I did my fourth robobrew, this time with a pump (which really helped the chilling it seemed), and in general the process went smoothly; but raised some questions I'd appreciate help with (with a note on my experience to illustrate what I'm doing).
Appreciate the wisdom!
Cheers,
B
----------------------------------
- what mash profile should one use, or create, to represent the single infusion sparge process from Robobrew? Do you deliberately have a mash out period, or just start the boil while the pipe is draining?
--------Backstory: I selected single infusion, light body, batch sparge which gave me the right estimated numbers compared to real life; but I used my own mash and sparge volumes. I'm guessing starting the boil heating up while the pipe is draining serves the mash out process.
- should I be stirring the full length of the malt pipe at intervals while raining in the grain?
--------Backstory: I've been heating 20L in the RB to the beersmith recommended temp, then slowly rain in grain while stirring the top of the liquid. I find that leaves the mash appearing thick and hard to stir, and probably explains why the top of the mash when I'm done is a few degrees below the desired mash temp (as all the grain has cooled the upper layer of water). I've seen videos where people dump in a kg or two quickly, then stir vigorously, then repeat. Is that the best way?
- is there a preferable recirculation start time and volume/minute? and is the 500w recommended if recirculating.
--------Backstory: I used the pump for the first time this brew, turning it on at 15m and leaving it running continuously. It seemed to improve wort clarity before the boil. I was only doing about 1.5L/minute, with the 500w on. The liquid coming out the hose seemed to remain at the mash temp, so guess 500w is enough. But the KegKing instructions contemplate using either element.
- what are the best options to control foaming with a 30L boil?
--------Backstory: My amber ale really started to foam up and I only just avoided a boil-over by briefly switching off the elements, blowing on it madly, and spraying with water and stirring a bit. It did that a couple of times during the initial minutes of the bittering charge too. I think someone in the thread commented on throwing in a few grams of Saaz or other hop to control foaming - does that mean adding it before the boil starts?
- what are people using in BeerSmith's efficiency, and crush?
--------Backstory: I'm not sure if it was my cool mash, or the LHBS crush settings, but I only got correct results from BeerSmith if I had a 63% efficiency. I noticed Gash on Cellar Dweller sets his for 68%, and I think some people here go higher?
- are there any tricks to getting trub to collect better, particularly if recirculating while cooling?
--------Backstory: I used the pump to recirculate at full bore while the immersion chiller was going, and 15 degree ground water cooled it to 19 degrees in about half an hour which was much better than my experiences without the pump. But while quite a lot of hop debris collected on the bottom, the wort seemed cloudier than my previous brews, as if more stuff was still suspended. Should I stop the pump for a while before draining into the FV?
