Iodophor

[RobW]

On the same topic does anybody use "Sanitise" as sold by Grain & Grape and know what's in it? It's advertised as no rinse.

 

[Justin]

Yeah, depends on my mood and time Warren as to whether I wash the foam out. That's part of the reason I shake it and leave it, shake and leave. It lets the foam settle-subside and I pour out the sanitiser. If I'm in the kitchen I will sometimes boil a kettle of water and pour in a few hundered mils to swish around to kill the foam but other times I don't worry about the foam. Makes little difference I think.

As for giving a wash out with straight tap water, well you could do that but in my opinion you run the risk of undoing the sanitisers work. I know you get away with it but I'd rather not do it. Even my boiled water from the kettle trick I don't classify as sterile water. It's better than tap water and it's more than sufficient in my books but I don't think it's actually sterile water unless it's been boiled for 10-15mins.

Anyway, all our techniques work. Do what your comfortable with and kick back and enjoy the brew day.


NOW for real foaming action-fill a fermenter with homebrand Napisan (3 lid fulls) and then hit it with the hose :blink: . The first time I used that I learnt not to fill it with aeration from the hose and use that much napisan. I made a column of foam coming straight out of the fermenter that rose nearly 2 foot straight up and sat there. I'd managed to get about 4" of water in the bottom. Would have liked to have the camera.

Cheers, JD

 

[Justin]

I think I recall reading somewhere 2mins contact time for iodophor at 1:1000 but don't trust me on that. I might be thinking of 70% EtOH (ethanol) with the 2 min contact time.

That's why I do the shake every 5 mins or so anyway. Keep the sides wet and it drags the process out longer which can't be a bad thing.

 

[T.D.]

Be aware that the contact time for sanitation is related to dilution strength.

At the strength we use, 1ml/litre it must be left in contact for several minutes (12mins?) to be effective.
It isn't simply a case of spray on/rinse off - done.
I think there was a link in the previous thread somewhere that led to a table showing the times.

[post="93211"][/post]​

On the label of my bottle it says at 1ml/L it needs 20 mins contact, but I have also heard that this is way longer than is necessary. I have read somewhere that even 60 seconds is enough contact time!! Don't know if I trust that (its probably correct, but 15-20mins is not a big deal). Can't remember where I read this though - it was an interview with the CEO of some firm that makes the stuff. He has a PhD in microbiology and he seemed to know his stuff. If I find it I'll post it. It was a very interesting read.

 

[T.D.]

Here it is.

View attachment IODOPHOR.htm

 

[warrenlw63]

you're asking for trouble leaving a glucose laden beer/iodophor mix in the fermenter and allowing that to remain exposed to the microscopic organisms that float around in the air.

[post="93209"][/post]​

Relax TL. :blink:

I just swish the beer around, rinse out the iodophor foam. Then fill with wort from the kettle about 5 mins later.

They'd be pretty hungry little organisms to do much in that time frame. Carboys are glass, boiling water could crack them and I agree with Justin tap water is more or less undoing the benefits of the iodophor.

Think I'll steer clear of the urine rinse for the fermenter though. :lol:

Warren -

 

[Stuster]

I knew I'd seen something about this before. According to Wortgames

From Fix:

0.078% (12.5ppm free iodine): D value: 5 minutes
0.156% (25.0ppm free iodine): D value: 3 minutes

The D value is the time taken to reduce microbial level by a factor of ten (ie double the D value gives a reduction factor of 100 and so on).

Taken from this thread

I use it as well, seems good stuff to me, though I always rinse it with tap water. I know it is not the perfect thing in terms of infection, but I hate the taste of iodine and I haven't been game to try leaving it. Too much experience drinking iodine water while camping and hiking. Yuck.

 

[Justin]

Stuster, have a read of T.D.'s link and you might be pleasantly surprised to see a contact time of 60 sec's and no detectable iodine taste at normal concentrations-even in distilled water.

An interesting article, worth your reading.

Cheers, JD

 

[pint of lager]

RIP George Fix, Ph.D. He had a doctorate in maths, but fortunately for us brewers, he took up beermaking and applied his knowledge and skills to homebrewing and writing books.

"Principles of Brewing Science" is available, G&G usually stock it and is great for brewers that like more technical information.

"An Analysis of Brewing Techniques" which the figures quoted are taken from is out of print. If anyone has a a copy lying around they don't want, let me know.

Stuster, to ease your mind about off flavours, follow the correct dilution rates and contact times, allow the solution to drain, fill the fermenter up with water and do a blind taste test.

 

[Stuster]

OK, you've convinced me, I'll give the no-rinse method a test.

But not convinced about the contact time quoted in that article. From another link which quotes Fix, G.J. and Fix, L.A., 1997, An Analysis of Brewing Techniques.

Iodophor - 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) or 1/2 fluid oz. per 5 gallons.* The manufacturers of Iodophor suggest that a contact time of only two minutes is sufficient. Fix and Fix (1997) note, however, that in practice a contact time of five minutes is required for proper sanitization especially if spore-forming yeast are present. Fix and Fix also point out that Iodophor should not be employed at elevated temperatures; the sanitizing power of Iodophor decreases at temperatures above room temperature. Iodophor does not require rinsing and may be air dried. At the recommended concentration Iodophor is not harmful to stainless steel. Iodophor is Iodine-based and can permanently discolor tubing and other equipment, particularly plastic equipment.

I must say, the first couple of times, I used iodophor with hot water, but no more.

 

[Airgead]

Another positive thing with idophor - according to something I saw a few weeks ago on the ABC, residual comtamination with iodine (the active ingredient) will provide enough residual iodine to prevent deficiency.

Apparently we all used to get enough from iodine contamination in milk but about 10 years ago the dairies switched from iodine to chlorine as it was cheaper and since then iodine deficiency has become a problem.

Not only handy but good for you as well!

 

[DrewCarey82]

Another reason why beer is a deity to us all.

 

[Ross]

On the same topic does anybody use "Sanitise" as sold by Grain & Grape and know what's in it? It's advertised as no rinse.

[post="93213"][/post]​

RobW

Sanitise is a true non rinse sanitser - Non foaming, totally colourless, odourless & tasteless, even in more concentrated mixing. Sterilises most things on contact, but 7 mins needed for full sanitation. Unfortunately it's expensive - Hence I buy it in it's concentrated form @ $20 a litre, which can be made up to 1000 L (1gm/L)

Cheers Ross

 

[RobW]

On the same topic does anybody use "Sanitise" as sold by Grain & Grape and know what's in it? It's advertised as no rinse.

[post="93213"][/post]​

RobW

Sanitise is a true non rinse sanitser - Non foaming, totally colourless, odourless & tasteless, even in more concentrated mixing. Sterilises most things on contact, but 7 mins needed for full sanitation. Unfortunately it's expensive - Hence I buy it in it's concentrated form @ $20 a litre, which can be made up to 1000 L (1gm/L)

Cheers Ross

[post="93251"][/post]​

Thanks Ross. I remember that thread now - Hy-San?

 

[warrenlw63]

Hy-San?

[post="93263"][/post]​

Cold Chisel song isn't it? B)

Warren -

 

[Ross]

On the same topic does anybody use "Sanitise" as sold by Grain & Grape and know what's in it? It's advertised as no rinse.

[post="93213"][/post]​

RobW

Sanitise is a true non rinse sanitser - Non foaming, totally colourless, odourless & tasteless, even in more concentrated mixing. Sterilises most things on contact, but 7 mins needed for full sanitation. Unfortunately it's expensive - Hence I buy it in it's concentrated form @ $20 a litre, which can be made up to 1000 L (1gm/L)

Cheers Ross

[post="93251"][/post]​

Thanks Ross. I remember that thread now - Hy-San?

[post="93263"][/post]​

That's the stuff - wouldn't use anything else...

 

[Bazza]

Hey Ross
what's in this "sanitise"? It's good to know what you're putting your hands in/breathing/pouring down your sink etc as it could have harmful effects on your health and the environment.
Cheers
Bazza

 

[altstart]

Hi Bazza
I get Hy-San from the same source as Ross. The guy who sells it is a homebrewer he puts a small amount in his beers. Diluted 1mil to a litre he drinks a couple of glasses a day he has been doing this for a few years now with no ill effects. As a side issue he showed me a study that shows that this stuff has a 99% kill rate with Avian bird flu. Ill see if i can get a copy of this study and post it here.
Cheers Altstart

 

[Ross]

Hey Ross
what's in this "sanitise"? It's good to know what you're putting your hands in/breathing/pouring down your sink etc as it could have harmful effects on your health and the environment.
Cheers
Bazza

[post="93376"][/post]​

Been posted before, but as you ask:

Hysan H2O2 12.0%
Colloidal Silver <0.030 gm/L
Hydrous Oxide to 100%

It is used as a water treatment & is compatible with all in-organic water soluble fertilisers - So I doubt it causes any harm to the enviroment like some chemicals

 

[Wortgames]

I have a bottle of Morgan's Sanitize here, which is probably similar (if not exactly the same) - it lists its contents as Hydrogen peroxide (2.95%), silver ions, stabiliser and distilled water.

The thing I am uncomfortable with is the general lack of information - how long is the diluted mixture effective for, how much contact time is required and even how long is a bottle good for? Does it 'fade' or is my 3 year old bottle still good?!

There's very little info on any bottles I have seen (where did you get your 7 minutes from Ross?) and the fact that it is odourless, colourless, foamless and everything-else-less means it seems like an act of blind faith to use it!