technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
@Matt - totally agree w Pratty.
CFCs depend entirely on the chilling medium that absorbs the heat. As your target temp approaches the temp of the chilling medium (ie: tap water) the efficiency (read: speed or final temp) of the CFC drops away dramatically. So a large increase in time or volume doesn't make a big difference; whereas dropping the temp of the chilling medium away from the target temp regains a large amount of efficiency. Hence you can easily drop your target temp further or increase your flow rate. Or both if you drop the temp of the chilling medium enough.
Fwiw, the system I choose to run is:
Run starsan thru the pump and CFC in the late stages of the boil (the acid is good to remove any copper oxide residue in the CFC).
Gravity drain most of the starsan.
Recirculate wort thru the CFC back into the kettle at flameout. This drops the temp in the kettle to below 80*C within 5 mins. Another 5-10 mins drops it below 66*C - whirlpool hops go in now and pump/CFC turned off. Steeps for ~20-30mins. Whirlpool in the last 10-15mins.
Turn pump and CFC water back on and kettle is drained into FV.
I do it like that to get a rapid halt to bittering - to hopefully get more reproducible recipes.
The drop to 66-ish is to drop below to volitization point of most of the hops oils. Great theory but I'm not sure if I'm losing out in other chemical reactions. So far so good.
Temp into FV is around 21*C in January. If I need lower I commonly need to dilute out to hit target OG, so I just add a few litres of tap water (K&K's do it so why can't I?!). Generally will get it to 17-18*C fairly easily.
CFCs depend entirely on the chilling medium that absorbs the heat. As your target temp approaches the temp of the chilling medium (ie: tap water) the efficiency (read: speed or final temp) of the CFC drops away dramatically. So a large increase in time or volume doesn't make a big difference; whereas dropping the temp of the chilling medium away from the target temp regains a large amount of efficiency. Hence you can easily drop your target temp further or increase your flow rate. Or both if you drop the temp of the chilling medium enough.
Fwiw, the system I choose to run is:
Run starsan thru the pump and CFC in the late stages of the boil (the acid is good to remove any copper oxide residue in the CFC).
Gravity drain most of the starsan.
Recirculate wort thru the CFC back into the kettle at flameout. This drops the temp in the kettle to below 80*C within 5 mins. Another 5-10 mins drops it below 66*C - whirlpool hops go in now and pump/CFC turned off. Steeps for ~20-30mins. Whirlpool in the last 10-15mins.
Turn pump and CFC water back on and kettle is drained into FV.
I do it like that to get a rapid halt to bittering - to hopefully get more reproducible recipes.
The drop to 66-ish is to drop below to volitization point of most of the hops oils. Great theory but I'm not sure if I'm losing out in other chemical reactions. So far so good.
Temp into FV is around 21*C in January. If I need lower I commonly need to dilute out to hit target OG, so I just add a few litres of tap water (K&K's do it so why can't I?!). Generally will get it to 17-18*C fairly easily.