Mash Tun

[Doc]

TL,

I had an esky that had a tap installed.
I removed the tap and bought a length of (1/2 inch I think) threaded pipe.
On the inside I put a rubber washer and a hex nut. On the outside I put a hex nut.

Then on my manifold I have a nut that screws on to the threaded pipe.

Maybe a picture would help.
See below.

Beers,
Doc

 

[Trough Lolly]

Nice work Doc! Thanks for that - I'm off to Bunnings in the morning!!
The trick is to use threaded pipe - and John Palmer recommends 1/2 inch pipe with appropriate clearance from the walls - he says the distance between the manifold and the walls should be half the distance between the lengthwise sections...Easy ain't it!

P.S. I found that video spot on brewing on the Today show - will grab it and publish it on here soon...!

Cheers,

TL

 

[big d]

stripped down my mash tun set up for these pics.glad i did as there was a bit of hidden gunk behind them.
anyway the white rubber fitting was from the plumbing section at mitre ten and it put and end to my slow drip problem.
hope it helps
by the way i use a rubbermaid cooler but the outlet fittings should all be of use.

cheers
big d

 

[big d]

other view.

 

[Trough Lolly]

Thanks BigD for the imagery - sure helps working out a nice clean solution when you guys post pictures of successful instals.

Cheers,
TL

 

[pioneergangsta]

Trough Lolly

I used 1/2 inch treaded tubing which went through the existing plug hole on the esky. To seal i used rubber washers and a hex nut.

Cheers,

(finally finished )

 

[Trough Lolly]

Gangsta,
Congrats on the mash tun - I have an Esky at home, but the damn outlet hole is on the side of the esky (at one end) and makes for a nightmare manifold design, so, I will donate the esky back to the household and lash out and pick up a new one (like the look of yours) when I'm at the shops next.
Some articles suggest soldering the metalwork, but I would have thought that cleaning and maintenance is easier if the whole lot is pushed together so I can pull it apart for cleaning etc.
Cheers,
TL

 

[pioneergangsta]

Some articles suggest soldering the metalwork

Nah dont worry about this, it fits quite snug there is no need.

Picked up some more copper for my chiller, $3 a mtr at a local plumbing store ...a hell of alot better than $5.50 at bunnings. Ball valves where like $4 cheaper too! So i got one for my boiler
Here it is with the top cut out...

 

[Trough Lolly]

Nice...

What did you use to cut the keg?

 

[pioneergangsta]

To cut the keg:

- First i released the pressure, this was done simply by pushing on the rubber ring valve on the top with a screw driver.
- Next made an outline on top with a marker
- Then grab yourself an angle grinder, make sure the disc you have is a cutting metal one.
- I then made the cut ridge less dangerous by filing all the sharp bits off (not shown in pic).

I'm thinking of getting some rubber to go round the edging, probably safer

Cheers

 

[johnno]

Hi all,
Im going to try and get a manifold going this weekend. Being mechanically challenged is going to make it a real treat for me.
I like the look of the one big d uses. I know others use them as well. I think i prefer the bazooka to the copper one.
Man this will be fun. :unsure:

cheers

 

[Jovial_Monk]

I think my manifold with 1/8" holes drilled in where otherwise slots would be cut is hard to beat.

Jovial Monk

 

[big d]

hi johnno
ive sent you some info so get in touch some time.

cheers
big d

 

[RobW]

Johnno

Print this pic & take it to Bunnings. Show it to one of the guys there & he'll get you all the bits in about 15 seconds. Then tell him you want an EziHooker to fit the other end of the nipple & get the longest one you can fit in your mash tun. Let us know how you go.

 

[sosman]

If you can attach it both ends you will improve the flow and be more resistant to stickage - I don't have proof of this but my own experience backs up what seems to be an intuitive effect.

 

[ausdb]

I have just finished my mash tun manifold setup as part of the toys I am building for the No Eye Deer Brewing company!

Sosman thanks for the heads up on using the flanged washer, it works a treat my tun did not leak at all when left full of hot water for a day!
A tip for everyone in Perth Tradelink are cheaper than Bunnings for the bits and pieces, except they didn't have 1/2" stainless ball valves.

Here is the inside showing my ezy hooker manifold, I bought a 26 litre esky from Crazy Clarkes for $18 I know this is possibly a bit small but I have a 44 litre esky as well which I will convert if and when I need it.

I didn't use the threaded brass tube for my fittings, I used the brass stubs they solder to the copper tube when they fit a tap. I silver soldered a flanged washer to the threaded section which created my own bulkhead fitting without the worries of using teflon tape to seal the thread. There is only one fibre washer inside the tun between the flanged nut and the side of the esky. Also the esky didn't have a drain in it but that was easily fixed with a holesaw!

The other photo shows the ball valve on the side of the esky

Darryn

 

[ausdb]

Oops just getting the hang of this bit

Here's the outside of my tun

Darryn