mash wasn't perfect in sooo many ways but still no attenuation problem. US05 used, repitched.

 

[beerdrinkingbob]

I had similar results with a high mash temp, I finished off the brews with champagne yeast to get an extra 5 points.

Obviously it's easier just mash lower for longer and step it up a bit later in the mash for more body if you liked <_<

the brew i had the issue with I massed in a 70.5 and only droped to 69.2 over 90 minutes (went to get a pizza).

 

[theredone]

I had similar results with a high mash temp, I finished off the brews with champagne yeast to get an extra 5 points.

Obviously it's easier just mash lower for longer and step it up a bit later in the mash for more body if you liked <_<

hhhhmmm so its good to mash at 66 for say 40 mins then step it up to what? 70? for the last 20? this will improve beer?

 

[manticle]

You'll have to try for yourself.

You can start low (say 62-64) to get certain enzymes working (ones that make higher attenuating, drier beers) and ramp up high (say 68-70) to activate enzymes that leave a more dextrinous wort.

Personally I like the effect and you can play with mash times of either depending on what you prefer (more dryness versus more body). If you mash too low too long then you'll probably find no effect from the steps.

Research step mashing (braukaiser is probably a good place to start and Palmer discusses it also) to get a better understanding of enzymatic activity than my shitty explanation above. There's a few threads on here about it too so you can get other people's experiences of it.
Definitely more of a **** around than single infusion and only the brewer can decide if the difference is worth it. For me it is but only in certain beers. I wouldn't bother with 66 - 69 though. 63 for 20 then 68 or higher for 40 yes.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

Nice looking kit btw

Cheers

 

[np1962]

OK, out of left field here.
Nowhere in the OP did I see mention of a hydrometer, everyone is assuming that is what he uses.
What if he is using a refractometer to get his SG readings?
If this is the case and Strubes is not using an adjustment table for fermenting wort readings this could be giving him the high FG figure.
Just a thought. :icon_cheers:

Anyway Strubes, if you do give the game away just chuck that rig on The Ghan and I'll pick it up at this end.

Cheers
Nige

 

[stm]

Strubes: yeast health may be an issue. How is your yeast delivered to you? Eg, does it sit in your letterbox all day at Darwin temps?

 

[bradsbrew]

I reckon Nige might be onto something.

 

[strubes]

Thanks everyone,
I have a refractometer that measures Brix 32 and specific gravity which I have set with water to 0. The yeast I get from craftbrewer's and I buy the frozen blocks to try to keep it cool but when I get it here there just cool. so I think the yeast is still good. I have check the thermometers and they both seem ok but I will check them in boiling water to see. The last brew I used more grain about 1 kg but it still hasn't gone down below 1035. Volume wise on the HLT I have measurement written on the viewer. I do a ruff measurement when putting the water into the mashtun. does it matter about how much water goes in. I cube the wort after the boil and once cool pour it into the fermenter from my hip height, it then has heaps of bubbles on top, so I think its got enough air in it.. I have a mill master and have it set at 1200 (the little marks at the top) I have Mashed at between 67-70 degrees and sparging temps are around 76-80 degrees..

Hope this helps a little..

and for those are interested I will not give up I will just be buying beer for a while it took a lot of convincing the wife that I could/can save money making it then buying it just not yet....

Cheers Strubes

 

[manticle]

Mash lower. Your mash temps are on the very high end of the scale.

Mash the next one at 62 just to see if it makes a difference.

Could be: yeast issue leading to stalled ferment
Mash temp issue (why are you mashing at 70?)
Measuring instrument issue (aforementioned refractometer readings not being adjusted) - alcohol affects refrac readings and needs conversion.
Volume mismeasurement

Your OG looks fine - it's the FG that looks off. How do you know that your FG is final? Have you tried fast ferment tests on them? Maybe your yeast is just slow and needs love/racking/rousing etc.

Can you go, step by step, through your mashing and sparging process and then your fermentation process?

 

[thesunsettree]

ok so this is a real noodle scratcher... what about the ferement fridge temp gauge is it accurate?? maybe its reading higher than actual and the yeast is hiberanting at the lower temp and the wort is not reaching potential fg.... frigs me :lol: . i'm losing the battle on this one, but with such a fine set up we cant give up

cheers
matt

 

[manticle]

It's not really a noodle scratcher - there's loads of reasons why this could be happening and until we know every step of the process it's hard to fix. Am I the only one who thinks a 1048 start mashed at 70 could easily finish 1020-1025? Add in other potential factors and you have a recipe for poor attenuation.

We need recipes, full mash regime, step by step (including volumes and weights and ratios), yeast pitching rates and useby dates, whether you made active starters, lag times, ferment conditions and expected FG.

Then do a fast ferment test on your latest and see where it should finish.

Are you bottling or kegging? (sorry if I missed it) because I'm surprised that you accepted 1025 as your FG rather than questioning it earlier.

 

[Nick JD]

Am I the only one who thinks a 1048 start mashed at 70 could easily finish 1020-1025?

No, you're not.

 

[np1962]

Thanks everyone,
I have a refractometer that measures Brix 32 and specific gravity which I have set with water to 0.
Cheers Strubes

Geez Guys,
The answer is right here!
Strubes, you need to convert the Refractometer reading once you start fermenting.
The reading you see is only a true reading before you add yeast.
Once the wort starts fermenting you will need to adjust the reading to allow for alcohol in the beer.
My search skills are crap, hopefully someone can point to the chart that has been posted here before.
I reckon your beer is more alcoholic than you think.
Cheers
Nige

 

[manticle]

You are spot on Nige. That's why I wrote this "Measuring instrument issue (aforementioned refractometer readings not being adjusted) - alcohol affects refrac readings and needs conversion'' in my first post.

However the other points are still valid - in order to diagnose a problem fully, we need more info and mashing lagers at 67 -70 seems odd and will result in less attenuation than one might expect.

 

[np1962]

You are spot on Nige. That's why I wrote this "Measuring instrument issue (aforementioned refractometer readings not being adjusted) - alcohol affects refrac readings and needs conversion'' in my first post.

However the other points are still valid - in order to diagnose a problem fully, we need more info and mashing lagers at 67 -70 seems odd and will result in less attenuation than one might expect.

Agreed manticle, many of Strubes processes seem a little off but his worry is that his alcohol level is too low.
Have just done a rough work out using Beersmith, for an OG of 1.050 a reading of 8.75plato(1.035) gives an adjusted reading in a finished beer of 1.007. Fairly good attenuation there and a good alcohol level IMHO.
Cheers
Nige

 

[thesunsettree]

ok, so i'm pretty inexperienced, no doubt. i often mash between 65-68 and my fg within that range are regularly (with us05) around 1010-1012 at 18deg when started at 1052ish. which is why i struggle to understand that another 2 degs would add 13-15 points to his fg. i honestly dont mean to sound pompous but i cant put my finger on it, and the op has (as far as i know) informed us of most of his process, of course i'm happy to be corrected. if the variation is due to the refractometer ,then i'm out cos ,i've never used one, but with those numbers (compared to my process) doesnt make sense.... i am a dumb cnt i know, but i dont see the obviousness, but like i said....dumb

cheers
matt

 

[kelbygreen]

within 5 deg on a hydro is only like 1 point I think. but as said refracto's need adjusting once yeast is added. Best to stick to hydrometer readings threw fermentation