Hops, Hops, Hops

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And noble hops are too expensive to use to bitter in any beer that I'm able to brew with the temp control I can manage.

As a result of all this, I tend towards APA, along with dark beers (brown, dark ale, stout etc) when summer is around. I have the air con in my bed room and store brews in there to avoid a 30 degree ester bomb (incidentally the name and nature of my youngest anklebiter).

I use noble hops pretty well exclusively from 15 minutes boil down to dry hop. They will jump the cost of any brew, but they do turn out to be special brews.

With the new world hops, I'll use them for bitterness, as a means to reduce the per litre cost of a brew. However, I will do a calc on qbrew, and when I get to the bitterness I want, then proceed to reduce the bittering hop quantity by 5 or ten grams (down about 5 IBU), just to allow for errors. I don't no-chill - as I did once and ended up with really bitter beer.

However, I do flood my APA with lots of new world hops at 0 min or dry hop, because they have such fantastic flavour. Noble provides smoothness. I'll tend to use the correct hops for british style beers (and correct malts too).

The other reason for new world in APA, especially at this temp, is that they hide esters better. Just a thought.

Finally - fave hops are Citra and Nelson Sauvin. But you need to use them correctly. I used them right first time (accidental), and it worked out some great brews.

Cheers,

Goomba


Mate.......... to bitter a german pils with 20g or a 15% AA hop and then have to hop it up late with noble hops will make an inferiour beer, but will use about the same anount of hops as if you simply bitter with noble hops at 40 min and no more.

you may save $1 or $2 on a 23 liter batch....... are you really that poor?

and you then said you hop it up late in your APA's so lots of hops for a brew cant be too much of an issue.

??
 
Hey Ya'll
You don't say where you're from Nashmandu but I detect another Yankee wannabe. ;)
Honesty IS the best policy mate. Takes a big man to admit he is wrong on a public forum. Are you big enough? This forum can be very forgiving to those who admit to a little dummyspit. :)

TP
 
Mate.......... to bitter a german pils with 20g or a 15% AA hop and then have to hop it up late with noble hops will make an inferiour beer, but will use about the same anount of hops as if you simply bitter with noble hops at 40 min and no more.

you may save $1 or $2 on a 23 liter batch....... are you really that poor?

and you then said you hop it up late in your APA's so lots of hops for a brew cant be too much of an issue.

??

Fair call Tony - I'm not that poor most of the time. It's more the fact that I really can't make a pilsner or german style lager. Someone asked me to make one, if they spotted some ingredients, and I said "I can't, need a fridge, temprite and time". So this opinion is (apart from being written whilst consuming said product) more an observation that because I can't make a pilsner, I don't use noble for bittering. It would be different if I could make a pilsner for that self-same reason. My apologies if I wasn't as clear as I should be with what I wrote.

So using noble to bitter - it isn't worth it, because even using nottingham yeast, which is fairly neutral, will still leach some esters, even minor, and IMHO as soon as an ester hits a beer, noble hops on their own at the back end, get dominated by the esters.

Whereas (and I'm talking only anecdotally, not scientifically), new world hops tend to be okay with esters. I tend to use only 10 or so grams of high AA% just to bitter, and hold back the balance of new world and noble hops for flavour additions, and then the smoothness of the noble hops really comes to the fore, for what I brew. I then can use as much noble hops for a whack of flavour as I feel. This is what I meant when I said "I use it as a cheap bittering". Hold the nobles for later.

But, if I ever can brew pilsners, I'll use your suggestion - it certainly sounds easier at the very least, and I agree totally with it being within style. And I've experienced harsh bitterness from overuse of high AA% hops. Realistically, I never use a hop higher than Nelson Sauvin or Citra which are 11.4 and 11.1%, so certainly not as high as some.

Goomba
 
If you are buying a 90g pack of Saaz to make a Bo Pils, you need to use the whole pack for one batch. That's $10.

There's only $10 worth of grain in it.

I get half my IBUs from PoR (90 minutes) and the rest from 45g of Saaz used for flavour and aroma.

Then I can make 2 batches from one hop pack and the taste difference is insignificant enough that it would only matter for a comp.

Yeah, it's only a $5 saving - but it's five bucks worth of negligible difference.
 
Lyall (the winner of the Nats with his Boh Pils) had a Pils at the last Pine Rivers PUBS meeting and it was great, made with BSaaz and Czech Saaz - he's a Kiwi anyway so likes to fly the old flag :p

You wouldn't have a recipe for that one would you mate?? Or something close anyway.

Looking to do some long time lagering... and nice bo pils would be great.
 
Noble hops on their own give a really nice smooth bitterness. I buy regular use hops in bulk so that I don't need to concern myself with 90g packs anymore and don't freak out if I need to use a bit. The amount of tett required to hit 40 IBU at 60 mins isn't much.

If I can taste PoR in a single addition beer (and I can) I don't want it competing with my tettnanger.
 
You wouldn't have a recipe for that one would you mate?? Or something close anyway.

Looking to do some long time lagering... and nice bo pils would be great.

AFAIK it's straight Weyermann Pils, Motueka first and Saaz last and the Urquell liquid yeast. And he does lager for at least a month. I'll hit him up for the quantities when I see him next.
 
cheers mate... got a lagering fridge now so want to put it into action ASAP
 
I did same as Nick with my last brew - A Kiwi blonde. I had a heap of hop remnants to use up so I whacked in 100g of mixed BSaaz, Hallertau Aroma etc at 20 mins. However I had put in 10g of Northern Brewer at the beginning to encourage break formation. The hop aroma in the fermenter was divine.

The megabreweries do this, AFAIK they use a very small amount of hops in the boil for break formation then the main hops (such as they are) get added as an extract on the way to the packing line. And not just isohop, the extract also contains some flavour and aroma - Thirsty Boy would know.


cheers i have a few left over hops and some of them did not want to use again in a brew (chinook) but will try this just to use them up.
 
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