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Of course I was taking the piss, jeez don't get so melodramatic about it :rolleyes:

And if it makes you feel any better, I wouldn't know half the stuff I do (which isn't much mind you) if it wasn't for you and people like you putting their experience out there. ;)
 
one thing i would like to ask that i cant find is how do you raise the alcohol volume and still have a good tasting beer if possible. a couple of mates of mine aprently put in a ship load of sugar(not sure if that works) and my brother thought it tasted like total crap and i quote "i would rather pay $500 to get pissed than drink that crap" and sugestions will be welcome :icon_drunk:
 
Basically yeast ferments the sugars and produces alcohol and CO2.

On the most basic level - more fermentable sugar = more alcohol. This is only within a certain range - part of the reason being that yeast cannot tolerate too high an alcoholic environment so essentially they kill themselves. However just wacking in a shitload of basic sugar will make horrible bathtub beer and you may as well drink meths (cheaper, higher alcohol and less effort).

Additionally basic sugars dry and thin out the beer. Something like malt or malt extract will add to the body of the beer as body is related to unfermentable sugars and malt is only partially fermentable. Thus malt can be used to give more abv and maintain/increase the body. However the unfermentable sugars leave residual sweetness which may be balanced out with bittering hops and/or by drying out (with simple sugars for instance).

That (lots of malt + good yeast + simple sugars) is how high alcohol Belgian beer is made and prevented from becoming cloying. You can increase the ABV of your brews in a number of ways but once you start getting past around 6% (arbritrary figure so don't quote me exactly) it becomes much more of a balancing act and you need to treat the yeast well and ferment processes need to be schmik. People can make beers 18+% but they are usually complicated cellerable barley wines and not simple. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogfish_Head_Brewery)

An easy way if you are a KK brewer is to either add some extra sugar (preferably in the form of dried malt or liquid malt) or to make a toucan (two tins of whatever kit you use + yeast and amount of water to make only one kit). Otherwise you can drop the amount of water (say 18 L instead of 23) or a bit of all 3.

You can also add extra dextrose, extra malt and balance it with maltodextrin which adds body but no flavour or alcohol. Myself I'd recommend either the toucan method or extra malt and doing a boil with bittering hops as they will make better beer than dex, malt and maltodextrin. It depends how far you want to take it. Remember to balance flavour, body and bitterness if you want to avoid your friend's mistakes.

There is a thread on toucans containing loads of recipes as well as an article in the wiki section.
 
great info manticle will have a go at one once my next batch is bottled. one more thing (not to be anoying) the bottles i put my brew in are 640ml jim beam long necks (a fav of mine) i put two carbonation drops in each and still no bottle bombs so far, would it be a good or bad idea to keep doing this??? :huh:
 
great info manticle will have a go at one once my next batch is bottled. one more thing (not to be anoying) the bottles i put my brew in are 640ml jim beam long necks (a fav of mine) i put two carbonation drops in each and still no bottle bombs so far, would it be a good or bad idea to keep doing this??? :huh:


I'd recommend carbing a different way. 2 drops is recommended for 750 mL.

You could either bulk prime or you could buy one of those 3 measure scoops that has 330, 500 and 750 mL. Use dextrose and a funnel instead of drops and use 2 of the 330 scoops per bottle (660 is close enough). I got one from my local home brew shop (which I don't use) for next to nothing.
 
Of course I was taking the piss, jeez don't get so melodramatic about it :rolleyes:

When you post enough, you constantly get slammed by trolls, fo rno particular reason...hang about here long enough, and you'll find out why so many knowledgable brewers have either left the site altogether, or stick to dedicated threads (such as biab)....cos we get sick to death of those that aren't taking the piss. Which makes for a very fine line between humour and idiocy, and some hyper-sensitivity as a result....

edit; listen to manticle, he's got the goods. I've had enough in the meantime, and might take a week off to recallibrate...
 
Butters, you are THE MAN !!!
Your links are brilliant for new brewers.
Ignore the knockers.
 
Yeh, I've just got a bit of a strop on, atm....must be that time of month. :p
 
Send me all the piss, i'd take it for my bottling technique anyway. I dont Bulk but with my digital scales, the measures of each bottle individually are done to 0.1 grams accuracy for each bottles unique size by SWMBO who passes it over then I fill and cap them. I've never had such beautifuly consistent results to this level :D

Ive got a lovely SWMBO in that respect.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
you have a good point it would piss you off just alot of post and threads to search through that date 2002 but probably good fo me if thats what your talkin about
 
edit; listen to manticle, he's got the goods. I've had enough in the meantime, and might take a week off to recallibrate...


Any 'goods' I have come from reading (shock, horror) your articles (as well as some of the other articles in the wiki section), How to brew and asking the occasional dumb question (and having knowledgeable posters such as yourself, adam t, screwtop, BribieG and others) patiently replying.

It's a lot to take in at once but pretty much every question ever asked by a noob could be answered by the wiki articles. It's an invaluable resource. Mix that with Palmer and you could almost make the rest of the forum redundant...............

No wish to blow smoke up anyone's arse but this forum would be nowhere near as good without both knowledgeable brewers and knowledgeable brewers being helpful to newcomers.
 
hey guys a quick question the brew i have in at the moment has finished primary the FG is 1009 from yesterday to this morning would it be alright to test again tonight then bottle if nothing has changed(want to try another brew with what i have lernt here)
 
1009 sounds fine. Usually advisable to give it three consecutive days at the same gravity before bottling. The brew can also benefit from extra time in the fermenter after primary is complete as it gives the yeast a chance to tidy up.

You should be ok to bottle soon (tomorrow/next day-ish) but buying another fermenter so you can be patient AND brew is a good idea.
 
thanks for that wasnt quite sure, i will be buying another fermenter and other goodies when i go to the HBS but its an hour away as im in the country which sucks butt
 
so im doin a tucan(my first) Morgans draught and Coopers American pale ale.I picked up a packet of s-04 yeast as they only had one pack of deasent yeast, just wonderin if to just use the s-04 or that and one of the kit packs as well??? :unsure:
 
Hmm, touchy people sometimes.

Mate buy TWO more fermenters, that way you can have one beer always in primary, one always in secondary and one for bulk priming.

I dare you to ask a question about bulk priming :eek:
 
i think i value my life to much it would be good to see what the reaction would be though
 

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