Dry Hopping Advice

[mwd]

I would say 95% aroma but smell has a huge effect on taste perception.

 

[flattop]

Mouapp

Others will correct me no doubt, but i understand that if you want a decent amount of taste (bitterness) then it is better to introduce hops by boiling them for about 30 mins as that releases the alpha acids and adding them before pitching (aroma hops are boiled for less time).
Dry hopping will produce flavor and aroma but not the bitterness.
For my part for now i am only dry hopping.

 

[buttersd70]

flattop, don't get caught with the misconception that hop flavour relies on bitterness or vice verca. They are totally differant animals.
Boiling the hop will release the chemical compounds that contribute to flavour, it just so happens that it will also cause isomorisation of the alpha acids that give the bittering; but that can always be manipulated by varying the BG. Anything more than a 20 minute boil will start to drive off this particular set of volatiles. Anything less than 20 minutes, which includes flameout additions and dry hopping (which are done primarily for aroma) will also add flavour, but of a different stripe, and to a lesser degree. Steeping or dry hopping, as far as flavour is concerned, adds a different flavour profile to a boiled addition, but it still does add flavour.

 

[flattop]

No i did not mean to give that idea, but my understanding is that the bitterness can be only added by heat, flavor can be added by dry hopping but different from bittering

 

[buttersd70]

No i did not mean to give that idea, but my understanding is that the bitterness can be only added by heat, flavor can be added by dry hopping but different from bittering

ok, I must have misread your earlier post.

One other thing that adding flavour and/or aroma, whether by dry hopping, or by boil addition, will do, is change the perception of bitterness, as tropical brews said. Whilst it may not add bitterness per se, the perception to a more strongly hop flavoured or aroma beer is that it is more bitter. The mind does funny things where the senses are concerned.

 

[flattop]

Anyhow, back t the main game.... the question was whether it is better to toss the hops in or use protection

Oh and Bribie mentioned the 3kg ESB kit, i had good results with that kit, it comes "pre-hopped" the hops in mine settled in the 2nd week perhaps due to the addition of finings.
The hops did end up in the yeast cake, but when i sloshed the yeast cake into a jar the hops settled on the bottom under the yeast.
However, when re-pitching that yeast it is difficult to keep the hops bits out unless you use a strainer (i didn't but didn't care as the results were great).

PS there was a thread on yeast washing a week or so back and the new science that recommends NOT doing it.

 

[muckey]

I have never worried about just tossing them in - I've always used pellet hops and it settles out OK

If the brews are similar I wouldn't (and don't) worry about hops in the trub.

To qualify that though - some recommend to only dry hop in secondary as an active ferment will drive off some of the aroma.
Ive done both and cant tell the difference.

Normally I keg the brew except for a little excess at the end which gets bottled and I haven't had any issues with bits in the beer other than times when I know I've handled the ferment/cube a bit too roughly. I know that finings wont drop hop detritus but I suspect chilling does ( I chill the brew after ferment before transferring to cube or keg (depending on how lazy I am) and I think that helps drop it out ( besides the yeast)

 

[mwd]

Interesting I dryhopped my latest with 13g Bramling Cross Pellets about 4 days ago and they have not sunk to the bottom. I have a green mat on the top of the brew looks like a stagnant pond with duckweed.

The pellets have obviously broken up and turned into 'floaters' bit like the picture with hop flowers in the carboy.

The finished bottles could be interesting.

 

[mynameisrodney]

I just chuck my pellets in secondary. I figure if hops is a good preservative, then having them form a nice mat on top of the brew is a bit of added protection anyway. And it settles out when i CC.

Chris

 

[Pumpy]

Interesting I dryhopped my latest with 13g Bramling Cross Pellets about 4 days ago and they have not sunk to the bottom. I have a green mat on the top of the brew looks like a stagnant pond with duckweed.

The pellets have obviously broken up and turned into 'floaters' bit like the picture with hop flowers in the carboy.

The finished bottles could be interesting.

If they are still floating then it is probably still fermenting I always wait till they drop

 

[mwd]

Yep still fermenting but very slowly chucked in at 1.020.
Last time I dryhopped some cascade they just sank like the 'Titanic' never to be seen again.

 

[Screwtop]

I use a 300mm square of swisse voile (yep the BIAB stuff) cheap as from Spotlight. Pop the voille square in a jug and pour over boiling water, wait 5 min, remove and put the pellets in, tie it up with a plastic coated twist-tie then toss em in, fermenter or keg. After the required time fish out the bag, bugger all left behind. Put the voille in napisan solution for a couple of days, rinse and hang to dry for next use.

Screwy

 

[Batz]

I really have not been completely happy with dry hopping ever,I have used it many times and enjoyed the beer but it's not quite right.
There is always a rough/sharp taste that I am not after at all.I find flame out better.Still better I believe would be a hop-back,of which I am building ATM


Batz

 

[tipsy]

I really have not been completely happy with dry hopping ever,I have used it many times and enjoyed the beer but it's not quite right.
There is always a rough/sharp taste that I am not after at all.I find flame out better.

I've been thinking the same for a while now and have just been using more late addition hops.

The flavour does seem a bit more rounded (if that makes sense)

 

[Batz]

I've been thinking the same for a while now and have just been using more late addition hops.

The flavour does seem a bit more rounded (if that makes sense)

Late additions may not quite give the taste your after either,dry hopping leaves an after taste type thingy for me that I have really grown tired of.
Who uses a hop-back ?


Batz

 

[yardy]

I really have not been completely happy with dry hopping ever,I have used it many times and enjoyed the beer but it's not quite right.
There is always a rough/sharp taste that I am not after at all.I find flame out better.Still better I believe would be a hop-back,of which I am building ATM


Batz

yeah i'm with you, my latest with styrian dry hopped is ok but i think could've been the same or better, aroma wise, with an addition at flame out.

yard

 

[Batz]

yeah i'm with you, my latest with styrian dry hopped is ok but i think could've been the same or better, aroma wise, with an addition at flame out.

yard

Now with our skills and cunning surely we could find a piece of stainless tube to make a couple of hop-backs. I am sure I've seen stainless tubing around the place

Batz

 

[SJW]

I dry hopped my last APA with 30g of Amarillo just after high krausen when the air lock started to slow. It was still a little early but they sunk to the bottom after another 3 days, then I mixed in the gelatine after crash cooling and it was very bright when I kegged. It also tastes very nice.

APA
American Pale Ale


Type: All Grain
Date: 1/11/2008
Batch Size: 26.00 L
Brewer: Stephen Wright
Boil Size: 31.86 L Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: My Gear
Taste Rating(out of 50): 0.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
4000.00 gm Pale Malt, Ale (Barrett Burston) (5.9 EBC) Grain 72.46 %
1000.00 gm Munich II (Weyermann) (16.7 EBC) Grain 18.12 %
500.00 gm Wheat Malt, Dark (Weyermann) (13.8 EBC) Grain 9.06 %
20.00 gm Chocolate Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1000.8 EBC) Grain 0.36 %
25.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
25.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (60 min) Hops 20.4 IBU
25.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (15 min) Hops 10.1 IBU
30.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (5 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
25.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (1 min) Hops 0.9 IBU
0.50 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs German Ale (Wyeast Labs #1007) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.050 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.050 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.98 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.95 %
Bitterness: 36.2 IBU Calories: 468 cal/l
Est Color: 15.2 EBC Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 5520.00 gm
Sparge Water: 12.39 L Grain Temperature: 20.0 C
Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C TunTemperature: 20.0 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Single Infusion, Medium Body Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 15.00 L of water at 71.3 C 65.0 C
10 min Mash Out Add 10.00 L of water at 94.8 C 76.0 C

 

[yardy]

Now with our skills and cunning surely we could find a piece of stainless tube to make a couple of hop-backs. I am sure I've seen stainless tubing around the place

Batz

Hmmm, stainless tube, let me see...

ah, yes, i do believe i know where i can get some, know a bloke who can weld also :icon_cheers:

now why didn't i think of that....

cheers

 

[debineko]

Boiling the hop will release the chemical compounds that contribute to flavour, it just so happens that it will also cause isomorisation of the alpha acids that give the bittering; but that can always be manipulated by varying the BG. Anything more than a 20 minute boil will start to drive off this particular set of volatiles. Anything less than 20 minutes, which includes flameout additions and dry hopping (which are done primarily for aroma) will also add flavour, but of a different stripe, and to a lesser degree. Steeping or dry hopping, as far as flavour is concerned, adds a different flavour profile to a boiled addition, but it still does add flavour.

So just to get this dry-hopping caper straight:

Dry-hopping is just thowing the teabag/pellets/flowers into the cooled wort (primary or secondary) cold?

Making up a hop tea (steeping?) and either adding just the liquid or the liquid+hops to a cold wort is still dry-hopping?

Seems to make sense that you'll more aroma with the hop tea rather than just thowing cold hops into a cold wort...

Reason I'm asking is because I'm just tasting a red ale sample that was dry-hopped cold about 5 days ago with amarillo (admittedly only 12g and in a teabag) but I'm not really getting any amarillo aroma, whereas when I added 25g amarillo (boiled 2 min, rest 15 min, pellets added with liquid to hot wort) to a K&K golden ale (coopers sparkling ale) the aroma came through beautifully.

Just wondering if I could have expected more aroma by making up a tea before adding, or whether the lack of effect is more to do with the small amount and the stronger maltiness of the red ale.

Cheers