Digital Thermostats

[Drew]

For sure, or a stanley knife.

I went the plug mounted on the outside to avoid this issue as per the above post. But the included switch units are very tidy!

I did see the chassis plug with the mounting holes - but I prefer having less metal going from inside to outside of the box. I've been considering whether to use a 3.5 mm plug for the sensor - but again adding metal to the outside of an unearthed unit seems as though it wouldn't meet the 'double insulated' definition. I've now bought another box (my third one...LOL) which is 2mm thick so should be able to make it work with the switched IEC.

I'm really keen to do this now c'mon postage...!

 

[coe-crl]

A quick tip for the hasty ones amongst us. Arrange all the components in the way you want them mounted and make sure you've got enough space inside your box for the wiring. If I did mine again I would have offset the unit to leave more space for plugs, or alternatively used the box lengthwise rather than widthwise.

 

[Drew]

Good pint chris.

I've actually bought three boxes now and have been laying out all the items trying to figure out how it will all fit.

The first was the 19.7x11 jiffy box from jaycar (same that you used?) but I think it's going to be too tight with the inbuilt mains sockets and IEC socket that I want to use. So then I got a slightly bigger polycarb from DSE - but it's really thick material. Then I got this one

and being 20 x 16 cm I think it will be perfect! I'd like the smaller box to work, but don't want all those 240v wires too cramped.

I assume they'll let me return the unused boxes!

Funny actually - I took the jiffy box, outlets and wire etc to the counter, and the staff member said "are you building a beer thermostat?"!

 

[coe-crl]

Well, at least you can't fault them for knowing their stuff!!!

Yeah, I used a small box because I'm a tightarse and it cost about $7, while the bigger ones were double the price or more. Everything fits in okay, but could be tidier with a bit better planning.

 

[dr K]

These controllers are rather good.
Mashematics (disclaimer I have financial interest in Mashematics) sell these for a tad more than the HK supplier ..currently $44 to your door in just a few days..www.mashematics.net.. but the savings you may make being an account customer by picking up the odd bargain from mashematics..(web-site under constant construction) may put a smile on your face.
Brickbats via the mashematics site thank you.

K

 

[Yeastie Beastie]

Good pint chris.

I've actually bought three boxes now and have been laying out all the items trying to figure out how it will all fit.

The first was the 19.7x11 jiffy box from jaycar (same that you used?) but I think it's going to be too tight with the inbuilt mains sockets and IEC socket that I want to use. So then I got a slightly bigger polycarb from DSE - but it's really thick material. Then I got this one

and being 20 x 16 cm I think it will be perfect! I'd like the smaller box to work, but don't want all those 240v wires too cramped.

I assume they'll let me return the unused boxes!

Funny actually - I took the jiffy box, outlets and wire etc to the counter, and the staff member said "are you building a beer thermostat?"!

Similar to the one I used in post #171 in this thread.

 

[sluggerdog]

Ok got to wiring my unit up.

I checked it against my Fridgemate and also the Tempmate thread and I'm pretty darn sure I have it all correct.

BUT before I plug it in I am going to wait till I get some feedback to say its right.

Haven't wired in the sensor yet...but want the other wiring checked.

Cheers, Pok

View attachment 35420

Any chance someone has a picture / photo like this but without the switch included? I'm pretty sure I know what I need to do however I would prefer if I could see someone elses. I will be using the STC-1000 with heating only (at this stage).

EDIT: DAMN the quote didin't include the picture: see here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry591068


Thanks

 

[drsmurto]

Looks the good, Quoth, WD.

They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me. He obviously knows what he is doing and i have shown i am capable of electrocuting myself changing a lightbulb (true story).

So now i have 2 el cheapo tempmates fully wired up for the grand total cost of $140 (which includes the cost of the 2 units) plus a few beers for the raven. :beerbang:

 

[komodo]

Love these things! Im getting me another 2. One for another fermenting fridge and I'm "toying" with the idea of a small fridge for cheese and trial batches. I think I have a fetish for temperature controlled fridges...

 

[raven19]

They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me. He obviously knows what he is doing and i have shown i am capable of electrocuting myself changing a lightbulb (true story).

So now i have 2 el cheapo tempmates fully wired up for the grand total cost of $140 (which includes the cost of the 2 units) plus a few beers for the raven. :beerbang:

Will have to post some piccies tonight if I remember of the latest efforts.

I reckon I spotted on of these controllers in the Lobethal Bierhaus the other week too through the viewing area of the brewery! (Hence we must be onto a good thing!)

 

[drsmurto]

Love these things! Im getting me another 2. One for another fermenting fridge and I'm "toying" with the idea of a small fridge for cheese and trial batches. I think I have a fetish for temperature controlled fridges...

I'll be using one of these to germinate vegie seeds and to keep the seedlings growing until its warm enough to plant out.

And i understand the addiction to fridges, i have 4 being used for brewing and another dead one i havent thrown out. :blink:

 

[raven19]

They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me.

Here they are in all their glory! :icon_cheers:

 

[drsmurto]

Here they are in all their glory! :icon_cheers:

View attachment 39409

:wub:

 

[MeLoveBeer]

Raven, they look porn... you should do the math on materials, labour etc and resell them to fund your brewing.

Maybe compile a how to?

 

[raven19]

Raven, they look porn... you should do the math on materials, labour etc and resell them to fund your brewing.

Maybe compile a how to?

I appreciate the kind words, but I am by no means a sparky - all learnt reading other posts on this great forum and other bits I have picked up around the traps.

The wiring is pretty straight forward as per posts in the Craftbrewer Tempmate thread iirc.

Other materials set us back a total of around $140 for two (as per Dr S's post above). So $70 each including the temp unit itself.

Tools used - jigsaw with wood blade, drill, pliers, screwdrivers.

 

[MeLoveBeer]

You've inspired me guys... just ordered one of the temp controllers and am well on my way to having complete temp control (finally).

Raven, any chance you've got a list of the part numbers I need to make it happen? (it'd be nice to walk in to jaycar with a list of proven components, but can fumble my way through if need be)

I've already for the details for the Chassis Power Plug (PP4005 IEC320 Male Chassis Power Plug)

 

[Acasta]

You've inspired me guys... just ordered one of the temp controllers and am well on my way to having complete temp control (finally).

Raven, any chance you've got a list of the part numbers I need to make it happen? (it'd be nice to walk in to jaycar with a list of proven components, but can fumble my way through if need be)

I've already for the details for the Chassis Power Plug (PP4005 IEC320 Male Chassis Power Plug)

+1, would love to see the parts you've used.

Also, did u use wolfy's wireing?

 

[chadjaja]

To power a HLT you have the hi and low set points that you have to change as brew day goes from strike temp to sparge. What does the set point do itself? Its seperate from the hi and low so does that change with each setting change to the low temp limit?

 

[Silo Ted]

Most of the discussion is around using these devices for cooling control, or occsional heating at fermentation temperatures. How well would this work as a mash day addition, with the temp controller switching on/off an electric kettle element at 65 degrees. I am looking at one on ebay now that is operates up to 99 degrees. How would the lead and the probe stand up to higher temperatures fully immersed? Is the device OK for switching on & off regularly within a 0.5 degree range several times through a one to two hour period?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4151ae21ac

 

[Wolfy]

@Silo Ted, the probe (as you can see in the Ebay picture) is a small plastic/rubber type one, so I'd not be too confident on it being suitable for heating mash liquor.
(But I have no evidence to back that up, just looking at mine I don't think it would last in the situation you outlined).

 

[Banshee]

Most of the discussion is around using these devices for cooling control, or occsional heating at fermentation temperatures. How well would this work as a mash day addition, with the temp controller switching on/off an electric kettle element at 65 degrees. I am looking at one on ebay now that is operates up to 99 degrees. How would the lead and the probe stand up to higher temperatures fully immersed? Is the device OK for switching on & off regularly within a 0.5 degree range several times through a one to two hour period?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4151ae21ac

I use two in my brew system.
One is a thermostat which i use in my HLT
Second is a thermometer which I use in my mash tun.

The thermpmeter probe in the mash tun (kettle) is place inside my pickup pipe. I turn my pick up pipe so it is facing up and place the probe down the tube. This way when I stir the mash it does not get tangled.

I have had them for years and no problems with em.

 

[Silo Ted]

Thanks Wolfy that was a concern I had too, the long term performance of plastic probe and cable. Apart from that, is the electronic device accurate under hot liquid conditions?

Banshee - with your HLT setup do you use an after market SS probe and temp-rated insulated cable, or have you found the standard probe to be fine after repeated use? Just looking at the SS probe on Craftbrewer, but not sure if this is compatible with the cheap ebay controllers. I would be looking at only one unit that can be moved from mash day to fermentation fridge when I get one. So a probe wont be hard installed in the kettle but just dangle in there.

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

 

[Banshee]

Banshee - with your HLT setup do you use an after market SS probe and temp-rated insulated cable, or have you found the standard probe to be fine after repeated use? Just looking at the SS probe on Craftbrewer, but not sure if this is compatible with the cheap ebay controllers. I would be looking at only one unit that can be moved from mash day to fermentation fridge when I get one. So a probe wont be hard installed in the kettle but just dangle in there.

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

I use the probe that came with it. The one with the little rubber tip.
I have compared the temp with various thermometers and it is very accurate.
I use mine on my fermaentaion fridge as a guide as I use a liquid filled analogue thermostat in my fridges.

 

[raven19]

I use one for my HLT, with the probe inside a beerbelly thermowell. Works a treat.

 

[Silo Ted]

Thanks, think I will grab myself one. Before I do, can someone explain to me what a PID controller is, and how does it differ from the the temperature controllers being discussed on this thread?

 

[LethalCorpse]

PID stands for Proportional, Integral and Differential. An on/off controller like most of those discussed here is very simple - when the measured temp is below the setpoint, its output is on, when it's above the setpoint, it's off (or vice-versa for one controlling a cooler rather than a heater). A PID controller has a variable output, dependant on the difference between the measured temp and the setpoint (the error). Its output is the sum of three values: P - proportional to the current error , I - proportional to the integral of the error (the sum of all previous errors - allows it to approach the correct value over time) and D - proportional to the derivative of the error, (used to overcome fast changes in error). More information here

 

[felon]

I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.

 

[Banshee]

I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.

Look here they have 16amp ones which means no need for a relay.

http://www.kegking.com.au/Downloads/Catalo...rice%20List.pdf

 

[LethalCorpse]

I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.

If you're not confident enough to hook it up to a relay, why the hell do you think you're fine to wire it up to run a fridge?

 

[felon]

I have just rewired my house and garage with the help of a sparky mate. All of my circuits are RCD protected including 32A 415V in my garage. General wiring is easy and help is just a phone call away. If I let the smoke out of a 20 year old fridge that's a great excuse to upgrade my fridge knowing that my house won't burn down.