Getting More From A Traditional All-grain Brewery

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PistolPatch

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EDIT: The idea below is not as great as I thought at time of writing ;) I didn't realise that so many guys could knock out 2 brews so quickly on their traditional set-ups. Oh well.]

This post will be a long one so If you like my long posts then grab a beer. If not, get out now ;)

Speeding Up the Brewing Learning Curve

Those who have been AG brewing for a while know that...

1. Some beers can be very hard to repeat week to week. Others are easy.

2. We sometimes make impulsive decisions. Being human, we may make a slight change to our brewing process and depending on the resulting beer often decide just on those two brews (often done days or weeks apart) that this one change was either good or not good. When we stop and think we know that this is not a great idea given 1. above.

3. There is a wealth of conflicting advice on the best ways to brew. This is often due to either 2. above or someone reading an article or hearing 'just one sentence' from an authority and taking it as gospel. Often it is out of context and often the myth is gladly perpetuated by others for a variety of human but not scientific reasons. Sometimes the 'authorities,' like economists, totally disagree. For brewers, especially new ones, it is very hard to work out who talks sense and, if they do make sense, at what 'level' they are talking to. (One example is the use of dried versus liquid yeasts. Personally I think a beginner should not even consider using liquid yeasts for quite some time. I've got 12 in my fridge and haven't used them yet as there are so many other things to explore first!)

4. Everyone has different set-ups and so a beer on my system may not give the same results as on your system.

5. Many things are obvious improvements but some are not so obvious mainly due to bad advice. I'll use an extreme example here. We allknow that the makers of kits (an 'authority') say you can brew your beers at 25 degrees. Those of us who have been here a little while know that this is not necessarily true and 18-20 degrees will give you a better beer. This constant incorrect advice flows through the chain. I'm sure that I have given bad advice on occassion here but I do take the time to try and correct it later should I discover it's false. Most people, of course, do not have the time to do this.

Given all the above, I think that the ideal for all brewers to be able to come up with their own answers, would be to brew variations of the same beer simultaneously. Just imagine what you could do if you had an exact duplicate of your own brewery...

Imagine if you could brew 23 litres on the left hand brewery and 23 on the right with either a major or subtle change between the two. It means that you could taste a week or a month later, two beers 'born' on the same day with the same procedure and ingredients.

Brad_G and I did it one day with two brews. We BIABed one and batch-sparged the other and came up with two pretty identical beers. (For the nit-pickers out there, only one of many experienced brewers could taste a difference and this was a very subtle difference.) May people said it couldn't be done as they had read one article on a trial in Adelaide and mis-interpreted it (see 3. above.)

Being able to use the same thermometers, add water to acheive the same pre-boil and final gravity, ferment at the same temps and then being able to taste the beers, in triangular testing, was a treat for both of us - a great experience.

Personally, I think that there are a lot of things in brewing that you can only teach yourself as even 'authorities' make errors. In fact, come to think of it, how much documentation is out there on side by side brewing? How many 'authorities' quote results from a simultaneous brew? SFA. I think there is way too much subjective information out there or information that makes such a small difference to most people's brews that it is not worth considering.

The best way of teaching yourself that I can see is being able to side-by-side or 'simultaneous brew' on your own. That way you have total control over the whole brewing process and the variation/s you wish to trial. No one that I know of does this.

How to Side-By-Side or Simultaneous Brew Using a Traditional Brewery.

Hopefully you agree with me that simultaneous brewing has tremendous benefits the least being that you can also brew a double-batch!

For a start, when I say side-by-side or simultaneous brews I think we can give ourselves a lee-way of a few hours. We don't have to mash, boil and chill at exactly the same time for most of the tests that any of us would like to do. Far more important to fill your MLT/s with the same water and use the same thermometer. Brewing within a day I think is good enough in most cases but for traditional brewers, this is going to take a lot of time.

Here's the good bit for a lot of traditional brewers but not all unfortunately.

A lot of traditional brewers already have two kettles and two burners. One kettle usually acts as an HLT but why not use this as a kettle? Hopefully the kettles are of similiar size and shape but even if not, the test that Brad and I did prove that these issues are not as large as they are made out to be.

The above tests and experience shows that batch-sparging and brewing in a bag (BIAB) produce virtually identical results. I thin this opens up a huge world of possibility for traditional brewers who have the above equipment. Just add either one bag or two BIAB bags and you now have two breweries! Alternatively, you could do some 'full-volume' mashing (which once again seems to produce equivalent results to batch-sparging) in your esky, split the wort and off you go! (This would be alittle more inaccurate but good enough for a lot of testing.)

I better go and add some more hops to my beer but I hope that the above might trigger some thoughts and possibilities for better brewing.

Someone criticised BIAB this morning in an uninformed and illogical manner. We talk about a heap of interesting stuff in the BIAB thread. We don't talk illogically (for long) and a lot of questions get answered that are relveant to all AG'ers no matter whether they BIAB, batch or fly. It's a really good thread, very constructive, very educational and rarely sees negativity.

Rarely does anyone talk about BIAB outside of that thread. I do from time to time, like now but I think given the huge advantages for not only new AG'ers but the possibilities that full-volume mashing can give to traditional brewers, then we should all be talking about brewing in a bag a lot more.

My pet hate is seeing guys post here saying they have their kettle and are saving up for a mash tun and HLT. If those guys were advised correctly, they could be brewing beautifully tomorrow.

Spot ya.
Pat
 
jesus christ............. have you got sore fingers after that?

I will read it tomorrow :)

cheers
 
Imagine if you could brew 23 litres on the left hand brewery and 23 on the right with either a major or subtle change between the two. It means that you could taste a week or a month later, two beers 'born' on the same day with the same procedure and ingredients.

The best way of teaching yourself that I can see is being able to side-by-side or 'simultaneous brew' on your own. That way you have total control over the whole brewing process and the variation/s you wish to trial. No one that I know of does this.

I do 2 brews as comparisons & you know me :) - I've currently got 2 CAP's on tap, 1 made with corn & 1 with rice, otherwise identical ingredients & mashing/boiling regimes. These were done with the same equipment just 90 mins apart. Yes, it takes a wee bit longer, but it's done with the identical setup & no extra cost. Anyone can do this without purchasing extra equipment. The main push behind BIAB I thought was the cheapness & simplicity, If you start doubling your kettles etc then I don't really see the benefit? Why not just do 2 in a row with the same equipment (either BIAB or traditional)?
This is not a knock, I just can't see many justifing buying an extra kettle & burner (& possible chillers as well, for those of us who aren't sold on "no chill") just so they can do 2 side by side brews, when doing one after another just adds a couple of hours to your brew day, if you feel so inclined.

cheers Ross
 
I think you and i need to get together for a brewday Pat.

Cheers
Big D
 
LOL Tony!!! Us tradeys read best in the morning anyway ;)

Rossco: Don't worry about any knocks as long as they are encouraging people to do what you are doing - testing for themselves.

You have me buggered on being able to do two brews 90 minutes apart. I thought it would have been 4 hours apart at least. I like the way you're thinking though so, as Pauline would say, 'Please explain.'

LOL
Pat

Edit: Just saw bigD's post. I'm onto you Dave!
 
As wort goes into Kettle HLT is heating, if you're good you'll have the mash tun emptied and fresh grain in there in no time. Then the hold up's chilling in the kettle before your drop the next one in there. Think 90minutes is pushing it but if you've done it a few times. Find out how it works tomorrow, first double brewday !
 
Here endeth the first chapter as read by Messers Pistol patch .

I have printed it off and will read when in bed :blink:

Beats counting sheep ;)

Nite Nite Pumpy :)

'Screwtop 'and Inspector Pocket Brewery is in the locality tommorrow.

hope he got some spare stickers .!!
 
You have me buggered on being able to do two brews 90 minutes apart. I thought it would have been 4 hours apart at least. I like the way you're thinking though so, as Pauline would say, 'Please explain.'

Partigyle brewing makes this possible, with the added advantage of very efficient use of ingredients. Plus, as mika_lika said, if you have your HLT set right and filled appropriately, theres nothing to stop you mashing in again straight after sparging the first beer.

I'm still waiting on replies to my questions about BIAB here by the way ;)
 
Evenin' Kook!

WTF is partigyle? Never heard of that! Anyway, I'm off to find your questions whilst 'simultaneously' putting today's brew to bed ;) Kook, you better tell us about partygyle as I'm facinated!

Spot ya,
Pat

P.S. Kook does great brew days and has way too many brewing books which he should lend me ;)
 
WTF is partigyle? Never heard of that!

A traditional form of brewing where seperate beers of varying gravity are made from the first, second and even third runnings of the mash.

A modern commercial example is Anchor Old Foghorn Barleywine, and Anchor Small Beer (Barley wine first runnings, bitter second runnings). This was very common practice in the UK and Belgium.
 
Brewing a double batch with a 3-vessel 2-burner brewery doesn't add a huge amount of time to a brewday. A double brewday could easily proceed as follows:

1000 start heating strike water
1015 mash in
1100 heat sparge water
1110 lauter
1115 drain first runnings, fire up copper
1120 add sparge water, stir
1125 drain second runnings
1130 start heating strike water
1140 bittering hop addition
1145 mash in
1230 start heating sparge water
1235 lauter
1240 flameout
1245 transfer wort to cube
1250 drain first runnings, fire up copper
1255 add sparge water, stir
1300 drain second runnings
1315 bittering addition
1415 flameout
1420 transfer wort to cube, clean up
1500 all done

That's assuming a batch sparge and not necessarily assuming the brewer is "no-chilling" - you could easily run the second wort through a chiller while you clean, and you could do the same with the first wort straight from the cube.
 
Just drinking a partigyle second runnings now, 1.030 60 ibu quaffer.
Its big brother was an American barleywine.
come back next year
 
Good Day
I always double batch (22 litres each), sometimes with comparisons (eg just bottled two kolschs, one with 200 gms wheat, the other with 100 gms wheat, 100 gms melanoidan). I use very basic equipment except two round mash tuns with ss false bottoms. The two HLT are the fermenters that I will put the wort into at the end of brewing. The two boilers are two old plastic fermenters. Heating is three immersion heaters. Cooling are two cooler immersion coolers hooked up together. Also use a stainless steel racking cane that runs the cooled wort from the boiler into the fermenters.
The second batch is mashed longer and the first batch stands longer after the whirlpool. However it is fairly easy to equalise most of the timing with comparison batches.
I always crack the grain the day before and store in the old fermenter boilers. I also get the water all set up and mash tuns are put into position. The following is a typical timing.
Start at approximately 6 am, turn on the heaters, have shower.
Start the mashes at 6.30 am
Start the sparges at 8 am
Start heating the wort at 8 .50 am
Boil for number 1 starts at 9.05 am , number 2 at 9.30 am (two heaters take longer that three)
Start cooling 1 at 10.35 am finish and whirlpool at 11(can be shorter time)
Start cooling 2 at 11 finish at 11.30 am
Whirlpool 2 at 11.30 let stand untill 12 noon
Start syphoning 1 into fermenter 12 noon then number two
12 15 pm move fermenters to under the house.
Clean up boilers, area etc
Finish 12. 30 to 12 45 pm
Have lunch (mash tuns etc are cleaned up, dried, put away during boil and cooling)
Shorter mash and shorter sparge can reduce time if you want.
Usual make two batches that will use the same yeast starter or slurry.
 
I am another experimenter, even with the limitation of a traditional brewery. ;)

I can just do 38L batches in my 50L kettle. :huh: I've done quite a few experiments, splitting the batch into two fermenters and pitching different yeasts. It's interesting to see the difference the yeast makes, with some batches coming out better with the yeast I wasn't expecting to be so good. I also fermented one batch with a yeast, then used most of the yeast cake with the second part of the batch (an advantage of no-chilling). The second beer attenuated much more.

I've done a few parti-gyle batches. It is great for getting two different beers from the same mash. I've currently got an all-Centennial IPA and a D Saaz Pale ale that I made like this. Both are good beers, and they're completely different beers as well. Also seems like the best way to make a big beer to me. It doesn't really help with this sort of experiment though, does it? :unsure:
 
Getting More From A Traditional All-grain Brewery...
Hmmmm...
I suppose that with limited equipment it is essential to simplify the process to ease the burden on reproducibility factors.

I would list the most important factor part from the ingredients are..
Drumroll.... :ph34r:

1.Grist
2.Equipment
3.mash temps control
4.Water
5.Ph levels
6.Intensity of boil
7.Chilling
8. Fermentation process I.e. temp control.
:huh:
Is there more? Bummer

Well you get the drift.
Personally I wright down everything i do.
Haven't yet made the drop that I want to reproduce over and over again.
Any beer that is not tainted made from scratch is generally is a nice one IMHO

Now that is the beauty of home brewing.
Give it that little bit of exitement before the first taste test.

On a more serious note.
I try to reproduce the application to my brewing method to avoid errors.

I said try cause we are all human.

Pat and every one else on this forum.
(I am feeling abit luvvy duvvy :wub: )

Keep the good info coming.
matti the finnished Swede
 
As wort goes into Kettle HLT is heating, if you're good you'll have the mash tun emptied and fresh grain in there in no time. Then the hold up's chilling in the kettle before your drop the next one in there. Think 90minutes is pushing it but if you've done it a few times. Find out how it works tomorrow, first double brewday !

thats what i do.

did it today with 2 x 50 liter batches.

they wernt identical batches though, one bitter and 1 porter.

mashed in at 9am and was all done with the porter in no chill cubes by about 4pm. took me a bit cause i had work to do between brews and i had a few problems like one of my 3 year old daughters falling over and dinting her head on a concrete step creating a lump the size of a large olive on her forehead ;)

and its too late now to read that epic PP.......... another day. one day when im at work and getting paid B)

cheers
 
Just finished my brew day, 95% cleaned up and packed away, the rest will still be there tomorrow night :D

Started late though, not going to make that mistake again. Next time I'll pick the grain up the day before.

If someone can tell me how to improve my efficiency above 60% :( that would be great too ! I'm starting to run out of room in the mash tun by the time I had the sparge water.
 
Brewed this today;


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 20.00 L
Boil Size: 36.00 L
Estimated OG: 1.046 SG
Estimated Color: 22.6 EBC
Estimated IBU: 27.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.0 %
Boil Time: 105 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
2.00 kg Pale Malt, Traditional Ale (Joe White) (5.Grain 53.3 %
1.00 kg Carared (Weyermann) (47.3 EBC) Grain 26.7 %
0.50 kg Melanoidin (Weyermann) (59.1 EBC) Grain 13.3 %
0.13 kg Carahell (Weyermann) (25.6 EBC) Grain 3.5 %
0.12 kg Carapills (4.0 EBC) Grain 3.2 %
35.00 gm Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.50%] (75 min) Hops 23.5 IBU
15.00 gm Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.50%] (10 min) Hops 3.5 IBU
1 Pkgs Munich Lager (Wyeast Labs #2308) Yeast-Lager


Mash Schedule: Vienna Infusion Mash
Total Grain Weight: 3.75 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash In Add 12.00 L of water at 82.1 C 69.0 C 60 min
Mash Out Add 11.00 L of water at 86.7 C 76.0 C 10 min

tomorrow night plan to swap the quantities of Melanoidin & Carared malt and see what the colour & taste difference is.
 
Just finished my brew day, 95% cleaned up and packed away, the rest will still be there tomorrow night :D

Started late though, not going to make that mistake again. Next time I'll pick the grain up the day before.

If someone can tell me how to improve my efficiency above 60% :( that would be great too ! I'm starting to run out of room in the mash tun by the time I had the sparge water.

How are you sparging?

Is it -

-Mash
-Add sparge water, recirc etc
-Drain
-Done

or

-Mash
-Drain
-Add sparge water, recirc etc
-Second Drain
-Done

or

-Mash
-Drain
-Add sparge water, recirc etc
-Second Drain
-Add Second sparge water, recirc etc
-Third drain
-Done

or some other variation of the theme??

Mostly I do the third version and I can get 29litres of a reasonably big 1.07ish wort into my kettle by just lowering the L:G ratio till the original mash will fit in my crappy 20litre mash tun.

Also, dont fear bumping up the gravity with a little bit of sugar to get to your desired OG. You wont even notice 5% or so and it saves enough room in the mash tun to really help.

Thirsty
 
I've added an edit at the beginning of the first post saying that my idea was not as great as I thought it was at the time of writing ;)

In the 'pale ale haze' under which the first post was written, I'd forgotten that most guys don't have primitive batch-sparging set-ups like I did (eg one burner). With my set-up, to do two brews meant a long time. You guys have reminded me that it can be done heaps quicker with the two burners - doh!

That being said, the idea of two BIAB's still has many advantages (time-saving and a little less hectic to manage to name just two) so I suppose the first post still has a fair bit of merit especially for those newer to AG or who like me, are not very good at multi-tasking :wacko:

Thanks for the interesting reads from the experienced brewers above. It's great to see what people are testing and how they do it. (Would love to see a pic or two of Barry's set-up. Pretty good output there!)

And I'd write anything to see more of matti's 'luvvy duvvy' posts. Good on ya matti!!!

Spot ya,
Pat
 

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