Keg King Elements

[glenwal]

Also, for the benifit of anyone who doesn't know the difference, a circuit breaker and an RCD are two completely different things (though you often get a "combined" device).

A circuit breaker is there to protect the wiring in the house from melting and burning your house down. It offers no personal protection for an unfortunate person who touches a live wire. A circuit breaker has a specific current rating (16A for a general household power circuit), and if more current is drawn through it than that (either from overloading or from a short) it will trip.

An RCD (residual current device), often called a saftey switch or earth leakage detector, is designed to protect people. It basically compares the current flowing in vs the current returned and a difference (leakage to earth) causes the RCD to trip. This helps prevent you from being zapped as (generally) you will complete the circuit to earth and cause the leakage. The RCD then trips in a few milliseconds, preventing your death. As staed by zxhoon - it is still possible to complete an active-neutral circuit and not be protected.

The important thing here though, is most old houses do not have RCDs (they are legally required in new houses), and will only have fuses or circuit breakers, and alot of people don't know the difference and assume that a breaker or fuse will protect them.

You should also be testing your RCDs every few months (by pressing the little test button on it - which should trip the unit if it is working correctly)

 

[bonj]

You should also be testing your RCDs every few months (by pressing the little test button on it - which should trip the unit if it is working correctly)

<joke>But what about my uptime?</joke>

 

[NickB]

UPS.

 

[bonj]

UPS.

Damn you're clever!

 

[NickB]

Just make sure you don't get hooked up between the active and neutral on the UPS though Ben...

 

[jyo]

What happened to Lethal Corpse?

 

[NickB]

Electrocuted I heard. Faulty RCD...

h34r:

 

[jyo]

:lol:

Electrocuted I heard. Faulty RCD...

h34r:

 

[spudfarmerboy]

you assume the breaker has tripped in the first place, rubber soled shoes will not save you, I have been electrocuted on an earth leakage protected outlet (while wearing rubber soled shoes), reason for my post, sure it wasn't across my chest and I was lucky but it still


[/quote]


You say you got "electrocuted" on an earth leakage protected circuit.
You must be posting from the dead.
Electrocution is DEATH by electric shock, I think you mean you got a " shock" from an earth leakage protected outlet, which is entirely possible. People think an RCD will protect them from all electric shocks, only if some current goes to earth and there is an imbalance in current flow between active and neutral, will the RCD trip.

 

[dcx3]

Hi all
I posted my fault on brew Adelaide but forgot to post here,Boneski replied and mentioned the ongoing problems with these element's.I have just finished re-reading this thread, there has been alot added since i first read of Kev's complaint's some time ago. For some reason i was under the impression that the problems had been fixed and that my element would not be affected.Maybe i should stop skimming threads or learn to read.
Well mine blew last weekend.I was just getting ready to brew and had flicked the switch to heat my water, when about 30 seconds later there was a loud POP and then a small shower of sparks that only stopped when i switched the power off.
No dramas apart from the fact that one of my Daughters follows me everywhere!!
Luckily she was on the other side of the pot when the cord gave up the ghost, if she had of been between myself and the pot she would have worn a face full of **** knows what. When the element popped it was loud enough to scare the shite out of the pair of us! I she hadn't of been there i would of had my running shoe's on and lashed it.Luckily only my pride was hurt and now my daughter knows im a chicken shit.

I bought my element from craftbrewer and hold them responsible. They have my e-mail and they should have used it to tell me about these problems. If i hadn't been told in this thread that they where KK products i wouldnt be any the wiser.Maybe thats wrong and some people may argue that point but at some stage you should take care of your customers and just touch base to let everyone know there has been problems.
I note that craftbrewer still stocks these elements. I also note that AHB members are still using them...Dont!! Do yourself a favour and take a weekend of brewing and spend that time looking into a safer option.Let's keep this thread going and if anyone finds a better option drop it in here so we can all brew better
All the best and cheers!

 

[seemax]

Came across another option - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Water-Heater-Sc...=item3f0a164db6

240V, 3000W, $25 incl shipping, suits a 1 1/4" hole (same as KK) plus it's got a terminal block too... unclear if stainless or not.

 

[NickB]

From my research lately, the hole size for the KK elements is actually 1" BSP. Does limit choice somewhat, but there are similar elements to those that have been linked that are available in 1" size.

Cheers

 

[Bada Bing Brewery]

OK guys. I have one of these KK elements and it has worked for 6 brews so far but I am now going to retire it. I have a 50L ali pot with a KK size element hole in it. Has anyone found a plug and play element that I can change out so I can keep my pot????
Cheers
BBB

 

[b0neski]

I recently changed the configuration of my brewery, converting my dual KK element kettle to a single element HLT. I had an irrepairable element that I modified by grinding the internal weld out to remove the stick and tapping a 1/2" BSP thread on the inside of the remaining bulkhead fitting to make an adaptor for a thermowell. The thread did not cut full depth but it was enough to secure the thermowell. Everything sealed up fine with a bit of silicone sealant. You could just as easily block the hole with a 1/2" plug.

So if you need to block / change the purpose of the 32mm hole this may be an option for you.....

 

[Logman]

Tried my new element today on the HLT. I think it did the first 30 litres (19 degrees) in around 35-40 mins to 75 degrees. Word of warning that if you get one you'll need a big ass spanner and a pair of vice grips as the locking nut is 40mm across (got from Reece Plumbing). The thread was long enough that I could drill a 32 mm hole in the Aluminum Jiffy Box and it reached right through the keg holding the jiffy in place. Used the supplied rubber o-ring and tested overnight and it didn't leak a drop, no drops today either while brewing - I used silicone all around the Jiffy Box entrance too. Fit snug into the KK hole.

 

[angus_grant]

Nice to see that Green/Earth wire, dont see to many rigged right.
Nev

Just an install question: for people that are doing up a water-proof (or resistant) metal box enclosure like this one. I have the wiring join sitting above the element terminals so if water starts leaking, it will drip down to the bottom of the enclosure. The cable gang is one of the water-resistant ones, and the earth point is in the bottom right hand corner of the enclosure. You can see the bolt sitting outside the enclosure. I am tempted to drill some holes in the bottom to let liquid escape if it did end up leaking. This way, the box wouldn't fill up with liquid and eventually hit the terminals of the element. Thoughts?

I also wonder if I should solder the two wires together and use some heat-shrink in an effort to water-proof things a little more?

 

[Parks]

I also wonder if I should solder the two wires together and use some heat-shrink in an effort to water-proof things a little more?

Soldering 240V is a big no-no. At the amperage your element pulls it will melt.

Can't comment on the rest

 

[NickB]

Sorry Parks, you can solder 240V no problems at all. Just need to use a quality solder that's designed for 240V use (not the crap you buy from Jaycar/Dick's). I've soldered up mains that pull 100A+ no problems.

Download a copy of the AS3000 if you want to verify the standards...

Cheers

 

[Logman]

Just an install question: for people that are doing up a water-proof (or resistant) metal box enclosure like this one. I have the wiring join sitting above the element terminals so if water starts leaking, it will drip down to the bottom of the enclosure. The cable gang is one of the water-resistant ones, and the earth point is in the bottom right hand corner of the enclosure. You can see the bolt sitting outside the enclosure. I am tempted to drill some holes in the bottom to let liquid escape if it did end up leaking. This way, the box wouldn't fill up with liquid and eventually hit the terminals of the element. Thoughts?

Was thinking about this exact thing while brewing yesterday. When I originally put it together I got a few drops overnight, but after drying it they never came back - think I filled it with water to test too quickly after using the silicone.

So I thought about doing the same thing, just planned to drill one hole and maybe araldite some sort of cover over the hole that would let water out but still cover the hole from splashing in case it needs a clean or something - maybe split an inch or two of copper tubing in half and leave it open ended.

 

[Parks]

Sorry Parks, you can solder 240V no problems at all. Just need to use a quality solder that's designed for 240V use (not the crap you buy from Jaycar/Dick's). I've soldered up mains that pull 100A+ no problems.

Download a copy of the AS3000 if you want to verify the standards...

Cheers

I'll just get back in my box then