I've put my Kegerator Series 4 together now and am just going through the inevitable pressure testing procedures (read headaches. A story for another thread). I went back through this thread and realised there weren't many pics of peoples setups. So I got the phone out and snapped away as a picture tells a 1000 words.I forgot to take photos until I was almost finished, but you will get the idea without the 'million photos for dummies, step by step approach'.
I made some improvements to the font insulation in an effort to try and make it a bit more efficient. Just used some double sided foil insulation I had. Cut to size, rolled and sealed together with some duct tape. I left the foam that came with it in there as it would provide extra insulation as intended, but I wanted to improve things a bit.
Inserted and drew where the holes were with a texta, removed and rough cut out the holes.
Getting the shanks in wasn't as hard as it looks, as the insulation, being flexible, just pushed back and once the nuts were tight was pushed over the outer part of the shank.
Capped off with some more rough cut insulation and sealed with some duct tape for better efficiency. The duct taped cap will be easy to remove if I need to get in there for some reason (leaks etc).
Unit setup complete from the front
and back, with 5kg tank mounted on the unmodified mounting bracket. The gas line is split with a Tee and has a shut off valve going into the unit and a long line with disconnect to use for high pressure 'Ross Method' carbs and carbing bottles of water/pre-mix whiskey and whatevers etc. This means the fridge doesn't need to be opened and the internal pressure is not upped, when I force carb something externally.
Internally there is a 2 way (later can be a 3 way) splitter screwed to the roof near the glass rack holes. I figured they have pre-drilled holes for the glass rack on both sides, so there's likely no refrigerant lines running through the top of the fridge.
keg fits in front of the splitter, but would go underneath if I wanted it to.
I have a Tee prior to the splitter, with a gas disconnect leading down, so that at the moment I have 3 disconnects for 3 kegs, but later I can put another valve on the splitter and have 4 gas disconnects. This is so I can have a mini keg in the back, sitting on the compressor hump connected to the rear most disconnect.
Anyway, I hope it helps someone some day, or gives some ideas.
Now I just need to find a good solution to plug the hole for the gas line going into the fridge. I've seen Bradsbrew used blue tack, but I was hoping for other ideas of things people have used.