Husky's Biab Brew Rig

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This is what I found after brew day:


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Wort tastes normal and colour is still like straw. No issues heating through each step either.
Must be due to the material in the wort as It was flowing white.
Have taken to the element with a scourer and not sure if it will clean up.
The elements in the kettle suffered a similar fate although not as bad. Definatly something about this brew. Not had an issue like this before.

Perhaps the low starting mash temp of 52 degrees? Or the acidulated malt? Anyone shed some light?


cheers.

When this burnings happening I clean with grinder using a synthetic rust removing disk. :ph34r: Then finish wiv napisan and green scotchbrite scourer. :ph34r:

I mainly brew lagers. This happens with these elemnets all the time in a rims tube. It seems to only be at the lower steps. Now I do infusion mash up to the 60's rest. Then step from there with the rims.
 
Too much flour from the crush by the looks Husky. Perhaps the best way to avoid scorching on the element is to recirc, for some time with out the element on, until the liquor runs straw colour and then use the element.
 
I did recirc for quite a while before switching the element on. About 20 mins at 52(possibly why I get a slightly sour taste as well). Turned the element on and once I reached 63 degrees the colour changed from white to straw.
Used the same mill gap and all. Only difference really was that last time used JW ale and this time used Whey Pils. Also the starting temp of 52 instead of my usual 65 odd.
Im sure the element will clean up. Soaking in Sodium Perc atm. Will get the grinder and polyflan wheel onto it next week(used to polish S/S welds at work)
Time to read up omn the chemistry of what is happening early on in the mash I think.
Would have spent alot on time at 52 recirculating to clear up enough to ramp the temperature up I think.
 
Waiting for fermenter to free up after the current lager so no brewing for another coupe of weeks. Finally fittes some switches to the electrical cabinet.
RIMS element cleaned up with a polishing wheel on the grinder.
New PT100 probe arrived
Finally started on the keg freezer too.
Brew stand partially drawn, just need to get it fabricated now. Might have a crack in the shed if I acn borrow a TIG.


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I have been very slack and slow to make progress of late. A few things have changed since last update.
Made a brew stand. Stupidly out of 50x3 stainless steel and not 50x1.6 It is one heavy unit! Have a bracket temporarily mounted until I decide exactly where I want it installed.

The brew stand is big enough for 3V with a HERMS pot which I think is the path I will eventually take, however I cant fully commit as yes because I like the idea of a single vessel brewery.

Have attached some current pictures of a vienna lager brew day. System running very well getting 80% efficiancy and nice clear wort. Vert repeatable OG targets.

Next job is to get rid of the ball valves and replace with some butterfly valves. Also trying to complete the keg setup. Should hopefully have some pics of that shortly.

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Finally had some time in the shed this weekend, and now have a working keg setup. Still plenty of work to do but the basics are there. Still need to mount temp controller, make drip tray paint, add more taps. I found out how much fun it is not drilling large holes in stainless steel!


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is that PID controller a cheap one from ebay? if so does it work ok?

I have been very slack and slow to make progress of late. A few things have changed since last update.
Made a brew stand. Stupidly out of 50x3 stainless steel and not 50x1.6 It is one heavy unit! Have a bracket temporarily mounted until I decide exactly where I want it installed.

The brew stand is big enough for 3V with a HERMS pot which I think is the path I will eventually take, however I cant fully commit as yes because I like the idea of a single vessel brewery.

Have attached some current pictures of a vienna lager brew day. System running very well getting 80% efficiancy and nice clear wort. Vert repeatable OG targets.

Next job is to get rid of the ball valves and replace with some butterfly valves. Also trying to complete the keg setup. Should hopefully have some pics of that shortly.

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I like the look of your stand. You make that yourself?


I wish. Designed and drew it but had a mate make it up in exchange for design favours.Only had to supply material and beers.
I will be welding on various brackets etc before doing a mechanical polish.
 
is that PID controller a cheap one from ebay? if so does it work ok?

Yes mate, it is a $20 ebay one. Works well, has the same functions and menus as the more expensive Auber unit. Just wish I got the ramp soak model. Its on the to do list.
 
Sic setup Husky and gday all. Hoping I can jump in here and ask for some suggestions for heating element rods as not too far of the topic of conversation. Am new to the BIAB coming from bottling extract brews so on my way up I suppose. Started threading/shinning some nasty bits of steel pipe having seen this principle of heating/re-circulating else where though after finding this thread, I'm the better man for it and just clicked confirm purchase for the brewershardware rims tube plus some bits including the 1' NPS element adaptor. Bit trigger happy though thought a 240 element to suit shouldnt be too hard to find? Google searches are taking me to omega, watco etc. Are these overkill? Any Australian distributors anyone can recommend? After reading this thread it seems the cheapys are prone to blow outs so, and I'm sure any amount of money could be spent though any recommendations in the middle field? Cheers (have a mountain of Q's re-how to plug this in and begin building a PID controller though am sure there's specific forums else where on that)
 
husky said:
Finally had a chance to test out my new setup. It is now a BIAB with RIMS single vessel system although now the BIAB bag is not required. I did use it for the last brew as it still amkes it easier to handle the spent grain.
Brewed an AIPA with 7.5kg grain bill and mash temp held spot on with only 0.1 degree deviation. With the full volume mash I was able to run almost full flow through the march pump and rims.

Points of note:

GOOD

Beautiful clear wort into kettle. I realise this doesnt nessecerely improve the beer but it was one of my aims with the new setup.

Easily maintained mash temp

Alot less trub in the kettle. Was worried about this going through the plate chiller as I didn't get a good whirlpool going. I guess alot of stuff gets gaught up in the grain bed. Only had 2L kettle trub after the boil of which I used 1.5L in a starter for the next brew.

Absolutly no scorching of the RIMS element

More toys to play with

BAD

Lower efficiency. Down to 74% instead of my usual 79%. Could be because of the high gravity mash as well 1.065 predicted. Only managed 1.060. This could also have been because the mash was overflowing the inner pot for the first half hour without me noticing. I raised the inner slightly to prevent this which ensured all recirc liquor went bach through the grain bed and not over the side. Will know to watch for this next time.

Lots more cleaning



Overall I think I have added a bit more time to brew day. Will ahve to wait and see if the brews benefit. I think the plate chiller will help for my hoppy brews but I think I will still no chill when it is convenient. It was harder trying to sync having yeast starters ready for the end of brew day. Better planning will help this.


Improvments planned:

Really need to make a brew stand

A high volume wort return setup

Higher responce PT100 probe

Perhaps a second pump to ged a really good whirl pool going



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Gday Husky, man I hate asking dumb questions but not even sure what this things is called to look it up myself: Can I ask what is the suspended cup (3rd pic from the top), on end of re-circ outlet (i'm taking is where it's attached) in your kettle, and if that is infact where it's mounted, what it's purpose is? Cheers
 
Hey mate, Its a wort return dish used to gently return the wort back to the top of the mash while recirculating. I dont really notice any difference when I just use the silicone hose to return to the mash as long as the flow rate is low enough.
cheers,
 
husky said:
Hey mate, Its a wort return dish used to gently return the wort back to the top of the mash while recirculating. I dont really notice any difference when I just use the silicone hose to return to the mash as long as the flow rate is low enough.

cheers,
Thanks bud. Bit of a belated reply but on that point of returning wort to mash, and sorry if this is discussed elsewhere, can I ask in your experience do you reckon too much agitation of the grain (not splashing) has a bad effect? Say for example not allowing grain to settle? Soon to start step mashing with rims add on, pending some pid bits, and a heads up would be appreciated. Cheers
 
razz said:
Too much flour from the crush by the looks Husky. Perhaps the best way to avoid scorching on the element is to recirc, for some time with out the element on, until the liquor runs straw colour and then use the element.
Hmm,I would agree, I think the "white" colour could be due to a possible recirculation blockage and the white colour being the flour which is not being recirculated ,remaining in suspension then scorching the element.
Maybe a bit of manual stirring to get a more even mix during recirculation will help?
Bugga,just noticed the difference in the post dates,gotta clean or get new glasses......
 
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