'Doughing In'- How Long Can I Take?

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Econwatson

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Hi Guys,

I am using a brewery similar to QLDKev's. I often find that when I pour in my malt into the malt-pipe, it sort of expands before it 'settles down' and loses volume. The issue is my malt pipe is quite small so it tends to overflow, but if I can add the grain slowly, it settles down and it doesn't overflow, but it obviously takes longer.

My question is, is there time pressure when I am getting my malt in to the vessel or can I take my time (say 5 minutes might be enough) If so, when should I start the clock, guessing it's as soon as all the grain is in obviously. Would be interested to hear your opinions.

Cheers!
 
Grain first, water second? Either run your water through your valve if you've got a pump or enough head pressure, or run a hose down the side of your malt pipe and underlet you grain bed. Also means you're less likely to get dough balls.

JD
 
Hi, it's a 1V system so need to heat the water up in the vessel. Do you think it would be better or worse if I poured the grain into the malt pipe first then lowered it into the water once it was up to temperature? I suppose I could let the water in gradually that way?

Thanks for the reply :)
 
Depends a bit on temperature. If you start cooler and ramp up to mash in temp then your 5 minutes is a non-issue.

Whatever the temp is for the hydrated grain for that time, you will be optimising various enzymes. The effect will depend on how much grain, how long for and which enzymes.

Noticing any negative effects?
 
To be honest mate I've been trying to get the grains in ASAP so far which has led to some slight overflow and some grains in the wort. Not a huge issue but not something I want during the boil so I try and seive it out.

I think you're right. My mash control is still pretty basic so if I start adding grains at say 65 to 68, I should finish my dough in at about 68. It's either that or add the grain to the malt pipe and slowly lower her in. Wonder what I will do!

I'd like to get my mash control better and I am brewing a pilsner next. Do you have any recommendations for mash stepping for that? :) would like to try something new and I've heard Pilsners benefit from some step mashing.

Thanks!
 
I have a BM and I heat the water to 35 deg then add the grain and ramp to whatever temp required for my mash schedule EG 55 deg or Beta rest temps if bi passing the protein rest.
My machine ramps at approx 1 deg c per minute and I have not noticed any ill effects using this method.
At 35 deg you will have time to get your grain into the malt pipe as long as your machine ramps quickly, all should be OK.
 
52-55 for 5-10 mins.
63 for 10-20 mins
69 for 30-50 mins
72 for 10
78 for 10
 
One of the advantages of reverse flow (Brau style) is that the pipe is partially / mostly flooded or full of water during mash in which means that mash in is a little simpler. There isn't a rush. I mash in at 45, and usually take up to 8mins depending on the size of the grain bill.
 
I have a version of Qld Kev's system, mine is different only that I have gone HERMS rather than RIMS.
If you are using a 19 litre BigW pot as I do you should get 5 kgs of grain without spillage over the side of the pot.
When you mash in use a jug to pour in your grain a kilo at a time and use a potato masher to push the grain into the water,
Doughing in in this way takes about 3 minutes, having 87 brews done this way I have no problems.
I can post pics if you are interested or Pm me and I will give you more details.
 
Sorry for my late response guys, thanks for the insight. I will give manticle's mash schedule a blast since I like to do something while mashing! I'll also give the potato masher a go, that's a great shout! :)
 
I fill my malt pipe & slowly lower it into the pot, water is a couple of degrees above mash temps & equalises once the grain is added

Works for me
 
I'd also look at dicko's idea. Mash in at the Beta Glucanse temp as spending a few minutes to mash in will make bugger all difference. Then ramp up to your protein or beta rest. The only downside to this is depending on the heat density of your element, at 35c you run a huge risk of **** burning onto it.
 
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