First 2 Biab Experiences

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black_labb

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i decided to do a biab brew when i realised that i had most everything i needed aside from the bag and a couple small items, and i've always been interested in doing something more unique/involved than kits & bits like i have been. i am using a 30L urn with a swiss voile bag (just draped it in, havent sewn it to shape yet) and a colander upturned over the element to stop the bag from burning in the mashout heating.

i decided to do a apa for the first one as it seems to be a style that is hard to get too wrong. i'm someone who cant follow a recipe and has to make one up myself. i picked up some maris otter, medium crystal and some wheat grain. for the hops i grabbed some chinook and some willamette. i developed a recipe with brewmate after having a look a number of other recipes.

the apa recipe was

American Pale Ale

Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 23.0
Total Grain (kg): 5.180
Total Hops (g): 55.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.052
Colour (SRM): 9.1
Bitterness (IBU): 34.1
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 74
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
4 kg Maris Otter Malt (77.22%)
0.4 kg Flaked Rice (7.72%)
0.28 kg Crystal 60 (5.41%)
0.5 kg Wheat Malt (9.65%)

Hop Bill
----------------
10 g Chinook Pellet (11.3% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (0.4 g/l)
10 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (0.4 g/l)
10 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 30 Minutes (Boil) (0.4 g/l)
10 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 20 Minutes (Boil) (0.4 g/l)
5 g Chinook Pellet (11.3% Alpha) @ 30 Minutes (Boil) (0.2 g/l)
5 g Chinook Pellet (11.3% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Dry Hop) (0.2 g/l)
5 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Dry Hop) (0.2 g/l)

Single step Infusion at 66C for 60 Minutes.
Fermented at 18c with Safale US-05

Recipe Generated with BrewMate

i was pretty reserved with the hop additions, especially the chinook as i read that it could be quite harsh (after reading deeper it seemed that the harshness often comes from the bittering additions as opposed to the late additions).

the recipe there says 23L but i probably only got around 19-20. this would make the efficiency only around 65%. i accidentally tore a smallish hole in the biab bag and it seemed to have a lot of trub down the bottom of the boiler. the hole tore when i was using a big SS bowl with some holes drilled in it (used for other purposes) as a colander over the urn. the holes were rough and caught the bag when squeezing the liquor out. the hole didnt seem to let too much grain bits out, but i think alot of floury/smaller particles from the grains came through that wouldnt otherwise. i left alot of truby liquid down the bottom of the boiler and again in the cube before putting it into the fermenter reducing the yield of the batch.

aside from reduced volume of usable wort i was happy with the process. it has since fermented down to 1011 in 8 days at ~21* before i racked it into the secondary where it has been for a couple days now.

the recipe shown above doesnt have the hop scheduele quite right. it is partially adjusted for NC in a cube. the 60mins was actually 60 mins, the 30 was around 20 mins (added 10 to compensate for nc) the 20 min additions were in the cube with the hot wort. the dry hops were put in 2-3 days after pitching the yeast.


brew #2
before racking the apa described above i thought it would be a good idea to make a batch of beer and pitch it straight onto the yeast cake from the above beer. i decided against doing that while the brew was in the cube as i didnt want to have any first time mashing errors to carry over to my second ag brew, so i picked up another pack of us05.
i was tossing up between something along the lines of a toohies old or some type of american brown ale. i also had a spare toohies special draught kit that i picked up to do a toucan with when it was on special that i decided i would throw in. so this brew is not an all grain brew as there is 1.7kg of hopped LME in there. but the rest is grain.

here is the second recipe.


Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 22.0
Total Grain (kg): 4.400
Total Hops (g): 80.50
Original Gravity (OG): 1.056
Colour (SRM): 23.4
Bitterness (IBU): 35.4
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 85
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
1 kg Maris Otter Malt (22.73%)
0.3 kg Chocolate (6.82%)
0.4 kg Crystal 60 (9.09%)
1 kg Pale Ale Malt (22.73%)
1.7 kg Liquid Malt Extract - Light (38.64%)

Hop Bill
----------------
25.5 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (1.2 g/l)
15 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 45 Minutes (Boil) (0.7 g/l)
15 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (0.7 g/l)
15 g Willamette Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Dry Hop) (0.7 g/l)
10 g Chinook Pellet (11.3% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (0.5 g/l)

Single step Infusion at 66C for 60 Minutes.
Fermented at 18c with


Recipe Generated with BrewMate


the 1.7kg of the LME was the can of toohies special draught. the kit goop was put in the wort once i removed the spent grains and boiled for 45-60 mins to get a full boil time and allow the hop flavour if there is any to evaporate and just leave the bitterness from the kit so i can have a fresh start when it comes to hop flavour.

as you can imagine the hops were leftover from the apa, but willamette should be at home in an american brown and a bit of chinook should (according to my inexperienced understanding of beer recipe development) give it a more complex flavour and a bit if an edge. the 25.5g of willamette @60 was accounting for the bittering level in the can of goop. i boiled for 45-60mins but only started adding the hops at 30 mins (says 45 to account for NC). the 15 minutes additions of chinook and willamette were put into the cube with the hot wort. i havent added the dry hops yet.

200g of the marris otter i tried roasting it in the oven. it was already cracked but i thought i'd see how it turned out anyway. put the oven to roughly 150* and had the grains in there on a porcelain tray. it started to smell roasty and were darkened a bit after an estimated 25 mins. was just checking on it every once in a while so i dont know how long it was actually in there for. looking back i would have liked to have recorded how long it was in for, but considering i have never made a similar batch of beer i will have no idea what difference it made. the smell was nice though.



comparing the 2 batches
. the dark ale had much less sediment (half the grain, 1/2 the hops in boiler, no hole in the voile but all the grain went into the blender for a bit before going into the bag). i only left around 0.5L in the boiler as opposed to ~3L in the apa. the dark ale is fermenting a bit lower at 18* as oppsed to 21*(colder week so under the house has cooled down a little bit).

the dark ale got much better efficiency. i measured a gravity of 1030 before the tin went in. and before the liquid was boiled down (but i did top up the boiler a bit with bucket sparge water). i did a mash out as well with the dark ale, the grains went into a blender before going into the bag and there was also alot more water per amount of grain as the grain only accounted for roughly half of the fermentables. according to brewmate and an estimated 22L brew i get a 84% efficiency into the fermenter. big difference from the 65% on the first one but the reasons for the big difference is explained above.


the 2 batches were done 1 week apart so i need to get collecting/drinking as i only have ~45 330ml stubbies and 16 longnecks.


i'm looking forward to trying these brews, but i'll have to wait patiently. bought a case of JSGA which should help with bottles and keep me amused when i dont feel like my homebrews from my kit&bits days.


would be interested in any comments people have, otherwise just some more information for people and encouragement for people to try biab, as it is a very pleasant experience and much more enjoyable than doing kits.
 
84% efficiency is awesome for brew #2. I usually only get around 70% <_<
 
sorry bit OT.

how do you find out your efficiency?? might be a stupid question but I am still doing extract.
 
the 2 batches were done 1 week apart so i need to get collecting/drinking as i only have ~45 330ml stubbies and 16 longnecks.
Post a wanted add in the AHB marketplace... after having a skim to see if anyone has any. I'm sure theres a few blokes from around your area on here that have surplus bottles that would be happy to give em away to a good home
 
Sounds interesting. Kudos for trying a few different things. Did you actually throw the roasted maris otter in with the batch? It would be a cheap way to get some roasted malt! Did it change the colour much?

I've thought about playing around with some yeast from previous batches, but I'm so paranoid about failure that I usually end up buying a fresh pack of us05. I'm gonna put a batch on this week and have a go at re-culturing some coopers yeast from a couple of bottles. Will be my first real beer experiment playing with yeast. I'm not too worried about it either, as the ingredients are less than $25, as opposed to around $50 for some of the other brews I have planned or have done. Its not as great a loss if something goes wrong, and I'll learn something from it either way.

I'll have to try cube hopping too, as I'm NCing a bit too due to the lack of a chiller.

Be sure to let us know how they come out, and what you'd change next time as I'm interested to see how your techniques turn out.

p.s. I wish I had a urn
 
sorry bit OT.

how do you find out your efficiency?? might be a stupid question but I am still doing extract.

i put the recipe into brewmate* along with the volume that went into the fermenter. then i adjust the efficiency until i get the same og as what i measured for the actual brew. this is assuming that the specs for the different grains in brewmate are correct, but they seem to make sense to me.

* brewmate is a free brewing software, havent tried any others but brewmate is very easy to use and seems to have all the tools you could want.



siborg- the roasted marris otter was in with the mash. the first pic is the MO, the second is an aproximation on the difference in colour. i'd say it is darker (between the caramalt pictured below from the craft brewer website and the caramunich on their site as well)

MO.jpg

bb-caramalt.jpg


i didnt want to go too far with the roasting as i was sceptical as to wether it should be roasted when the grain has been cracked, but it smelt good and the insides didnt seem burnt or anything. i'd like to try it again but do 2 small batches side by side to see the difference. dont know if i have the facilities to do 2 small batches like that though.


my boss who used to do homebrew says he has alot of bottles from back when he used to make homebrew and he said he'd grab me some. i find that i'm accumulating bottles fairly quickly. whenever i go to parties or whatever i walk away with alot of bottles. had a bit too much a week or so ago and woke up with my backpack full of empty crown seal stubbies. made my morning a bit better.
i just calculated that i have enough for 31L of brew so i'm not in too bad a situation. need another ~10-12L of bottles in 2 weeks if i have the dark ale in the primary and secondary for a week each.

raven19-

the 84% efficiency was higher than i would expect for a full mash. because i was using a kit for ~half of the fermentables the water -grain ratio was doubled, so the sugars were able to dissolve in the water more. the grains also held less liquor as there was less grains. i would be pleasantly surprised to hit 80% in a mash that uses ~5kg of grain. seems like a pretty efficient way to do it if you have cans that need to be used.
 
thought i'd mention that i didnt have a scale capable of small values. i "measured" the hops into small values by splitting the hops i had into 2. i started with 100g of hops, so to get 10g i would split the 100 in half visually, then split the 50g in half visually giving 25g. then i split that into parts as well. probably not accurate (and how do i know how accurate it was that i got 100g?) but it seemed to work.

i work part time at a butcher shop so i will try to organise myself to weigh the hops at work before my next brew, or see if i can make friends with a drug dealer :D
 
LOL - I did that once. It worked but I wouldnt trust myself to get it right every time.

But in all seriousness for $20 landed http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100g-x-0-01-DIGITAL...=item414a2544e1 its hard to beat. There are heaps on flee bay. I'm looking at some 40kg shop scales for weighing out grains. Weighing them out on 5kg max scales is wearing thin...
 
thought i'd mention that i didnt have a scale capable of small values. i "measured" the hops into small values by splitting the hops i had into 2. i started with 100g of hops, so to get 10g i would split the 100 in half visually, then split the 50g in half visually giving 25g. then i split that into parts as well. probably not accurate (and how do i know how accurate it was that i got 100g?) but it seemed to work.

i work part time at a butcher shop so i will try to organise myself to weigh the hops at work before my next brew, or see if i can make friends with a drug dealer :D

LOL + 2!

I've done that the last few times. I have a set of scales, but the notches are in increments of 22g or so, and the needle is shaky as f**k... breathe on it and it changes. Should stop being such a tightarse and just buy a set of digital scales.
 
LOL - I did that once. It worked but I wouldnt trust myself to get it right every time.

But in all seriousness for $20 landed http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100g-x-0-01-DIGITAL...=item414a2544e1 its hard to beat. There are heaps on flee bay. I'm looking at some 40kg shop scales for weighing out grains. Weighing them out on 5kg max scales is wearing thin...

i just bought one (same seller and price but a different model so i can use aaa bats as opposed to an uncommon type)

thanks
 
just a quick update.

both have been bottled (apa has been bottled since saturday, the brown ale has been bottled since thursday) fg on the apa was 1011, 1015 for the brown. bottled them both with roughly 150g of castor sugar.

couldnt resist trying one of the apa's on friday. aside from the lack of head after 6 days i was very impressed. nice hoppy flavour but still very smooth.
 
Welcome to the dark side. Glad it's turning out well. When I last got stimulated by Kevvie I bought digital scales from a kitchen shop (on the left of the piccie) - around $40 but I love them, they are accurate to one hop pellet and have a big stainless steel bowl that holds up to 1.5k of grain so I can do the spec grains to the nearest gram. Also it has a feature that you can keep resetting it to zero after each addition, so can accurately put in 300g then 200g etc etc.

equipment.JPG

For full volume BIABing another couple of good items are the paint stirrer and the cheap ALDI digital timer you can put in your pocket - I've set mine to 90 mins for mash and also boil so I can just go about my business while the brew is doing its thing and it buzzes me.

Edit: and a dead accurate probe thermometer. :icon_cheers:
 
thanks, some good tips.

the thermometer i'm using is a milk temp thermometer (for expresso machines). it mounts to the side of the urn which is great as i can just leave it there and take a peek when i need to (i do take it out when i insulate the urn) would like to check it compared to an accurate thermometer at around 65* to see if it is accurate though.

i have a long wooden spoon that can reach the bottom of the urn which works well for stirring. also have a kitchen scale that will measure to roughly 20g (dial read as opposed to digital) which i use for grain.

still havent recieved the scales that i should have. i think its probably at the post office and the note saying that its there was lost or something.

i've been using the timer on my phone which works well.
 

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