Got My Boiler

[agro]

I just picked up an old electric copper boiler for a reasonable price (considering the alternatives).

I will be disassembling to remove the rust, clean it up and to replace the tap with a stainless jobby. Any suggestions on what to 'boil' in it that will

a. remove any detergents etc that are probably hanging around in there.

b. not eat the element while it is cleaning

I was thinking a cup of viniger in the boiler (with water) or possibly Bycarb.

To be used as a hlt.

Agro.

 

[Doc]

I'd put caustic in it.
Get the ESB keg and line cleaner.
Add to hop tap water in the boiler, turn it on and let it boil.
Then a nylon scrubbing brush should get anything off.

Looks great.

Beers,
Doc

 

[agro]

Thanks Doc - I'll do that.

I think it will come up well once I strip the rust of the stand, prime and paint it. I'm thinking coach black for the stand which will work well for the rest of my long term 'brew art' plans.

The only will be the dodgy corroded aluminium lid that came with it. I will replace the lid with stainless or similar at some stage and throw the aluminium lid as I don't like the corroded aluminium look.

Cheers
Agro.

 

[timmy]

Just like my HLT.

I stripped out all the pipework for the drain, It was all rotten looking brass with lead solder throughout., Replaced with poly fittings, pipe and a ball valve.

Used as a kettle twice before deciding to go gas but does a great job as the HLT.

 

[Gerard_M]

Use the Keg & Line Cleaner @ 1% in solution with water, of course gloves & goggles too. Nice score.
Cheers
Gerard

 

[timmy]

also forgot, that big thig with holes covering the element is actually chrome plated brass with lead solder on it as well, just unscrew it and leave it out. Some nasty stuff can grow under there.

 

[agro]

Thanks for the advice guys - I'll do just that

I'm even considering sleeving the thing with some soft insulation and Timber slats... More of a 'classic' brewery look and feel.

Agro.

 

[Mr Bond]

I'm even considering sleeving the thing with some soft insulation and Timber slats... More of a 'classic' brewery look and feel.

[post="110253"][/post]​

NOICE

 

[crozdog]

Agro,

That looks very similar to one I recently picked up from a mate up the blue mountains. I haven't had the chance to clean it up yet, so thanks everyone for the info. :beer:

Do you (or anyone else) know what wattage the element is in one of these units? I'm curious as the unit I've got was hard wired into the wall & I don't want to fry my wiring if I put a 10A plug onto it when it should have a 15A plug.

I'm in Croydon Park & together with a mate we're gathering the bits to start down the AG route. Like you, I intend to use it as a HLT as my mate has a 100L pot to boil up in. Seeing as we're close, could we catch up some time? send me a PM if that's OK.

Cheers

Crozdog

 

[agro]

CrozDog,

I'm in Croydon. Given Croydon Park isn't all that far away its ounds like a good opportunity to catch up and share knowledge/experiences/beers.

The boiler I have has a compliance plate on the side with the relevent details. I will note this down and post it tonight.


I'll send a PM for a catchup

Cheers
Agro.

 

[agro]

The boiler is 2400 watts and I believe it. That means it's pulling a full 10 amps, I had it plugged into a regular extension lead and the lead did get warm so it may be pulling slightly more than 10 amps. As I have a 15 amp power point outside I will pick up a 15 amp lead for it.

I will be wiring up the following control system for the boiler

I plan on getting a blank panel for the clipsal block to mount the dixel controller, and an rcd so I have once closer to the brewery. The power point and switches above are rated at 10 amps so I should probably put a 10 amp fuse in there as well.

Agro.

 

[Tony]

sorry for the hijac but just a quick question for doc.

Is the ESB keg cleaner just a causitc solution?

I bought some and it works great but i can get 15KG bags of caustic from work :angry:

cheers

Oh the boiler looks a winner mate.

keep us posted on its progress.

I love a work in progress, exciting hey

 

[Doc]

sorry for the hijac but just a quick question for doc.

Is the ESB keg cleaner just a causitc solution?

I bought some and it works great but i can get 15KG bags of caustic from work :angry:

That is what I have been informed it is from a very reliable source. Not sure of the solution % though.

Beers,
Doc

 

[Tony]

cheers mate

i might get it tested in the lad at work to find out h34r:

then i can make my own

cheers again

 

[Gerard_M]

Tony
The MSDS for that product is available here
Cheers
Gerard

http://www.cleantec.com.au/pdf/fhs/dairy%2...0auto-kleen.pdf

 

[PostModern]

i might get it tested in the lad at work to find out h34r:

[post="110449"][/post]​

I really hope you're testing this in a lab

 

[agro]

How certain are we the drain and piping are brass ? Removing these will be painful. If they are I will do so... I probably should just in case.

Jason.

 

[Jez]

I've got one of these copper boilers as well Agro (2 as a matter of fact).

If you do want to remove the pipes etc - use a MAPPS blowtorch from Bunnings & the solder will melt very quickly & the pipe & tap will pull straight out. Then heat the hell out of the brass drain in the centre of the boiler (it's in 2 pieces & unscrews in the centre), clamp on some vice grips to each piece & eventually it will unscrew. Just keep heating it until it does (& try not to knock the hot stainless around it too much, mine was a bit out of shape when I finished because I got impatient) -- BTW Thanks to Timmy a while back for the pics & advice on how to do this.

I've drilled a hole in the side of both of mine & put a stainless ball valve on & am in the process of sealing up the old drain hole. Will post a few pics once it's done.

Jez

 

[agro]

That sounds the go. I was looking for a reason to buy a blowtorch to solder my immersion coil. This could be it

I was wondering where to mount the sensor for the temperature controller. How does mounting a sealed copper pipe containing the sensor where the current drain is sound - this would put the sensor into the centre of the water mass - albiet it would be dry inside the copper pipe.

I would expect some - minimal - error in the temperature reading which would be easily adjusted for. (ie - when it's boiling, adjust the sensor to read 100 etc).

Failing that - I will mount a copper drain in place of the existing brass fitting.

Cheers
Jason

 

[agro]

My HLT is done and ready for service

There was a lot of work removing the rust from the stand, it was even necesary to grind the bolts off they were so badly corroded. With the rust removed I have added a coating of heat resistent paint (black) and have replaced the standard drain/tap combo
with new plumbing.

The caustic trick cleaned the pot beutifully.

I'll add a pic later.

The funny part is my father-in-law-to-be came around andwent off at me for buying the boiler. He has two in the garage :angry:

If I can wrangle them out of him (could be difficult) I can see the next conversion will be into an insulated mash tun. The base is probably a little thin for use as a gas- powered boiler though.

Jason.