Input on a Mosaic and Cascade Pale ale

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Tony121 said:
Sorry, to clarify I meant is it say 3g/L total for mosaic and cascade hops, or 3g/L for each hop, therefore equaling 6g/L total?
Total, but 3+3=6g/L will be fine too.
 
Thanks to all. I will be doing this brew soon. Once a fermentor is free. Ill have a try at 3g/lt for cascade. Bitter up with something else. Flavor with mosaic and cascade at 5min and glame out
 
Fendercaster said:
Looking at putting the following recipe down soon. Itll hopefully be the makings of my house beer.

0.25kg crystal
0.2kg carapils
2kg LDM
0.5kg Dextrose
20g Mosaic 10g cascade @60min
20g cascade @ 30min
10g cascade + 10g mosaic @ 10min
10g cascade + 10g mosaic @ flame out.
US05 yeast
Dry Hop 15g cascade and 10g mosaic at day 5.
Approx 5.2%
IBUs 40.
Just wanna see any input. But follow these reasoning as to why.
Extract with grain brewer.
Simple and tasty brew that will be a regular.
I like this hop pairing.
1st time picking timings for my brew.
Dextrose to bump alc% and dry it up a little.
Cheers all. Gope your brews are coming along well
depends what beer you are wanting to end up with. That will produce a nice easy drinking beer a bit like say 150 lashes pale ale. In my over-hopped opinion, a 25 gram dry hop is hardly worth doing. My summery pale ale that did very well at my brew club's recent comp has 130 grams of hops in the dry hop to give you some reference. Your nose might be more sensitive than mine though. These days if people talk about a "big" hop aroma it will normally require 6g/l to achieve at a minimum. But plenty of fine beers are not dry hopped at all. With regards to subbing the mosaic at 60 minutes for a clean bittering hop, it really depends how much beer you are making. maybe you only want to buy a packet of cascade and a packet of mosaic at a time. if you buy a special bittering hop, you might only use 10 grams of it per brew, and say it came in a 100 gram packet, then without a vacuum sealing device those hops are going to taste like stale bread by the time you get the 10th brew. I don't think there is anything wrong with that hop schedule.
 
Coodgee said:
depends what beer you are wanting to end up with. That will produce a nice easy drinking beer a bit like say 150 lashes pale ale. In my over-hopped opinion, a 25 gram dry hop is hardly worth doing. My summery pale ale that did very well at my brew club's recent comp has 130 grams of hops in the dry hop to give you some reference. Your nose might be more sensitive than mine though. These days if people talk about a "big" hop aroma it will normally require 6g/l to achieve at a minimum. But plenty of fine beers are not dry hopped at all. With regards to subbing the mosaic at 60 minutes for a clean bittering hop, it really depends how much beer you are making. maybe you only want to buy a packet of cascade and a packet of mosaic at a time. if you buy a special bittering hop, you might only use 10 grams of it per brew, and say it came in a 100 gram packet, then without a vacuum sealing device those hops are going to taste like stale bread by the time you get the 10th brew. I don't think there is anything wrong with that hop schedule.
Thanks Coodgee,
I think im in your boat of an overhopper.
I recently did a west coast IPA green flash extarct clone. I thought even the dry hops in that could be raised. I do use different hops regularly so i may sub for ones i may have. Ill keep you posted.
 
I ended up going with something similar as to what i had originally posted. The brew was nice but i feel next time ill probably drop the IBUs, this is a house pale i was trying to create. Ill also ramp the dry additions then to close to 40g-50g each. Get that aroma going. Since then i have played with my dry hopping amounts but i have also moved over to all grain since too.
 

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