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May is Mild Month

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manticle said:
I think there is something else going on in Lukasfab's mild. have you entirely ruled out infection Lukas - can strip malt and hop flavour with things like lacto (some yeasts can too - I've never used the dry yeast you have used).
Also thought it may be an issue with whatever and where ever the temp is being measured. Could be a calibration or placement issue?

Cheers
 
Byran said:
Oh? I thought the beta amylase was only active between 52 and 67 deg C?
Various enzymes are active between a quite a large temperature range including both amylases but they have optimal temperature ranges at which they are favoured. They also have optimal pH and other conditions but temperature when hydrated is the most important as far as I understand. Alpha will work at 60 and beta at 70 but beta will be favoured at 60 and alpha at 70 (if that makes sense).

Given that alpha makes longer chains and beta shorter, beta can continue to chop up the chains that alpha has already had a crack at. Give it time and it can reduce that stuff down.

As far as I understand amylase conversion can happen in 20 degrees (for example) if the malt is hydrated - it's just a very slow process and that temp may favour other enzymes (and likely microflora) so their effects will make themselves known much more quickly.

@bradsbrew - true.
 
manticle said:
Various enzymes are active between a quite a large temperature range including both amylases but they have optimal temperature ranges at which they are favoured. They also have optimal pH and other conditions but temperature when hydrated is the most important as far as I understand. Alpha will work at 60 and beta at 70 but beta will be favoured at 60 and alpha at 70 (if that makes sense).

Given that alpha makes longer chains and beta shorter, beta can continue to chop up the chains that alpha has already had a crack at. Give it time and it can reduce that stuff down.

As far as I understand amylase conversion can happen in 20 degrees (for example) if the malt is hydrated - it's just a very slow process and that temp may favour other enzymes (and likely microflora) so their effects will make themselves known much more quickly.

@bradsbrew - true.
Good to know mate! So I guess doing overnight mashes could be a cause of watery thin beers then? I always try to step my mashes but I think ill try a true to style mild with a high temp short mash to see what all the fuss is about. :beerbang:
 
Never done a Mild.. So Im going to make Manticles Mild. I have a Wyeast 1098 yeast cake OR, shall I buy some 1469 ?
 
1469 if you can get it seems to be the go and tastes great. I've never tried 1098 so can't comment on that yeast.
 
I've used 1099 and it was tasty. 1098 is supposedly equivalent to the dried version of 1099 (also SO4 as far as I know - whitbread dry).

However 1469 is definitely my pick of the bunch. Try it with both if you want to really know.
 
Hey Manticle,

The recipe for your dark mild seems to be missing from the recipe DB and i cant find an original full version of it. Not sure if your keeping a bit of a patent on it, but if you dont mind could you post the full recipe or link me to where i can find it boil size, efficiency, hop schedule etc

Mitch.
 
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69618-recipedb-dark-mild/?hl=%2Bdark+%2Bmild


The discussion thread is more important because it lists the actual recipe and the mash schedule. If the hop schedule isn't in my opening post, it's further down the page but for the record it's 18g 6.5% challenger@60 and 10G at 10, no chilled with no adjustments made.

Final volume is 18 L, I start with about 26 L.

I mash in with 2.5 L per kg, lose about 2-3 litres in the tun and batch sparge to pick up the remaining liquor. Pretty bang on 70% mash efficiency every time which is the only efficiency I measure.

Looks like the db still needs some work.
 
Thanks for the input.
Decided on 1469, changed the hop bill to:

Fuggles 5 AA @ 60min
Styrians 4.1 AA @ 20min

Total IBU 19

Cheers Guys
 
I think I have got the adjustments pretty close for my system. Will be ordering and putting this down for my next brew or possibly 2 brews.


Dark Mild
Mild

My attempt at adjusting Manticles recipe to work with my BIAB system.

Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 25.0
Total Grain (kg): 5.460
Total Hops (g): 39.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.044 (°P): 11.0
Final Gravity (FG): 1.015 (°P): 3.8
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 3.75 %
Colour (SRM): 19.4 (EBC): 38.2
Bitterness (IBU): 25.3 (Average - No Chill Adjusted)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 65
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
4.500 kg Simpsons Maris Otter Malt (82.42%)
0.350 kg Simpsons Heritage Crystal 70-80L (6.41%)
0.210 kg Dingemans Aromatic Malt (3.85%)
0.210 kg Dingemans Biscuit or Briess Victory (3.85%)
0.150 kg Simpsons Chocolate (2.75%)
0.040 kg Simpsons Roasted Barley (0.73%)

Hop Bill
----------------
25.0 g Challenger Pellet (6.5% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (1 g/L)
14.0 g Challenger Pellet (6.5% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil) (0.6 g/L)

Misc Bill
----------------

Stepped Infusion at 69°C for 40 Minutes and 78°C for 10 minutes.

Fermented at 20°C with Wyeast 1469 - West Yorkshire Ale
 
Not sure heritage is available in AU at the moment. If not, either simpsons medium or 1/3 each light, medium and dark.
 
Happy to be aboard the mild express...

Now its just a question of ordering a double batch or single batch of this from Craftbrewer.
 
Looks good mate! Love my dark milds here! Next brew or two will be the next batch I think (I'm up to version 12 of my Old Rifle Range Mild).... Depends on what grains I have on hand!
 
I'm brewing a mild tomorrow, 1.036 OG, using 002/1968.

Will it be ready to keg the following Saturday? (so I can harvest the yeast for another batch).

Ideally I'd top-crop, but that's not really possible with the jerrys I use as fermenters.
 
I use jerries and sometimes top crop.

I would say yes though - get plenty of oxygen in there and I would be surprised if she's not ready to go (although 1968 can sometimes slow down).
 
manticle said:
It's a beer best drunk fresh so take that into consideration.
I've seen you mention similar things a few times. What do you mean by this? Have you seen specific things degrade over time? I understand heavily hopped beers can mellow after time but I thought malt forward beers were a good candidate for slightly longer storage. Reason I ask is that I no chill and like to keep a few cubes ready to ferment when I can. Longest one I left was 1 month in the cube before fermenting. I didn't notice any differences to one that had been brewed, cubed and fermented in under 2 weeks.
 
Best drunk fresh after fermentation is what he means
 
lukiferj said:
I've seen you mention similar things a few times. What do you mean by this? Have you seen specific things degrade over time? I understand heavily hopped beers can mellow after time but I thought malt forward beers were a good candidate for slightly longer storage. Reason I ask is that I no chill and like to keep a few cubes ready to ferment when I can. Longest one I left was 1 month in the cube before fermenting. I didn't notice any differences to one that had been brewed, cubed and fermented in under 2 weeks.
Definitely talking post fermentation.

low alcohol, low hop rate means it desn't last super well. I have noticed they hit their prime pretty quick then can develop evidence of staling.

No-chilled wort is a completely different kettle of fish to fermented beer.
 
I thought I'd taste a bottle of the mild a week after being bottled to see how carbonation was going. It's been cool in the house and they're still hardly carbonated :(. I'll put a sixpack somewhere warm to see if I can get them sorted by next weekend. Even though it was quite flat, it already tastes pretty good and has a nice clean maltyness. I really like the S04 yeast. I need to try it in something else. It finished so fast and has left the beer crystal clear. I only used some Irish moss in the boil. No fermenter finings or cold crashing.

When its properly carbed i'll post a pic.
 
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