You will have to wait and see. Probably very similar price.
KegLand.com.au... whata ya got?
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You will have to wait and see. Probably very similar price.
wide eyed and legless
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At the lack of response I would be presuming that a 10% surcharge will be on the price of the goods you will be selling whether the purchase is made through Afterpay or not, to cover the cost which Afterpay charges plus your own administration.
Just found out about the existence of a beast known as the "ball valve with cavity filler". Any chance of making these available to the homebrew market at a reasonable price? Would solve the fluid retention issue that prevents all the commonly-available ball valves from being suitable for CIP - now I know that these are a thing I'm buggered if I can work out why they're not standard kit for brewing.
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Quick clean/sanitary ball valves world be handy.
Ala https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-NPT-Quick-Clean-Take-Apart-Ball-Valve.html
Ala https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-NPT-Quick-Clean-Take-Apart-Ball-Valve.html
Dan Pratt
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huez
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Got a link to one of these meddo? I can't wrap my head around how they work....
They are just not that sanitary. If you are using valves for brewing you really need to go with the butterfly valves. In my opinion there is no substitute.
Mat B
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Obviously not all stock is listed yet, but I like the website format. Much easier to use than the sites of a few major competitors.
CJW
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I see there is a section for "Canning Equipment" that will be interesting.
Do you anticipate stocking submersible glycol/water pumps that could be used for cooling a conical?
Even with the cavity filler? I hate all the ball valves I've owned and replaced every one in my brewery with diaphragms or butterflies, but the cavity-filler versions seem like they'd at least be a massive step up on the standard ones even if not as good as butterflies or diaphragms.
And for the little extra bit of PTFE it doesn't seem like they'd be significantly more expensive to manufacture?
Hey mate, pictures explain it best - check out the images here.
Basically, instead of there being two PTFE discs holding the ball in the valve body, the two PTFE pieces are extended to fully encapsulate the ball so that there is no cavity for fluid to get trapped in behind it. There can still be fluid within the ball itself when it's closed, but there's no cavity behind it like you find in every ball valve supplied for home brewing that I've come across - it's this cavity that makes standard ball valves completely unsuitable for sanitary CIP systems, they need to be dismantled to be cleaned properly.
Image from here: https://cfmsd.com/page_Habonim-Industrial-Valves.cfm
mfroes
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@KegLand-com-au do you intend to get some sort of CIP system for keg washing and sanitising ?
i find it very hard to clean and sanitise 50l kegs.
i find it very hard to clean and sanitise 50l kegs.
CJW
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Or maybe the submersible sump pump suitable for CIP, and the other thing that would be good is submersible glycol pumps similar to the SS Brewtek ones with their chiller.
We have no plans to get into submersible pumps right at this moment but it's something that we will consider moving forward.
We do supply the g40 glycol chillers to www.morebeer.com in America and I believe they do change these glycol chillers over so they can be used to control various pumps for chilling fermenters. With that said in my opinion when it comes to chililng fermenters the best possible option is just to use a modified fridge so you ferment in a fridge. This gives you better control of temperatuer.
Even with a relatively powerful glycol chiller like the g40 it's hard to crash chill fermenters to sub zero temperatures like the SS Brewtech ones. They are simply not well insulated enough. So you end up with a lot of heat ingress. The other problem is when you have poorly insulated fermenters and get a lot of heat ingress you will end up with convection currents in the fermenter. These currents significantly reduc the speed at which the yeast will settle out of suspension. This is also something that many customers are not aware of and they wonder why the beer in their stainless conical never clears up.
So although we do sell the g40 chillers like these ones:
https://www.kegland.com.au/icemaster-g40-icebank-glycol-chiller-digital.html
I would not recommend unless you have great fermenter insulation. For instance if you get a proper stainless conical that has 50mm polyurethan insulation then this will work well but these small stainless home brew fermenters just go with the fridge. You will also use a lot less power too.
But Robobrews obviously use ball valves..? I'm surprised to hear you say they're no good for brewing. Is there something I'm missing?
Probably talking about using ball valves in cold side brewing like on fermenters etc. Not so bad used hot side on a kettle or Robobrew as the boiling wort will sanitise it.
The tap will have been heated for at least an hour during the boil prior to chilling. I always re- circulate near boiling wort through my ball valve after whirlpool for at least 10 mins before chilling.
