Lalbrew New England Yeast

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Oh man...if this is actually a dried strain of Conan, or can at least perform close to it or the Gigayeast Vermont IPA yeast, they are on to a winner!
 
Id be definately trying this dry yeast. Currently using 1318 liquid for NEIPAs and they are $13 a beer and i cant reuse the yeast due to the dryhopping during fermemtation.
 
Id be definately trying this dry yeast. Currently using 1318 liquid for NEIPAs and they are $13 a beer and i cant reuse the yeast due to the dryhopping during fermemtation.

Do you make a starter with it before pitching? If so, then just make an extra 500-750ml of the starter and keep that (commonly known as overbuilding). That way you're also not getting yeast that has been stressed by the higher gravity environment of the beer, meaning that you should hopefully get less mutation over successive generations
 
Yeah my pitching from a starter is about 315billion which is 100billion over so I could definitely decant some for another batch. Cheers
 
My LHBS has finally started stocking Lalbrew's New England in 11g packs, along with their new Kolsch strain which I didn't even realise was on the radar. Interestingly, both of these new strains come with a higher recommended pitching rate which would wipe out the price saving for dry yeast if you had to buy two packs.

Anyone used either of these new strains yet?
 
For those that may be interested I brewed a new england style with this new yeast from Lallemand.

It was a low end 5.2% abv but with all the required fields of a NEIPA

35% Pilsner
35% Maris Otter
15% Wheat
15% Oats

Chloride forward water @ 200ppm, Sulphate at 80ppm, Calcium @ 100ppm, pH was 5.4

60min boil - Chinook for bittering = 30IBU

Whirlpooled 1 Oz (28g) each Mosaic, Amarillo & Galaxy @ 90c

Dry hopped 1Oz (28g) each Mosaic, Amarillo & Galaxy at high krausen
2nd Dry Hop same as above after fermentation.

Yeast was rehydrated and fermentated at 19c, kicked off after ~ 20hrs ( had read it takes up to 36hrs ) it was slow from 20-36hrs to form the full krausen.

Notes - this beer is full aromatic and juicy flavoured as expected. However dropped much clearer than I thought it would, I have had same if not better results with BRY97

Capture.PNG


Looking at the website and the BRY97 has a better % of "bio transformation" than this new New England yeast, which explains why i have had good results with that strain prior to using this.

https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/wp...bestpractices-Biotransformation-digital-1.pdf

Ive got another packet and will aim for a 6% + IPA with more hops and see how she goes.
 
Dan Pratt, how does it compare with Wy1318? I'm a fan of the 1318. I have some starters of the 1318 going and have been wondering if I should do a split batch with the dry stuff to compare. I like the flavour of both the malt and hops when using 1318.
 
Dan Pratt, how does it compare with Wy1318? I'm a fan of the 1318. I have some starters of the 1318 going and have been wondering if I should do a split batch with the dry stuff to compare. I like the flavour of both the malt and hops when using 1318.

Ive done twith 1318 just the once, to be honest neither of them have out performed US05, BRY97 ot English S04 with ester compounds or better biotransformations for finals beers.

It would be a good idea to do a split batch to get a side by side and see how they compare.
 
I had the same experience with lallemand New England yeast in respect to it dropping clear very quickly after kegging, beer tasted good but lost its happiness fairly quickly too.
 
Interesting, surprised it drops clear so quickly?? Was thinking of giving this a go, but maybe i'll miss it for now. I've only ever done NEIPAs with 1318 (with pretty good success) but maybe i'll give the old faithful S04 a go next since i have a packet sitting in the fridge.
 
Ive done twith 1318 just the once, to be honest neither of them have out performed US05, BRY97 ot English S04 with ester compounds or better biotransformations for finals beers.

It would be a good idea to do a split batch to get a side by side and see how they compare.

It surprises me when people aren't really impressed with Wy1318. There are some online blogs about the place where people have done a side by side with Conan and said it was hard to pick one from the other.

I think it's important to use a lot of hops late in the boil to get haze, because the haze in a NEIPA is caused by an abundance of hop oils. (For those whose beer is dropping clear.)
 
It surprises me when people aren't really impressed with Wy1318. There are some online blogs about the place where people have done a side by side with Conan and said it was hard to pick one from the other.

Here is my NEIPA from last year, sure now that i look at it i realise it was oxidised to hell and i didn't use an appropriate filter to make it look extra juicy. But, i really liked how 1318 performed. That said, i always prefer to use a dry yeast over a liquid yeast so if i can find something that performs comparably i will be happy.

lP7Yqhs.jpg

FpkdOUg
 
For those that may be interested I brewed a new england style with this new yeast from Lallemand........

Yeast was rehydrated and fermentated at 19c, kicked off after ~ 20hrs ( had read it takes up to 36hrs ) it was slow from 20-36hrs to form the full krausen.......

Did you use just one packet? I noticed this strain, as well as their new Koln strain, have a recommended pitching rate of double what is recommended for their old strains like Nottingham.
 
I think it's important to use a lot of hops late in the boil to get haze, because the haze in a NEIPA is caused by an abundance of hop oils. (For those whose beer is dropping clear.)

It can also be from suspended proteins (from adjuncts like oats and wheat) and from hop polyphenols
 
Did you use just one packet? I noticed this strain, as well as their new Koln strain, have a recommended pitching rate of double what is recommended for their old strains like Nottingham.

yep just the one packet for this beer, based on yeast needed to ferment taht gravity and volume.
 
I used 2 pkts for 19L of a NEIPA at 1.065 OG. Attenuation was high. The finished brew seemed to have the desired "juicy" quality. How much of that was from the yeast and how much from Mosaic (40g) and Kohatu (80g) hops in a stand and dry hopped it's hard to say.

It has stayed hazy in the fermenter and after bottling and cold storage. I used 400g quick oats and no fining.

A good test might be to use it to ferment a beer with much less fruity hops, say, an English Best Bitter with old-style hops like EKG and Fuggles. Could make quite a good brew. Sometime soon.
 
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