Gas leak and kegging help needed

[hathro]

Hi all,

I've bought a keg king kegerator and set it up with the standard equipment in the bundle and after a few days, my CO2 bottle was empty. I have since replaced the push-in type connectors with a barbed manifold with hose clamps and leak tested the whole system and things are looking great. My gas bottle sits in the kegerator with the kegs. I do have one issue with my gas quick disconnects where CO2 will leak if they are turned a certain way that creates a gap, illustrated below. The homebrew shop told me I should be turning off the bottle when not serving anyway. The other thing to note is that I have changed to the universal poppets that site a few millimeters above the gas and beer posts. They require a good push to connect.



Unfortunately there is a lot of conflicting information on the net. I have the following questions that I'm hoping you gurus can help me with

1. I prefer the set to serving pressure and forget method. Is there any way to get these quick disconnects to stop leaking?
2. Once my kegs are carbed, what are the consequences of only turning on the gas when I want a beer? Sometimes this may be up to 7 days between beers (worst case scenario).
3. What will happen to the beer if I leave the beer and gas quick disconnects connected but shut the CO2 off, then turn on the gas 7 days later to pour a beer?
4. Bonus question - one of my beers wasn't dry hopped as much as I'd like. It's now carbonated, can I still keg hop?

Thanks so much for any help.

Cheers.

 

[TheBigD]

1 get new higher quality connects that don't leak stay away from the cheapies.
2 none
3 nothing if there are no leaks
4 I've read you can dry hop straight into the keg using tea bags or tea balls however I've never done it

 

[wogdog]

Get decent connects the price for better ones is a great investment over the cheap ones.

 

[thedragon]

I don't mean to sound rude, but take the cheap disconnects and throw them in the bin.

I remember comparing at the start of my kegging career the good quality G&G disconnects at $26 to the $8 KK disconnects. At the time I thought that anyone that paid $26 for something that could be got for $8 was an idiot.

Two empty bottles of gas later, and I was over at G&G buying three sets of the quality option with the john guest fitting. Wish that I'd not been a tight arse from the outset.... I'd have saved myself $48 on crappy disconnects that are now sitting in my bottom drawer. Not to mention the two wasted bottles of gas at $30 a refill.

 

[hathro]

Thanks guys, no offense taken! I thought turning the bottle off was addressing the symptom not the problem.

I didn't realise there were better connects - the ones I saw all seemed to be the same in the $10-20 price range. Are these the better ones mentioned above? http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7QD+SS+FEMALE+BARBED

The beer quick disconnects seem to be okay, no leaks. Is it okay to keep these or will they eventually cause problems?

I still find it amazing that I can post a question and 5 minutes later have replies that answer all my questions. What a great forum this is. Cheers guys.

 

[Eagleburger]

What are G&G disconnects? got a link?

I paid 13.50 for mine and will toss them as soon as I find better.

 

[hathro]

I'm asuming it's these ones http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7QD+SS+FEMALE+BARBED

 

[thedragon]

These are the ones

http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RIECYHUL%20hoses-and-fittings/7KEG+DISC+GAS+TH

But you also need one of these:

http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RIECYHUL%20hoses-and-fittings/7JOHN+GUEST+FEM+DISC+AD

(If you're not going in to the shop to buy, give G&G a call to check that I've linked the right JG fitting)

 

[simplefisherman]

Food grade grease aka keg lube on your o-rings will help, but sometimes you just get a dud disconnect.
If you want to leave the gas on, I recommend lubing up your posts and checking for leaks with soapy water, then turn off the gas bottle and watch how long it takes for the gauges to drop. If it takes more than a day or so for them to go down then you won't lose much gas by leaving the bottle on. This means you can gas up your kegs at serving pressure and be ready for a quick draw beer whenever.
I would still turn off the bottle if you know its going to be a few days between drinks( provided they are all gassed up) and remove the gas disconnects so you don't lose carbonation.
Hope this helps.

 

[pk.sax]

I've got a mix of cmb brand, Cornelius brand and some really old metallic disconnects. They all never leak. The gas stays on always. Your local store is making excuses. Get decent disconnects.

This is why I avoid buying kits of stuff made as cheap as possible.

Anyway, barbed fittings are fine but the mfl ones requiring screw on barb/push-in fittings are really easy to use.

 

[Josh SA]

My good disconnects are smooth shiny plastic & the 1 cheapie is a dull satin finish ( use this on the air comp for cleaning etc ) & is a real pita to get off/on.

If the poppet is sitting high then that would be putting more pressure on the cheapie.

Big fan of barbs & clamps. Like most people I never turn my gas off.

I know a good & cheap welding guru & have thought about getting him to tack a small "U" piece to the underside of a few keg lids. This would allow a weighted hop sock/ stocking to be hung inside the keg, preventing blockages. Will get around to it one day .

 

[TheBigD]

I have three sets of CMB connects never had a problem so far.

 

[peter.b]

I've also got a mix of CMB, Cornelius and some old Stainless disconnects. I have had two of the plastic ones split on me overnight and waste 3/4 of a keg. What a mess!!! Give the cheap crap the flick.
Look up Andale Beverage systems in your state, they are the Cornelius agents for Aust and supply the brew shops, including most/all of the AHB advertisers. They also sell Stainless disconnects. Not cheap though.
I like avoiding middle men, and am not affiliated with the above mentioned supplier.

Beers,

 

[maxim0200]

CMB are my fav, I buy myne of "mybeershop" on eBay for 20$ delivered.
In my opinion the KK ones are pieces of junk and *might* be useful for burning. (Note probably not use full for burning).

Don't Buy Cheap Disconnects: http://youtu.be/EShlBJd0ZBw


The guy at the HBS is talking crap if he think you have to turn the cylinder off ever time, like the majority of people I leave my cylinder on all the time.

A great and unfortunately very sober way to test your system is to connect it all up with no liquid and turn the gas bottle on, note the HP gauge side of the regulator and turn off the cylinder again.
Now see how long it takes to drop, I got 5 days before I got thirsty... Lol

Also I've heard CO2 cylinders are like O2/argon/other HP cylinders and the valve on the cylinder should either be all the way closed or all the way open to limit leaks, it could and is probably most likely is just a rumour but I do it for piece of mind.

 

[maxim0200]

PS: I also have had a leak on my manifold so don't just assume, dunk each component in water (except the regulator of course) to check for bubbles.

Also avoid buying second hand regulators, I got stung and the diaphragms were old and decayed and it was cheaper to buy new micromatic regs than replace the diaphrams.

 

[hathro]

Thanks mate. I have a new reg and manifold which I've leak tested and the disconnects were the only leak point.

I've bought some quality disconnects and will report back once installed.