Would be interested to know whether these clone kits actually produce a clone or just something which tastes similar but is still good in it's own right. Just like all the different variations on the same theme which each individual brewer comes up with claiming it's a clone - and maybe to their taste buds.
I like the idea of these kits as they can be an easy way for a new brewer to make something similar to what they like, but don't have full confidence that it will produce a clone which of course can then put the said homebrewers off making more and being more adventurous (not that I'm very adventurous).
I've never really understood the need to have a full perfect clone. As long as it's comparable in overall quality and is a very similar style it's enough for me. <snip>
Pretty much the same here. I did a 'clone' kit from the LHBS for a Becks, and while it wasn't Becks as I'd had it, it was certainly pleasing. If anything, I would have picked it over the commercial example because it had a bit more hop bite. Thats my experience with a 'clone kit', so hopefully yours goes well too.
Cheers - boingk
What's the advantage of getting a kit for that price, when you could do an extract brew and control the hopping for around the same price ? I'm about to embark on a JSGA clone, and I'm sure the cost won't be too different. Lets punch the numbers:
$6 for 60g hops
$15 for wheat malt
$12 for pale malt
$2 for 150g crystal malt
$0 for recultured yeast
So that's $35, a mere $4 more for a beer that I have more control over than a kit.
Jase, Interesting to see this comment. A few months ago we were discussing the similar, I think. Correct me if I am wrong. even more interesting that I was playing with beersmith just last night for something like one of these Amber Ales. Was toying with a partial with 2.4 kg of grain topped up with some LDME and the cost for 19 litres is $26 and for 22 litres $28 and thats allowing $1 for recultured yeast. Much better than a kit to boot, even get to control final colour and malt profiles.
Unterberg, the hop additions will change boiling 1 kg of malt in 5 lt of water as it will give you a preboil gravity of around 1070 for LDME, therfore your hop utilization will change. You should add enough malt to your boil to achieve a prebiol gravity of at least around your FG in order to get a better and mor predictable hop utilization. This is particularly useful for getting bitterness levels correct.
Cheers
Gavo.
Thanks. What I was getting to is this (hope its a bit clearer now):
Does the volume you do the bittering in matter if you have the same gravity? Meaning could I get the same bittering result if I achieve the same FG in eg 5l instead of 12l using the same amount of hops/schedule?
I wouldn't say AG has a high skill level. Its a fairly simple process and I see it as just being time consuming.
Yeah the kitchen stove is a killer. My first AG was done on the vintage electric stove with two pots, a 19l and 15l. Had to boil with the lids 90% on as it wouldn't boil otherwise and had to stand there the whole time controlling the boil overs. Didn't even get to add the yeast, the wort picked up some wild stuff the day after I brewed it!I have done one AG 15 lt so far and found the process fairly simple and the results very good (just tasted one yesterday :icon_drool2: ). Hardest part was that it was done on the kitchen stove (it is a pretty large five burner and double oven). But..... I will be waiting until I get my burner and a few other things together so I can do it outside.
AG can be done fairly simply without a lot of gear it just takes longer (mine took 3 1/2 hours, although abit like the army, hurry up and wait) but the results are great.
Cheers
Gavo.
bucket of death hahaha
bunnings fermenter with electric element shoved in the side anyone?
Enter your email address to join: