First America Ipa Style Extract Beer

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dpgrent

Member
Joined
29/9/10
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
0.4kg Carmel/Crystal Malt Steeped before Boil
3 kg light Dry Extract boiled 60 min
0.4kg Amber Dry Extract 60 Min Boil
1kg Dextrose 60 min Boil

Hops
60gm Pride of Ringwood. 60 min Boil
30 gm chinook 60 min boil
30 gm Cascade 5 min boil
Not Sure on the Yeast Yet.
going to make 2 batchs
1st batch primary for 4-5 days then in 2nd fermenter for 3-4 week before bottling
2nd batch 7 days in primary straight to bottles.
What everyone though on this any suggestions for the first real not kit brew.
brewing Temp is steady 17-20 deg for the whole time brewing
 
Why PoR for bittering? Will it bring a specific characteristic you like to the brew?

Generally looking Ok but hard to judge without knowing either volume evels or IBU and abv.grav calcs.
 
There's no need to put all of the fermentables in the boil. 100g of extract per litre of water in the boil will give you the best utilisation & I wouldn't boil the dex.

I've only ever bottled after 7 days in a beer emergency. If you have a beer emergency at the moment then it may be fine to bottle after 7 days but get sg readings on day 5 & 6 before bottling on day 7. If it's still dropping then leave it.

I'm with Manticle on the hops. If that's what you have on hand at the moment then it may turn out great but I tend to use POR for bittering if I'm using galaxy later. The last time I did that I used 7g of POR @ 60 I reckon. If I'm brewing with american hops I tend to use all american hops.
 
I would get my colour from a crystal grain rather than use amber dried extract. Unless you just happen to have to the spare 400g of amber dried extract hanging around. I found that beer which relies on steeped grain for colour and flavour superior to one with darker dried malts.
Perhaps use more crystal to balance with your bitterness.
Bottle when you are sure the beer has finished as opposed to a set time frame. Two weeks in the primary followed by a cold conditioning period then bottle would be better than 1 week primary then into the bottles. Your beer will be much clearer with less sediment in the bottles.
A fermentation temperature of 17-20 degrees doesn't sound steady to me. I would ferment at 17 then maybe raise to 19 or 20 at the end of fermentation to help the beer finish.
US05 would be a good yeast to use IMO.
Magnum is my favourite bittering hop for APA's. I would just use the one hop for bittering and perhaps put some Chinook in at around 20-30 mins, never tried it so can't say how it would go with Cascade but I'm sure it's been done.

Just the way I would do things.
 
Back
Top