my mashtun

[smbjk]

Hi Guys

Stole this idea from a ahb member. thought it was a fantastic idea!!. insulated the inside with some kind of building foam I got from bunnings. Just had to build on for my self!!

 

[CrookedFingers]

Good work man, looks great !

CF

 

[thedragon]

Looks nice.

 

[mkstalen]

Schmick!

 

[Not For Horses]

Looks great!

I too like to let my mashtun play on the home made waterslide on a hot day.

 

[The Judge]

Super similar to mine!
<-- see profile pic

good job dude

 

[Beertard]

Very nice
what type of timber did you use?

 

[mofox1]

Very nice.

I plan to do this for my HLT & kettle (electric!), and eventually my mash tun when it gets an upgrade from esky form. I still need to work out exactly how to do this w/o grinding the handles off, and accomodating the element electrical boxes.

My best solution so far is cut-to-fit aluminum panels that go behind the wood cladding around whatever hole I need. Same for the front, but either in aluminium, copper or thin wood. SS is probably out of the question due to the amount of cutting involved.

All I got at the moment are ideas (plenty of them) and a couple of crappy pictures... well done on turning yours into some nice looking shiz. B)

BTW - does anyone bother putting wooden bases on these?

Mick

 

[The Judge]

To get the holes around the handles, valves, electrical boxes, etc you can just put metal strips on the back of the wood around the hole you made. That way the metal isn’t visible from the outside and it looks like nice holes cut into the wood panels – and all your wood panels are nicely secured. Just use small enough screws (sheet metal screws) so that they don’t come all the way through.

Also check out Clarke Rubber and get some of their PU foam which is rated for high temp use (used for under-bonnet stuff in cars) as your liner. It has foam on one side and foil on the other. That's what I did - worked like a gem.

I suppose wood on the bottom is overkill, but perhaps a rubber “placemat” style thing would be really helpful w.r.t insulation. The bottom is a huge conductor for heat to escape from, given it will be contacting the floor, bench, whatever.

 

[mofox1]

Thanks Putrino, I saw you pics go up a week or so after I had decided to do the wood cladding thing. I initially stumbled across this build and I knew I had to give it a shot.

To get the holes around the handles, valves, electrical boxes, etc you can just put metal strips on the back of the wood around the hole you made. That way the metal isn’t visible from the outside and it looks like nice holes cut into the wood panels – and all your wood panels are nicely secured. Just use small enough screws (sheet metal screws) so that they don’t come all the way through.

Fair enough - I had thought of using the same strips as for the banding, but figured they might flex too much (hence why I thought of using a aluminium cutout). Worth a re-think though, 'specially with the suggestion of the smaller screws. Might combine the ideas and do a cutout panel with small screws. h34r:

Also check out Clarke Rubber and get some of their PU foam which is rated for high temp use (used for under-bonnet stuff in cars) as your liner. It has foam on one side and foil on the other. That's what I did - worked like a gem.

Was going to get their "formshield" product (well, not theirs, but they stock it). Foil backed foam. BUT on re-read of specs, it's PE and is only rated to 80 C, will melt at 100C...

So now looks like I'll give the PU foam a go instead

Because I'm a lazy arsed bum and can't be bothered calling Clarke Rubber... how much was it? Metre width? The PE foam was about $30 per metre for metre width. Lucky for me my pots are just on 50cm high.

I suppose wood on the bottom is overkill, but perhaps a rubber “placemat” style thing would be really helpful w.r.t insulation. The bottom is a huge conductor for heat to escape from, given it will be contacting the floor, bench, whatever.

The 'lecky box for the elements will go fairly close to the bottom (duh), so there won't be much room to put a band around. That's the main reason, although If I put a couple of cross pieces in the base to leave some "hollow" sections, I can put any extra insul in there too. [Or maybe not... wood is a pretty good insulator. Stop making work for yerself!]

Mick

 

[smbjk]

Super similar to mine!
<-- see profile pic

good job dude

Hey fella, yours was what gave me the inspiration, as for the wood it was just pine but I mixed 1 part chocolate stain 4 parts funature oil. Thought the oil would help keep it good when cleaning. Anyway fun build. Will be finishing the false bottom which is the top of the keg and making a lid from ply and insulation cladded with same timber and a nice handle .

Putrino did you find a heat loss with no base insulation?

Thanks formthe comments guy's

 

[The Judge]

So now looks like I'll give the PU foam a go instead

Because I'm a lazy arsed bum and can't be bothered calling Clarke Rubber... how much was it? Metre width? The PE foam was about $30 per metre for metre width. Lucky for me my pots are just on 50cm high.

Jeez I can't remember... It was about $40 a meter I think, and they cut it off at the exact length that I needed it (so didn't have to buy extra length). I think I got around 1.4m or something.

Hey fella, yours was what gave me the inspiration, as for the wood it was just pine but I mixed 1 part chocolate stain 4 parts funature oil. Thought the oil would help keep it good when cleaning. Anyway fun build. Will be finishing the false bottom which is the top of the keg and making a lid from ply and insulation cladded with same timber and a nice handle .

Putrino did you find a heat loss with no base insulation?

I oiled mine too just with clear outdoor furniture oil (Tassie Oak from Bunnings). Basically keeps it clean and protects it. I can hose the whole thing down with no risk of the wood getting damaged.

Because the base of the keg sits off the ground I figured the buffer of air (and lack of any real convection underneath) probably does a reasonable job of insulating the bottom. I'm happy that the grain bed and air above the grain bed is insulated.
But in saying that, you just reminded me that I have some leftover PUF (the roll is about 1m wide and my keg is approx 65cm high), so I can make a circular cut-out to stick underneath for good measure ;-)

 

[Token]

That's your mash tun??? Fan-cy!!