Mash Temps

[tintin]

I'm sure this has been done to death, but how does beer character vary with mash temperature, low end (64-65 deg C) to high end (69 deg C). And do some styles demand a particular temp.
Also, I noticed when I let loose my strike water into my esky tun (with the grain), the water loses at least 6 deg immediately, and I have to top it up with more hot water to get it to the required temp. Should I be heating the strike water to maybe 74 C if I want the mash temp to be 67-68 C? I should say that as a novice, my esky is quite small and only has the capacity for 2.5kg grain and the resulting strike water (~6-7 litres).
Thanks for any advice.

 

[Trent]

Tintin
definitely add 74C water if you want 67-68, makes it alot easier. I have just moved to a pump system, and found that I am now losing about 8-9C, rather than my previous 6C, probably because of longer lines. Anyway, I have always mashed at about 67-69C, but found that my beers were a little too heavy to drink more than 3 or 4, they really bloated me. I am now mashing at about 63-64C and although none of these beers are at drinking age yet, I have noticed out of the fermenter they dont seem to have that heaviness that most others have had, and should be better for drinking all night long. The lower you mash, the lower your FG should be, and the higher, you will get a higher FG. It all cpmes down to enzymes that convert the starch into maltose, over about 67, I think that only Alpha works, making long chain sugars and dextrins that the yeast cant completely consumne, leaving a sweeter, fuller bodied beer, whereas below 65 or so, it is mostly Beta, making shorter chain sugars that the yeast can consume most of, leaving for a slightly dryer beer. I think that 64-66C is about the best of both worlds (or I hope so, an IPA I am mashing now is sitting at about 66C rather than the 64 I had planned for. Oh well, just be a little heavier than planned, but at around about 7.5%, it is never gonna be a session beer!
Hope this clears up some of yer questions
Trent

 

[Hogan]

Tin Tin

I'm only just moving toward AG and have read that if you warm up the tun with some boiling water first (and then toss it out) it will help reduce the temp loss when the strike goes in.

Cheers, Hogan.

 

[NRB]

How To Brew.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Your Strike temp is the temp of the water BEFORE you add the grain. Strike temp is beneraaly about 6-8 *c higher than your mash temp. Grain temp is a factor in what your strike temp will be.It will take a bit of trial and error.

It is a very good idea to heat up your mash tun first. Just simply add hotter water and wait till it cools down to your required strike temp.No need to throw the water out.

 

[Mr Bond]

tin tin,

this link to a calculator may help a little.

i used it in the early days and found my basis for a standard strike temp. I always aim to start in mid 66's and allow for a 1.5 c loss over 75 mins at a 3 litre per KG ratio.Gives me the body/mouthfeel that i like in an ale.

 

[NRB]

Corrected link to G&G calculator.

 

[Hogan]

Grain temp is a factor in what your strike temp will be.It will take a bit of trial and error.

[post="127422"][/post]​

Ducatiboy - How do you determine 'grain temperature'? Is it supposed to be warmed prior to going into the tun?

Cheers, Hogan.

 

[NRB]

Hogan, just stick a thermometer in the grain, or measure the ambient temp which the grain should be very close to.

 

[Mr Bond]

Corrected link to G&G calculator.

[post="127444"][/post]​

Thanks for the quick patch up work NRB Owe ya one :excl:

 

[NRB]

No worries sir. It was easier to correct than to let you know you had a double "http://".

 

[Mr Bond]

No worries sir. It was easier to correct than to let you know you had a double "http://".

[post="127454"][/post]​

Damn that
double "http://". and my cumbersome fingers/keyboard skills. :blink:

 

[Batz]

I am now mashing at about 63-64C and although none of these beers are at drinking age yet, I have noticed out of the fermenter they dont seem to have that heaviness that most others have had, and should be better for drinking all night long. The lower you mash, the lower your FG should be, and the higher, you will get a higher FG. It all cpmes down to enzymes that convert the starch into maltose, over about 67, I think that only Alpha works, making long chain sugars and dextrins that the yeast cant completely consumne, leaving a sweeter, fuller bodied beer, whereas below 65 or so, it is mostly Beta, making shorter chain sugars that the yeast can consume most of, leaving for a slightly dryer beer. I think that 64-66C is about the best of both worlds (or I hope so, an IPA I am mashing now is sitting at about 66C rather than the 64 I had planned for. Oh well, just be a little heavier than planned, but at around about 7.5%, it is never gonna be a session beer!
Hope this clears up some of yer questions
Trent

[post="127276"][/post]​

Well said Trent


Batz

 

[sah]

Your Strike temp is the temp of the water BEFORE you add the grain.

[post="127422"][/post]​

Or if you do it the other way and add water to the grist already in the mash tun, the strike temperature is the temperature as enters the mash tun before thermal losses to the grist and the tun etc.

The temperature will settle within a couple of minutes once you've stirred the mash and distributed the water evenly.

Scott

 

[tintin]

Thanks for the help... That calculator's a beauty.