FV Fitting For Multiple Dry-Hopping

[Gigantorus]

[SIZE=12pt]Hi All,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]I want to get into some multiple dry-hopping with styles like New England IPA's etc. I generally use the old mesh tube for putting the hop pellets into with a knot at each end and slowly drop into the fermenter. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]But now I want to fix some sort of fitting to the inside/under-side of my fermenter lid that I can hang the hop sock from (and change the sock with each dry-hop addition). The obvious one is a stainless steel hook type fitting from the marine chandlery.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Anyone else crossed this issue and have solved it? Please throw your thoughts/comments/ideas/pictures at me thanks?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Cheers,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Pete[/SIZE]

 

[scooterism]

Which size?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-X-Stainless-Steel-Tea-Chain-Infuser-Mesh-Strainer-Loose-Herb-Spice-Filter-Tool-/161659889380?var=&hash=item25a3ae26e4:m:mJKxZW1ejqdTdIuSYkPR0-A

 

[Gigantorus]

My fermenter size is 30Litre. I'd rather not use a metal basket in the liquid and want to stay with my hop sock.

So my quest is how I might secure the hop sock to the lid of the fermenter.

Cheers,
Pete

 

[crowmanz]

30L plastic? with a lid/airlock? I would secure an SS eye bolt through the lid and tie off to that.

If you did glad wrap I would get an S hook or similar and have that on the rim, fishing line to hop sock, then glad wrap over top as normal.

 

[Gigantorus]

30L plastic? with a lid/airlock? I would secure an SS eye bolt through the lid and tie off to that.

If you did glad wrap I would get an S hook or similar and have that on the rim, fishing line to hop sock, then glad wrap over top as normal.

Yes plastic type with the lid with airlock hole etc. Yes, been looking at the SS eye bolt with an "S" hook (pre-tied to the hop sock).

Still can't quite do the glad wrap thing.

 

[captain crumpet]

Still can't quite do the glad wrap thing.

Do they not sell gladwrap at your local supermarket? Once you do it, you'll never look back.

You could just pull the string through the blow off and tie it off outside of the fermenter. No mods needed.

 

[Lionman]

Is there actually any advantage in multiple stages of dry hopping?

Just chuck it all in there at once?

 

[abyss]

If you use an airlock drill a small hole in the bottom and use some stainless mig or tig wire to make an s hook.

 

[Gigantorus]

Is there actually any advantage in multiple stages of dry hopping?

Just chuck it all in there at once?

Lionman,

Apparently so. The new style of New England IPA uses 2 to 3 dry-hops (7 days, 5 days and 3 days etc.), which is said to give it a massive fruit hit.

I also believe the Extra Pale Ale style also uses 2 dry-hops (5 days and 3 days etc.).

Will give it a go at least once to see if it's any good.

Cheers,
Pete

 

[Gigantorus]

Do they not sell gladwrap at your local supermarket? Once you do it, you'll never look back.

You could just pull the string through the blow off and tie it off outside of the fermenter. No mods needed.

CC,

I'm old school and want to retain my airlock and hard top surface etc. Glad Wrap is for sandwiches.

The string through the airlock hole with a hook on it is a good idea. I guess I would like a more central hang point in FV though.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Lionman]

Do you have to remove the last batch before you add another?

Couldn't you chuck the 7 day lot in, then two days later chuck the 5 day lot in, then 2 days later chuck the 3 day lot in? A bit like hop additions to the boil.

This way you can just stick the whole hop bag in the FV with no need to remove any prior to it being emptied.

 

[Gigantorus]

Do you have to remove the last batch before you add another?

Couldn't you chuck the 7 day lot in, then two days later chuck the 5 day lot in, then 2 days later chuck the 3 day lot in? A bit like hop additions to the boil.

This way you can just stick the whole hop bag in the FV with no need to remove any prior to it being emptied.

Yes, you need to remove the old before dropping in the next one.

You probably could, but some of the additions are up to 100grams each - so there would be a large pile of swollen hops in the fermenter, which could also block your tap.

Each dry-hop addition will give a new and fresh aroma/flavour addition to the brew.

 

[goatchop41]

Is there actually any advantage in multiple stages of dry hopping?

Just chuck it all in there at once?

With NEIPAs it's also about achieving some biotransformation of some of the compounds in the hops, which only occur if you dry hop during fermentation. This allows you to get some flavours from the hops that you wouldn't usually, apparently this is responsible for the extremely 'juicy' hop character that these beers have. Take note though, this may only happen with certain yeasts (eg. Vermont IPA/Conan).
There will be another one or two dry hop charges if you want really punchy hop character.

 

[Lionman]

With NEIPAs it's also about achieving some biotransformation of some of the compounds in the hops, which only occur if you dry hop during fermentation. This allows you to get some flavours from the hops that you wouldn't usually, apparently this is responsible for the extremely 'juicy' hop character that these beers have. Take note though, this may only happen with certain yeasts (eg. Vermont IPA/Conan).
There will be another one or two dry hop charges if you want really punchy hop character.

How can you have 3 dry hop additions during fermentation? If they are 7, 5 and 3 day additions all added and removed consecutively, fermentation would be over by the time the first addition is removed...

 

[Gigantorus]

How can you have 3 dry hop additions during fermentation? If they are 7, 5 and 3 day additions all added and removed consecutively, fermentation would be over by the time the first addition is removed...

Lionman,

You would essentially wait for the primary fermentation to be complete - say after day 7 - then start your dry-hopping program something like....Day 8, Day 11 and Day 14 etc. and then cold crash on day 17.

Attached is the Juicy Bits recipe from the USA, which I think was mentioned earlier in this post, which will give you an idea of the process - and this is one of the more simpler NE IPA recipes.

Cheers,

Pete

View attachment WeldWerks Brewing Co. - Juicy Bits New England–Style IPA.pdf

 

[goatchop41]

How can you have 3 dry hop additions during fermentation? If they are 7, 5 and 3 day additions all added and removed consecutively, fermentation would be over by the time the first addition is removed...

Lionman,

You would essentially wait for the primary fermentation to be complete - say after day 7 - then start your dry-hopping program something like....Day 8, Day 11 and Day 14 etc. and then cold crash on day 17.

Oops, didn't word that too well. Only the first dry hop is during fermentation, the next one (or two) would be after fermentation is finished, as they usually would be.

So a sample dry hop schedule would be:
- Dry hop #1 within 48 hours of fermentation kicking off
- DH#2 at day 4/5/6 as you prefer
- Keg at days 7-10 (or DH#3 a few days after #2, then keg a few days after that)

Plus or minus a cold crash in there too, if you want

 

[Lionman]

Lionman,

You would essentially wait for the primary fermentation to be complete - say after day 7 - then start your dry-hopping program something like....Day 8, Day 11 and Day 14 etc. and then cold crash on day 17.

Attached is the Juicy Bits recipe from the USA, which I think was mentioned earlier in this post, which will give you an idea of the process - and this is one of the more simpler NE IPA recipes.

Cheers,

Pete

Nice.

Looks tasty, might have to try something similar.

 

[S.E]

CC,

I'm old school and want to retain my airlock and hard top surface etc. Glad Wrap is for sandwiches.

The string through the airlock hole with a hook on it is a good idea. I guess I would like a more central hang point in FV though.

Cheers,

Pete

At the risk of turning your thread into a lid vs gladwrap debate I should point out that gladwrap is actually nearer to old school than a sealed lid and airlock.

Sealed fermenters with airlocks were originally sold as wine fermenters. Beer fermenters were buckets with snap on lids, the lid had a small hole but no airlock and no sealing ring.

Usual advice in old school HB books was fit the lid after pitching the yeast and leave it on during the lag but remove it as soon as possible then ferment open till it slowed, then either replace the lid or transfer to secondary.

I prefer using a lid to gladwrap but without the airlock.

 

[Gigantorus]

Oops, didn't word that too well. Only the first dry hop is during fermentation, the next one (or two) would be after fermentation is finished, as they usually would be.

So a sample dry hop schedule would be:
- Dry hop #1 within 48 hours of fermentation kicking off
- DH#2 at day 4/5/6 as you prefer
- Keg at days 7-10 (or DH#3 a few days after #2, then keg a few days after that)

Plus or minus a cold crash in there too, if you want

Re: your comment - Dry hop #1 within 48 hours of fermentation kicking off. I've never dry-hopped so early in the fermentation, as all the aroma would be expelled with the CO2. I've also read this is virtually ever home brewing book I've read. So I wouldn't be recommending this myself.

 

[Lionman]

I think given you're going to be opening the lid every few days anyway, the need for a sealed environment is surely diminished?

I have started to use stainless hop balls and the clip onto the side of the fermenter. the lid still closes but isn't sealed. I have a Coopers fermenter and they don't seal airtight anyway. Never had a problem.

It would be trivially easy for me to add/remove them, I only need to open the lid a crack and slip them in or out.