My 2 probe STC 1000+ build.

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Mattrox said:
If I can solder in that resistor anyone can.


Which has me thinking. If anyone else wants to make a 2 probe version, I had to buy 200 SMD resistors and 10x 3 pole terminals. I can mail out a few SMD resistors and a 3 pole terminal if others want to have a crack at it.
What do they cost vs postage?

I'd be keen... although also have to get some more temp probes. Presumably they are available from ebay/aliexpress?
 
mofox1 said:
What do they cost vs postage?

I'd be keen... although also have to get some more temp probes. Presumably they are available from ebay/aliexpress?
It was a couple bux for each 200 SMD and 10 3pole terminals.

I have 1 spare probe I could send. It would be quicker than waiting for eBay postage.
 
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I used larger jacks for the temperature probes than my non 1000+ thermostat as the tiny one made a flimsy connection.

This shows the led in action saying that the relay should have switched.

The power sockets have their own lights to show they are live.
 
Crusty said:
Looking Smick buddy.
We'll done.
Thanks.

I did graunch up the box making the holes. I won't blame the tools. I am not skilled enough to use dremel bits on a normal drill. I haven't got around to getting the dremel yet. I have to make my purchases in small amounts, :p
 
I've put on a brew.

It is pulling the temperature down to 18 degrees.

Temperature probe 1 reading the fermentation temperature.
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The red dot below 'set' means a fermentation profile is running.


Temperature probe 2 is measuring the fridge air temperature.
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The dot between the 1 and 7 means probe 2 is being displayed.

I've set the temperature difference between wort and fridge air to be 12 degrees. If the difference is greater the cooling cuts out to prevent overshooting the set point. I'll have to work out what the best setting for my fridge is, so I'll monitor this closely.

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Today was 39+ here and the temperature difference between the wort and fridge never was greater than a 6 degree difference a lot of the time it was only 2 or 3 degrees lower in the fridge. I missed the temperature bottoming out, but I did observe the temp at 18.5 and fridge at 19.3 with the fridge about to kick in again.

I think the hot day meant the fridge temp could not shoot down quickly. The 2nd probe didn't need to cut out the fridge. It was really good being able to check the fridge temperature too.

So far so good. I like the 2nd temperature reading a lot. It is well worth doing, even if you go the 'normal' resistor route.
 
Fermentation has kicked off so now the brew is producing its own heat.

I caught the fridge in a cooling cycle where the fridge temperature was below the brew temperature.

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It actually doesn't look like there is much over shoot.

I'll tighten the 'hy2' value to 8 degrees. I think I'll make the temperature set point 17.8 deg and leave the 'hy1' at 0.5 degrees. This should result in a median temp of 18 degrees.


I'm looking forward to brewing in winter to see how it goes with a heater.
 
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I have ordered this so I can mount it safely inside the fridge. I have done a temporary installation to make sure it will work and it does.

I am confident that it runs the profiles as it should that I'm happy to forgo the display outside the fridge.

I now avoid temperature probe cables and a heater cord disrupting the fridge seal.

I'll take photos when it's done.
 
It has been assimilated.

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I got a 25W ceramic heat lamp as a heat source, but the fitting is dodgy as. I got the fitting of eBay from a seller with an Aussie flag. The plug says 240V but it's an American style plug. It also has no earth and all the external surfaces are metal. I won't be running it until I'm sure it can be made safe. There is a point I can earth so it won't be too hard. Anyway.

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