Manifold Opinion

[Gar]

G'day guys,

I've put together my manifold but I thought I'd run it past you guys before I drill and punch it together.

Do you think I'm to close to the sides with this?

The white polyethylene block is to stop the manifold moving backwards as it will just slip onto a 10mm copper outlet pipe

I think I will drill the squillions of 3/38" holes instead of cutting with a hack saw


Cheers :icon_cheers:

 

[manticle]

Looks pretty good. Can be advisable to run lengthways rather than crossways.

From experience I can suggest cutting with hacksaw/dremel is way easier than trying to drill (at least it was for me). Small drill bits on rounded surfaces are like Pita bread without the bread.

 

[under]

If you centre punch them it shouldnt be an issue.

 

[Gar]

Pita bread without the bread.

took me a few seconds to get that

 

[Mattese]

If you centre punch them it shouldnt be an issue.

In order to make enough holes for an effective manifold, that is one hell of a lot of centre punched holes. I went the hacksaw slot option, but a dremel cut would be even easier.

Holes would be purty though...

 

[Gar]

I'll be using a drill press and jig for the holes, I'm thinking maybe 2 rows 7mm apart?

You reckon that would be sufficient

 

[MaltyHops]

...
The white polyethylene block is to stop the manifold moving backwards as it will just slip onto a 10mm copper outlet pipe
...

You could cut slots into the block - maybe leaving just 3 or so "fingers"
in contact with the manifold - to maximise exposure of the manifold.

T.

 

[Gar]

You could cut slots into the block - maybe leaving just 3 or so "fingers"
in contact with the manifold - to maximise exposure of the manifold.

T.

yeah, that's a point, the block is a bit of a work in progress at the moment I might end up bending up a wire spacer to put in there instead

 

[warra48]

It will work fine if you plan to batch sparge.

I don't think it's the best design for fly sparging, as you are probably too close to the sides, and might encourage channeling.

 

[manticle]

How does the polyethylene cope with heat?

Looks like the high density foam we use to pack artwork (Etha-foam)

 

[Steve]

How does the polyethylene cope with heat?

first thing i thought of, get rid of it and make the manifold a tad longer....looks good, just get the grinder on it and cut some slots, dont worry about punching holes n shit , just cut it every few mils about quarter the way through

 

[Gar]

It will work fine if you plan to batch sparge.

I don't think it's the best design for fly sparging, as you are probably too close to the sides, and might encourage channeling.

That's good, I'm only going to be batch sparging with it

How does the polyethylene cope with heat?

Looks like the high density foam we use to pack artwork (Etha-foam)

Polyethylene will be fine in the temps it will be under, its actually the stuff that plastic cutting boards are made of

 

[manticle]

Reckon you should be fine then. Have a crack.

 

[Yorg]

What's the white block for?

If you are batch sparging, and mixing the sparge manually, you don't need a manifold at all, you are just quickly and completely draining. So a single short outlet without so many slots will be easier to clean too.
And don't sweat the efficiency of leaving behind a bit of extra wort, as it is the latter sparged, dilute stuff.

 

[manticle]

From the first post (hidden under the esky)

The white polyethylene block is to stop the manifold moving backwards as it will just slip onto a 10mm copper outlet pipe

 

[Gavo]

Polyethylene will be fine in the temps it will be under, its actually the stuff that plastic cutting boards are made of

That would actually be nylon then... so no problem with the heat.

Gavo.