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Massive Kettle losses :( Need advice

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Barge said:
I think it's all been said here but i thought I'd chime in to hopefully add some clarity.
Imagine that 2L lost to trub is pretty standard. That the loss is due somewhat by the amount of trub but also the deadspace in the kettle. I know the OP siphons but it's usually a factor.
At any rate, if i lose 2L in a 10L batch, i have lost 20%. If i am able to scale up to 100L, i would only lose 2% with a 2L loss. Even with a 5L loss I've only lost 5%.
I know this is obvious but small batch brewing is disproportionately affected by losses than large scale. It goes with the territory.
Now, you could obviously employ some of the great advice in this thread to keep the same volume and reduce your losses but the best thing you could do is to scale up to a larger volume as quickly as your budget allows.

This does make sense to a degree, what I don't quite understand is why trub should be relatively standard, I'm certainly not arguing that it isn't but I would have intuitively guessed that the more grain and hops you used, the more trub you would end up with in a fairly linear trend as there is simply more malt protein and hop matter. With regards to larger batches as budget allows its not so much equipment but a desire for variety that keeps me brewing small batches, I love making a slab and a half of a beer and having 5 different selections as opposed to 2 or 3. Its not so much my lack of beer that is killing me its the loss of potential beer that may be possibly saved with little to no extra effort :)

micblair said:
Lots of good suggestions re. kettle finings, however you might want to address the losses upstream.

- Are you getting clear wort at the end of your mash?
- Are you using malts which are well modified, and don't have excessive protein levels?
- Are you overloading your kettle with hops?
- What's your boil off rate -- is evaporation contributing to your reduced yield?
Some interesting points here, I BIAB and no, I get fairly cloudy wort and my pre-boil gravity samples do have a noticeable amount of protien in them floating around.

I'm assuming Im using well modified malts as I'm using modern Briess/Weyer/etc
RE Excessive protein levels: I do employ a mash schedule which is strong on protein rests which is something I haven't thought about. Im resting at 54 for 10 and 70 for 45 (70 being more for alpha than for protein) but I'm ot actually sure if this plays a part in precipitation of proteins or just strengthens/modifies the protiens that are in solution in the final beer?

Definitely not overloading with hops, The batch in the original post was 10L and used a grand total of 17g of hops haha

My boil off rate is somewhat alarming but also calculated for. Well its not alarming at all in terms of volume but it is as a percentage. around 3L/hr which is around the 23% mark but I mash with 14L, lose 1L to grain, pre-boil is 13L, boil down to 10L, lost 2.3L to trub, Fermenting 7.7L and will probably get 7L packaged. For my normal 13L batch that would look like 17.5L mash, 1.5 loss to grain, 16L boil, 13L post boil, 11-12L into fermenter.


EDIT: After reading this I realise that I should mention that it is nit so much the amount of trub created that is the problem but the lack of seperation. When I say i lose 2L to trub the trub in the kettle is very thin in terms of viscosity i.e. there is plenty of beer in there I just cant get it out without sucking up all the trub. So my main issue is getting that trub more tightly seperated so that more clear wort will come away before I start sucking up trub.
 
I haven't got a good answer to the non-linear nature of trub production. I don't have any personal experience with larger batches so I'm only going by what I've read/heard about. I lose 2L, mainly due to desdspace and no pickup tube or screen. I have no problem with trub in the fermenter but knowing that it ends up as a loss i figure it may as well stay in the kettle.

Having said that, your best option may be to transfer the lot to the fermenter. After fermentation you can cold crash the FV and get a more settled layer of yeast/trub so when you package you won't lose as much beer.
 
Barge said:
I haven't got a good answer to the non-linear nature of trub production. I don't have any personal experience with larger batches so I'm only going by what I've read/heard about. I lose 2L, mainly due to desdspace and no pickup tube or screen. I have no problem with trub in the fermenter but knowing that it ends up as a loss i figure it may as well stay in the kettle.

Having said that, your best option may be to transfer the lot to the fermenter. After fermentation you can cold crash the FV and get a more settled layer of yeast/trub so when you package you won't lose as much beer.
Wrong seriously and fundamentally bad brewing practice!

One of the main reasons for boiling a wort is to coagulate and remove excess particularly high molecular weight protein. To suggest adding it to the fermenter is very bad advice. I've posted this link lots of time but here it is again View attachment 02 - The function of wort boiling1.pdf FFS read it before offering advice on a subject you clearly don't understand.

Nizmoose
Apart from trying some of the ideas suggested earlier, from your last post it, would help if you could turn the heat down, you only need 8-10% evaporation to achieve all the goals of good wort boiling, boiling harder will coagulate more protein, some of it protein that you want to keep in the beer to add body, improve head and provide good yeast nutrition.
Mark
 
MHB said:
Wrong seriously and fundamentally bad brewing practice!

One of the main reasons for boiling a wort is to coagulate and remove excess particularly high molecular weight protein. To suggest adding it to the fermenter is very bad advice.
Why? The only statement that even remotely supports your belief is

"Proteins which combine with unoxidised polyphenols are soluble in boiling wort but precipitate when chilled and can give rise to chill haze and cold break. The polyphenols may subsequently oxidise during beer processing and may produce colloidal instability in packaged beer."

This can only occur if the protein-polyphenol complexes are in the packaged beer. As they are insoluble in beer, and not in the packaged beer, as they are left in either the kettle or the fermenter, then this concern is minor. Particularly in the context of the O.P.'s scenario. He's brewing a carton of beer FFS (yes, I can swear at people on the internet too). I'm not too sure that he's worried about colloidal instability.

But what about "off flavours" I hear you cry?

No mention of that in your article the article that you found that applies more to large scale breweries.

What is mentioned is

"The DMS released during boiling is rapidly lost through evaporation. However, the breakdown of S-methyl methionine continues during the period between the end of boiling and wort cooling. The DMS released is not lost and persists into the finished beer. It is, therefore, possible to control the level of DMS by varying the duration of boil and whirlpool stage.

Methods of control DMS levels in beer:
• use malt with low S- methyl methionine levels.
• long wort boiling time to decompose precursor and vaporise DMS.
• short whirlpool stand time to reduce decomposition of the precursor.
• rapid wort cooling – reducing the time the wort is held hot.
• use wort stripping after the whirlpool stand to remove DMS."

Quick, better go tell all the no-chill brewers that they're full of **** and their beers are (excuse the technical terms but I'm trying to establish my superiority and I haven't got any science-y articles to link to) "chocka's full of DMS".

Oh wait, here's an article that discusses the effect of wort turbidity linky

They state that

"According to Sommer the influence of wort turbidity on beer quality is often overestimated. For example in his investigations fast and turbid lautering did not lead to a deterioration of flavour quality of the resulting beer.111 In the extensive large-scale trials mentioned previously, Schur and Pfenninger evaluated the influence of different lauter regimes (turbid, clear) and lauter durations (long, short) on the flavour quality of the resulting beers. Related to lauter turbidity and duration they found the following order with decreasing sensory quality of the fresh beers: “turbid/short”, “turbid/long”, “clear/short”, “clear/long”. When the same beers were aged for 5 weeks at 25°C the order was as follows: “turbid/long”, “clear/ short”, “turbid/short”, “clear/long”. In contrast, Mück reported a negative influence of turbid lauter worts connected with high fatty acid amounts prior to wort boiling and high oxygen content on beer flavour and observed an unpleasant bitterness which most probably did not depend on fatty acids. Here, the influence of turbidity seemed to be bigger than that of oxygen. In contrast, Whitear et al. explained that the effect of lipids was overestimated and weighs much less than the oxygen pick-up during wort production"

Also,

"In conclusion, many authors support that the removal of fatty acids from wort, as far as possible, is favourable for flavour stability. According to Zangrando clear lautering is obligatory to providing good flavour stability. On this point Schur and Pfenninger partly disagree as they found that beers produced from extended lautering and very clear worts performed the worst in taste testings of fresh and aged beers."

Which basically states that wort turbidity is complex and produces a highly variable effect on beer flavour quality. They report similar variation in terms of flavour stability and foam stability.

One of their concluding statements

"most of the authors pointed out the positive influence of cloudy wort in terms of yeast metabolism and fermentation performance. At the same time, however, the adverse consequences of high lauter turbidity for the final beer quality, particularly for flavour and foam stability, were thoroughly discussed. Since the negative consequences seemed to outweigh, this led to the preference of high wort clarity, and this has been generally accepted among brewers until today."

Given that the main issue is one of stability, I question the impact this will have on nizmoose's beer.

Here's a related experience on a small scale
http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/

Here's what they found

"The assumption that clearer wort in the fermentor leads to clearer beer in the end appears to be false, at least based on the results of this exBEERiment, with all samplers agreeing that Truby was brighter than Non-Truby."

Additionally,

"For those who tend to prefer clearer and crisper beers with potentially sharper bitterness, consider not worrying too much about the amount of kettle trub you transfer to the carboy. Alternately, those who enjoy slightly smoother bitterness and don’t mind a bit more haze in their beer may want to continue investing a little more effort in transferring only the clearest wort to their fermentor."

Again, if you like your information to be more authoritative then the effect of adding trub to fermentation vessels was also reported here.

They found that

"The addition of hot trub of various origins to yeasts of various vitalities leads to higher cell counts in suspension and consequently, to higher fermentation performance. In summary, hot trub addition is beneficial to yeast of either, high vitality (e.g. propagated/assimilated yeast), or low vitality (e.g. after several fermentation cycles). Further, the more hot trub or particles are added, the more advantageous for fermentation."

Admittedly, they concede that

"potential consequences for final beer quality are somewhat [beyond] the scope of this paper and have to be considered when applying hot trub in practical operations."

None of this means that fermenting on trub is 'fundamentally bad brewing practice!". It means that nizmoose should listen to and do whatever the **** he want's to enhance his enjoyment of this hobby.

Or just PM Mark every time you have a question.

Before you start slagging off at people you might want to consider that you don't know everything.

EDIT: Before the flaming starts I want to point out that

i) I have a Science degree, have worked as a scientist, I understand science.
ii) Peer reviewed journals are fundamental for the rigor that is necessary in the execution of good Science
iii) Science can be performed by anyone, anywhere, anytime. I'm not saying that the blog "proves" anything about fermenting on trub. I'm aware it's one persons experience. FWIW, I think that it is one of his better experiments but I place no statistical significance in his findings. I include it as it shows the potential for nizmoose to minimise system losses whilst having a potentially minimal impact (positive or negative) on beer quality.
 
The article I posted is from the IBD training material freely available to anyone who wants to learn a bit about brewing, I realise that it is fairly basic and not a peer reviewed journal but it is written by a master brewer (PhD equivalent in brewing) and published by the organisation that presents as much or more peer reviewed brewing research than any other - not some blogger.

You have linked to the peer reviewed JIB paper that kicked off the whole question about wort turbidity.
You will notice that it deals mostly with the turbidity of sweet water going to the kettle, for some reason a few home brewers have rather questionably taken this to be about kettle wort.
Just so we understand what we are talking about here is an illustration of the turbidity standards in FTU/NTU
Turbidity 2.JPG
Note in the conclusion to the paper that the authors are talking about turbidity's under 10EBC going TO the kettle as being problematic, 1EBC is 0.25FTU/NTU so 2.5 on the scale illustrated (between the far right sample and the margin). That's a hell of a long way from being a supporting argument for dumping all the hot break into the fermenter.

We all know a little (0.1-0.2 ppm) of Zinc is important, actually its vital, so would adding 500ppm of zinc to a wort be a good idea - no it would poison the yeast.
Is a little hot break going to ruin the beer - no. A little hot break will always make it into the fermenter, but like the zinc question does a little being beneficial mean a lot is a good idea?
Saying yes is very much what I think of as Bad Science!

As for saying the training information I posted doesn't say lots of hot break is bad, of the opening 4 bullet points, the second one means "We boil a wort to reduce protein" that is listed before getting what we want out of hops and reducing volatiles (a different conversation) and no you couldn't hear me crying about it, not relevant to the question in hand.
Suggesting that someone add all the condensed protein back to the fermenter is ridiculous, clearly wrong and very bad brewing practice.

I have to head off to a brewery now, got some beer to filter and get kegged, a pump to service and a bit of welding to do if the Argon holds up.
Mark
 
If I can chime in before people die I think both MHB and Barge make reasonable points and I take bits away from both arguments. The big take home for me is to find a way to get better kettle efficiency and to not stress immensely about getting a LITTLE bit of trub in the fermenter but at the same time ensuring most remains in the kettle :)
 
I'm sure I've read something about just this topic of fermenting on trub. It said something along the lines of that it did not matter much and most people with strong opinions of said topic were bottle-fed anyway. You're not Heineken. Brewbrite rules ok.
 
Okay time for some follow up and its not good. Today I brewed a 1.070 IPA and it was my first chance to give whirlfloc a try. Added about a third of a tablet with 5 mins left of the boil. It was a tiny 7 L batch and a third of a tab fits perfectly to the recommended dosage. I chilled the wort down to 25C in 10 mins then let the pot sit for about 20 minutes tilted. Came back and not only had the protein not settled out better than previous batches but it was by a country mile so much worse. All the trub was maybe 5mm from the surface and not moving down. I tried a whirlpool then another 20 minute rest, no improvement. So to get my wort into the fermenter I sat there pissed off with a strainer and siphon filling the strainer with ****, stopping the siphon, clearing the ****, restarting the siphoning, clearing ****, etc. So much worse than previous batches. I took a lot of crap into the fermenter but still left over a litre behind after I got sick of straining wort. I left it in the pot and cleaned up, went to the girlfriends and came back and the **** was still sitting almost at the top of the remaining wort. I'm genuinely at a loss on what to do. The only thing I can think of is that a 1.070 wort was more dense than the trub and protein but I'm having a hard time believing it. Sooooo many people here seem to get crystal clear wort into the fermenter, I'm not chasing crystal clear, just something I dont have to run through a god damned strainer for 30 minutes to get anything into the fermenter... Rant over
 
Niz,
I use whirfloc in kettle.
in a 60L boil with 54L in kettle at end i use 2x tablets and put them in at 10 to go.
I whirlpool hot and the stuff works! Biggest beer was 1.060.
I start a whirlpool, lid on and walk away. Come back and it looks awesome and then i no chill into the cubes.

I wouldn't be without it.

Edit: perhaps because you are chilling you are getting cold break in kettle too, whereas my cold break will form in cube / fermenter?

Cheers,
D80
 
I use half a tab in 23ish litres so I'm not sure you are using the prescribed dosage nizmoose.
 
Ya gotta be pissed, it can be very frustrating
I strongly suspect that you have done a better job than you realise and that what you are seeing is entirely Cold break and that will never settle in a 1.070 beer. You are quite right about the relative density.
There are a bunch of things you could do but what I would recommend is that you don't chill the beer in the kettle.
Either No-Chill at the end of the boil, add finings and whirlpool , rack to a container leaving hop debris and hot break behind - ignore any cold break that forms in the no-chill container.
Or do as you have to date, syphon off once all signs of rotation from whirlpooling have stoped (and maybe an extra 10 minutes or so), just leave enough in the bottom of the kettle for the hot break (say 1L or so)
In either case the result should be the same and a 1.070 beer is going to make lots of cold break, especially if its highly hopped.

I would try some BrewBright I find it much more effective than Whirlfloc but like any fining using it properly in terms of how you use it and how much you use is really important, the wrong dose can actually make the problem worse. I am inclined to agree with manticle I suspect that you 1/4 tab may be well off the mark
Mark
 
Nizmoose said:
For reference here's a picture after a 20 minute sit. Absolutely useless!
I have had similar issues, but only when I did not use a hop sock. For some reason the pellet material just refused to settle out! I've since gone back to hop socking and have had better results. No idea why it would be so......
 
My 2c,

When starting out with all grain I used 1 Whirlfloc per 23lt batch and got lots of cloudy cold break in my NC cubes.

Advice from this forum was to reduce to 1/2 a tablet per batch , which is the recommended rate.

I now use 1 tab @ 10 min in my 60tl batches, lose 5lt to trub in an 80lt kettle and get just a little cold break in the cube.

My finished beer has chill haze but stll has won local comps.

G.
 
You would think it would be easy to get good clear instructions on the best way to use Whirlfloc - WRONG - not even the manufacturers give better than basic guidance and that if full of get out of jail free and escape clauses.
The closest I have seen to a "Recommended" dosage is 2 Tablets to a US Barrel (about 117L), and this is the part most people don't read @ 10oP (1.040 SG)
So for a 25L kettle full the "recommended" dose is going to be very close to 1/2 a tablet (~0.43) if you beer was at 1.040.
What the Whirlfloc is doing is acting on the protein from the malt (mostly) if you have a higher gravity you have more protein and that requires more Whirlfloc.
So if you were boiling a 1.070 (17.5oP) batch you should be using (0.43/40*70=) ~0.75 of a tablet.
Even then there are a lot of other factors that the manufacturers recommend paying attention to, pH is going to be a big one and Ca content of the wort will play an important roll to, they always recommend doing trials and determining the optimum dose.

I suppose that if you wanted a starting place, by looking at 1 tablet / 58.674L @ 10oP you could make a little equation that says: -
No Tablets = L X oP X 0.0017 (just testing my finger counting) 25*17.5*0.0017 = 0.74375 Tablets
You would still have to do a bunch of trials to optimise which would be fine if you were a big brewery doing the same beer over and over again.
I still prefer BrewBright, Growler , one of the advantages of BrewBright is that it really helps to reduce the Chill Haze forming part of the beer at the same time as doing the kettle fining - well worth trying.
Mark
 
Thanks for all the great replies guys, having a laugh looking back on my posts I was not a happy camper!
Diesel80 said:
Niz,
I use whirfloc in kettle.
in a 60L boil with 54L in kettle at end i use 2x tablets and put them in at 10 to go.
I whirlpool hot and the stuff works! Biggest beer was 1.060.
I start a whirlpool, lid on and walk away. Come back and it looks awesome and then i no chill into the cubes.

I wouldn't be without it.

Edit: perhaps because you are chilling you are getting cold break in kettle too, whereas my cold break will form in cube / fermenter?

Cheers,
D80
I have no doubt it works as obviously they wouldnt sell any once everyone caught on haha but for some reason it really did nothing for me but I'll adjust my dosage and hopefully get similar results to you!

MHB said:
Ya gotta be pissed, it can be very frustrating
I strongly suspect that you have done a better job than you realise and that what you are seeing is entirely Cold break and that will never settle in a 1.070 beer. You are quite right about the relative density.
There are a bunch of things you could do but what I would recommend is that you don't chill the beer in the kettle.
Either No-Chill at the end of the boil, add finings and whirlpool , rack to a container leaving hop debris and hot break behind - ignore any cold break that forms in the no-chill container.
Or do as you have to date, syphon off once all signs of rotation from whirlpooling have stoped (and maybe an extra 10 minutes or so), just leave enough in the bottom of the kettle for the hot break (say 1L or so)
In either case the result should be the same and a 1.070 beer is going to make lots of cold break, especially if its highly hopped.

I would try some BrewBright I find it much more effective than Whirlfloc but like any fining using it properly in terms of how you use it and how much you use is really important, the wrong dose can actually make the problem worse. I am inclined to agree with manticle I suspect that you 1/4 tab may be well off the mark
Mark
I'll give brewbrite a try after these ten tabs and will see which I prefer! I have no doubt that what I was seeing was cold break, it definitely was, but I was under the assumption that whirlfloc takes care of hops as well as if not mainly protein? This was my first beer of 1.070 OG so I'm interested to try again on a smaller beer. My biggest issue so far isnt so much the appearance of the wort but the amount of straining I had to do haha

MHB said:
You would think it would be easy to get good clear instructions on the best way to use Whirlfloc - WRONG - not even the manufacturers give better than basic guidance and that if full of get out of jail free and escape clauses.
The closest I have seen to a "Recommended" dosage is 2 Tablets to a US Barrel (about 117L), and this is the part most people don't read @ 10oP (1.040 SG)
So for a 25L kettle full the "recommended" dose is going to be very close to 1/2 a tablet (~0.43) if you beer was at 1.040.
What the Whirlfloc is doing is acting on the protein from the malt (mostly) if you have a higher gravity you have more protein and that requires more Whirlfloc.
So if you were boiling a 1.070 (17.5oP) batch you should be using (0.43/40*70=) ~0.75 of a tablet.
Even then there are a lot of other factors that the manufacturers recommend paying attention to, pH is going to be a big one and Ca content of the wort will play an important roll to, they always recommend doing trials and determining the optimum dose.

I suppose that if you wanted a starting place, by looking at 1 tablet / 58.674L @ 10oP you could make a little equation that says: -
No Tablets = L X oP X 0.0017 (just testing my finger counting) 25*17.5*0.0017 = 0.74375 Tablets
You would still have to do a bunch of trials to optimise which would be fine if you were a big brewery doing the same beer over and over again.
I still prefer BrewBright, Growler , one of the advantages of BrewBright is that it really helps to reduce the Chill Haze forming part of the beer at the same time as doing the kettle fining - well worth trying.
Mark
Thanks a lot for this info mark I'll use that maths for next time for sure, Brewbrite is going on the shopping list. I have comabtted some chill haze problems with longer cold crashing but I'm getting to the point where I am really wanting to stretch the presentation of the beer if for nothing else than the satisfaction of a challenge.


After reading all this it looks like I have a few factors which contributed to my problem and a few things I need to work on. Firstly a very small volume of high gravity wort was probably a pretty harsh test for the whirlfloc. My next batch is 13L of 1.050 so more volume but less gravity. I'll post whatever happens there. Also it appears that brewbrite maybe a good alternative, from memory its a powder and not a tablet? might suit me and my smaller batches more for the sake of not trying to inaccurately razor blade a tablet into bits. I appreciate all the help guys and hopefully I'll get this whole thing working how I want soon!
 
Nizmoose,
Beerbelly Brewing sells Brewbrite.

I mix it into around 100 mls of clean cold water and add the slurry 10 minutes before flame out.
You can see it clump the protein together before your eyes....I would never go back to Wirlflock.
 
dicko said:
Nizmoose,
Beerbelly Brewing sells Brewbrite.

I mix it into around 100 mls of clean cold water and add the slurry 10 minutes before flame out.
You can see it clump the protein together before your eyes....I would never go back to Wirlflock.
Cheers dicko had a good look into brewbrite before and looks like I'll give it a whirl (pun intended). Not saying whirlfloc is useless of course and I'll be using all the tabs but I'll definitely be comparing and seeing what I prefer over the next few weeks!
 
The Brewbrite listed on BB's site says it does not need slurrying but I slurry it and it seems to work much better.
The first lot I used was from Craftbrewer and I did not know I had to slurry it and was very dissappointed but the next time I used it I had done more r search and slurrying definately worked a lot better.
My conclusion is that there must be two types of brewbrite but both seem to work well in a slurry.

Good brewing
 
Now this may not help with your 'kettle losses' problem as per your OP, but to help reduce some of the protein problems you have with coagulation, have you tried 90 min boils. Whilst not the be all and end all, I have always conducted 90 min boils and only recently tried whirlfloc (at 15 mins before shut off) finding it has helped reduce chill haze to nothing (this is in addition to lagering for 1+ months). I must say though the difference was not that noticable as compared to my usual 90 min boils + lagering (without whirlfloc).

I also use a very 'technical method' of ensuring reduction in large protein particles/shredded hops. It's called a sanitized sieve and stocking ;) . Sieve with stocking wrapped under it with the combined filter resting ontop of the fermentor. The wort pours through it into the fermentor with the stocking stopping most protein coagulate from getting into the fermentor (clear wort is filtered through) and at the same time creates better aeration.

Whilst not the most professional set up it works and like others, I pour the remaining litre or two from the kettle into the same filter and freeze for later use. By this method, I don't have to put in a container and chill settle the trub, it is already seperated.

Simple and effective.
 
Haha funnily enough the batch in question was my first 90 minute boil haha, I actually forgot about that. So yeah I made an adjustment there as well to no avail
 
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