Is This Element Ok For A Hlt?

[Keifer]

Hey,

Im in the process of building my AG stand n gear and wanted to use this element for my ss 50ltr HLT, but am not sure and thought i'd ask before i drill a whopping hole in my HLT.
I bought it from Mitre10 for $16 and it's 1850-2200 watts.

1) Is this safe? do i need a residual current device fitted?
2) This should work with one of BrissyBrews temp controllers when the new ones come out?
3) Will this be ok for 50ltrs? do i need 2 of em ? looks kinda small

 

[lokpikn]

I used the hand held ellements in mine. I got a 50Lts stainless pot and had problems heating up the water quick enough for the sparge. It took about 90min to reach 80 Deg. So i went out and bougt another one.
First one was 2200 watts and the new one is 2400 watts. I now bring 45lts up to 80 deg in under 40 mins

 

[Screwtop]

Hey,

Im in the process of building my AG stand n gear and wanted to use this element for my ss 50ltr HLT, but am not sure and thought i'd ask before i drill a whopping hole in my HLT.
I bought it from Mitre10 for $16 and it's 1850-2200 watts.

1) Is this safe? do i need a residual current device fitted?
2) This should work with one of BrissyBrews temp controllers when the new ones come out?
3) Will this be ok for 50ltrs? do i need 2 of em ? looks kinda small

A tip from experience, these are not designed for the type of duty cycle required for heating the volume of water in a HLT, (meant for 3 - 4 min duty cycle to boil water) the socket and power cord get pretty warm and limp. Get a 1 inch BSP SS tank socket welded into your HLT and buy a 1 inch BSP screw in 2200W hot water element from yout local electrical wholesaler abt $50.00 you also wont have an odd shaped hole to repair in the HLT when you decide to replace the jug element.

Outside shows both element mounts
1" BSP with Junction box for cord connection
Inside, jug element is no longer used, when the shonky plastic base/seal develops a leak I'll have the crappy odd shaped hole patched.

 

[Keifer]

Awww thanks man, was hoping it would be ok, but i think it's best i spend some money on a good element..

 

[Screwtop]

Awww thanks man, was hoping it would be ok, but i think it's best i spend some money on a good element..

AB, your the one who has to trust your gear. Good decision.

 

[Justin]

Just a conflicting opinion here. I use two elements in my hlt basically the design you have there AB (you'll need to remove the thermostat assembly-mine didn't have it). I think you probably really do need two elements for speed issues, but mine have been working fine so far and I've been pleased. They do get warm but you'd expect that given what they do but they are the same elements as I have fulled out of a Fowlers (Canning) set, which are used for a legthy boil period so I don't thing long use periods should really worry them.

I agree that a welded socket and screw in element would be nice (or nicer) option but at the end of the day you have to find someone to do the welding and ultimately you're the one that has to be happy with the arrangement.

Basically, yes it will work. If you'd like to go a different set up then that's fine too. So really it's up to you.

FWIW, an RCD is a nice option and a good safeguard regardless of the element type, anytime really your mixing electricty and water. If your house is newish it may already have an RCD on the main board (have a look and check). Make sure you earth the elements onto your vessels so the RCD works quickly and properly, and basically it should be earthed anyway.

 

[Steve]

Just a conflicting opinion here. I use two elements in my hlt basically the design you have there AB. I think you probably really do need two for speed issues, but mine have been working fine so far and I've been pleased. They do get warm but you'd expect that given what they do.

I agree that a welded socket and screw in element would be nice (or nicer) option but at the end of the day you have to find someone to do the welding and ultimately you're the one that has to be happy with the arrangement.

Basically, yes it will work. If you'd like to go a different set up then that's fine too. So really it's up to you.

Mate of mine has the same Justin....two elements in a 50 litre stainless HLT and havent had any problems. They bought two $12 kmart kettles - dropped a brick on them to get the elements out.
Cheers
Steve

 

[lou]

yep i have that exact set up - with one element - it is a bit slow and i will probably up grade a t some point to 2

but it works a treat anyhow - with a separate thermostate attached

lou

 

[user 384]

I've attached a spreadsheet that will calculate the time to raise a volume of water from X degress C to Y degrees C. You can change the input field for volume of water (litres), element size (watts), start temp, finish temp and inefficiency (%) of heat transfer for your system. It's a bit crude, but should give a fai approximation of the size element you need.

Cheers
MAH

View attachment Watts.xls

 

[Keifer]

hmm im not sure now... some have had no probs with em..
I already have one smashed kettle, one more is only another $16 whereas a proper element is worth $50-$75.

It would only take ~1 hour to heat 50ltr up to 80c using two of the cheapies.. thanks MAH

Could i run two of these of a single circuit ?

 

[bugwan]

I've attached a spreadsheet that will calculate the time to raise a volume of water from X degress C to Y degrees C. You can change the input field for volume of water (litres), element size (watts), start temp, finish temp and inefficiency (%) of heat transfer for your system. It's a bit crude, but should give a fai approximation of the size element you need.

Cheers
MAH

Great post MAH, thanks for the simple calc. Based on these maths, you could bring enough water to strike/sparge temp for a 23ltr batch in under half an hour (with two 2400W elements). That's not too shabby...although the power bill will go through the roof

 

[Justin]

Could i run two of these of a single circuit ?

Nope, run an extension lead to another power point that is on a different circuit. You may get away with it but even if you do you'll be pushing the boundaries.

2400W=10amps

2X2400W-20 amps

Most power points are 10amp with a 10 amp circuit breaker, and I think they are wired with 15amp wire but I'm guessing now.

 

[chimera]

New houses have 16A circuit breakers which are easily reset if you overload them.
Older houses with old wiring...
If your house is over 40 years old and not rewired then chances are much of it runs on the old cotton wrapped or black rubber wire. That stuff was really only rated to 10A and esp with the black rubber stuff it tends to get quite hot when you run a full load through it.
Add to that entire houses were often times wired to only a couple of separate loops and a single low current lighting circuit.

 

[Justin]

Nice work Chimera, good to see someone answer who actually knows. Appreciate it. :beer:

 

[user 384]

New houses have 16A circuit breakers which are easily reset if you overload them.

True, but as already pointed out most GPO's are only 10amp, so even if you have a 16amp circuit, only run a maximum of 10amps from the one power point.

Cheers
MAH

 

[chimera]

very true - wall sockets are rated 10A, what a pain.

Anyone for 3-phase?

 

[sqyre]

Awesome posts...

I know what im building next...

I have a 32 amp socket in the shed for my welder...

Muhhhhaahahahahaahahaahaaaaa.... :lol: ................ :blink:

 

[fixa]

i have 2 of these elements mounted in a food grade bucket for my HLT.. It heated 24 litres of sparge water to 80 degrees in under 10 mins.
I ran both off separate circuits. Will post pics of it later in another thread.

 

[Ash in Perth]

10 minutes for 24L to 80 degrees.. thats fast...i need more elements.

 

[fixa]

yeah. i was surprised. didn't run out to the meter box to watch the wheel spinning though....