Demand Valve For Beer Engine

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Any developments Dave?

Offline,

You may not need a demand valve unless you intend to carbonate your keg normally
and use the keg pressure to push the beer into the Engines.

If you have not already done so have a read of the whole "Show us your Beer Engines " thread.
If you have already done so I will shut up.

i have 2 Beer Engines and use minimal keg pressure and an aspirator to control the quantity and
pressure of CO2 into the keg when the Engine is in use.

Regards

Graeme
 
Any developments Dave?

Not that you would be interested (I have just seen your other post)

Cask availability and price has been fixed and handpump, shives, taps, cask breathers and stop valves (btw that is what the white things are in the back of your cabinet) have been located and just waiting on bulk pricing from the wholeslaers or manufacturers.

We will half fill a container and then send it to SPain where it will be filled with new kegs and they will be on their way.

The attached document has some pics of what we are looking for.

Dave

View attachment Casking.pdf
 
Offline,

You may not need a demand valve unless you intend to carbonate your keg normally
and use the keg pressure to push the beer into the Engines.

If you have not already done so have a read of the whole "Show us your Beer Engines " thread.
If you have already done so I will shut up.

i have 2 Beer Engines and use minimal keg pressure and an aspirator to control the quantity and
pressure of CO2 into the keg when the Engine is in use.

Regards

Graeme

I thought Dave might be importing some aspirators is why I asked.
There is no need to shut up though, even if I have already read the suggested thread others interested might not have.

Not that you would be interested (I have just seen your other post)

Cask availability and price has been fixed and handpump, shives, taps, cask breathers and stop valves (btw that is what the white things are in the back of your cabinet) have been located and just waiting on bulk pricing from the wholeslaers or manufacturers.

We will half fill a container and then send it to SPain where it will be filled with new kegs and they will be on their way.

The attached document has some pics of what we are looking for.

Dave

View attachment 28726

Are the cask breathers the same as an aspirator? If so Im after one.
I think I might have another couple of other tiny issues but wont know until I do a water test on the weekend.
 
I thought Dave might be importing some aspirators is why I asked.
There is no need to shut up though, even if I have already read the suggested thread others interested might not have.



Are the cask breathers the same as an aspirator? If so Im after one.
I think I might have another couple of other tiny issues but wont know until I do a water test on the weekend.


Cask breather and aspirator is the same thing.
 
Hi Dave

Please put me down in the queue for a breather and check valve. I hand carried my 20 quid (e-bay) beer engine around the world last month and now need to set it up properly.

Any timing when the goodies will be available?

Peter
 
Hi Dave

Please put me down in the queue for a breather and check valve. I hand carried my 20 quid (e-bay) beer engine around the world last month and now need to set it up properly.

Any timing when the goodies will be available?

Peter


I was hoping to get this all bedded down before winter as the room temperatures are ideal for drinking real ale, but we were messed around by a supplier. We have now changed suppliers and things are moving again but it will take 2 months to get a container packed and out here.

But this will only affect the hand pumps and casks used by the micro brewers getting into real ale. The bits and pieces can be air freighted out here so we are talking about 2-3 weeks.

If you are going to use standard kegs instead of casks having a stop valve is probably a better option than a cask breather/aspirator. The breather works by allowing CO2 to flow into the cask to replace the beer drawn off. On a corny the disconnect fitting size is fairly small so the hand pump has to 'suck' pretty hard to get the beer out. This can result in gas coming out of solution.

You could just apply some CO2 pressure to your keg to help 'push' the beer out but this has to get bled off again so that the beer doesn't overgas and any pressure in the keg pushes the beer straight out through the beer engine.

The stop valve goes between the keg and handpump and only allows beer to flow when the hand pump sucks - if there is no suck on the stop valve no beer flows.

I will post the full details here when available.

Thanks
David
 
Hi david

Thanks but your reply raises some questions

The stop valve sounds the way to go (non return valve) as I don't want any stale beer in the cylinder/pipes draining back into the keg.

So are you recommending that an aspirator should only be used with a cask?

Peter
 
Hi david

Thanks but your reply raises some questions

The stop valve sounds the way to go (non return valve) as I don't want any stale beer in the cylinder/pipes draining back into the keg.

So are you recommending that an aspirator should only be used with a cask?

Peter
My understanding is it works in the opposite direction. It stops beer coming out of the keg until you pump the beer engine handle. I you have a pressurised keg and no demand valve then beer would pour straight through the beer engine .

Regards

Graeme
 
My understanding is it works in the opposite direction. It stops beer coming out of the keg until you pump the beer engine handle. I you have a pressurised keg and no demand valve then beer would pour straight through the beer engine .

Regards

Graeme

Graham is correct - the beer can't drain out of a (correctly functioning) pump as it has a valve that stops it draining back.


David
 
Depending on price I'd like 2 stop valves and 2 aspirators. I'd rather not have to keep having to remember to apply gas to replace the keg headspace so will let the aspirator do that. At the moment with my engine slightly below the height of the freezer beer drains through the engine until the liquid level drops below the spout. Thankfully it's only a fer mLs but it would be good if it was a proper sealed system.
 
Necro.
Cant really find what I'm after. I have a check valve as in previous threads I've talked about leaking beer engine. That should stop the beer being pushed through when in the off position. I'm looking at getting an aspirator. From all research I need to set my feed at about 5psi.
I cant possibly be that accurate with my gauge. The scale is 0-100 psi (I think)
Question is, can I use this and just get the gas flowing as low as possible and the aspirator will cope or should I get a regulator with a much smaller range? 0-15psi or 0-30psi?
Thanks girls and boys.
 
it should be OK to just set the reg pressure as low as you can. this is what I do and I have a standard double reg.
 
mckenry said:
Necro.
Cant really find what I'm after. I have a check valve as in previous threads I've talked about leaking beer engine. That should stop the beer being pushed through when in the off position. I'm looking at getting an aspirator. From all research I need to set my feed at about 5psi.
I cant possibly be that accurate with my gauge. The scale is 0-100 psi (I think)
Question is, can I use this and just get the gas flowing as low as possible and the aspirator will cope or should I get a regulator with a much smaller range? 0-15psi or 0-30psi?
Thanks girls and boys.
McKenry,

I use one of these "Norgren" in-line regulators to set my pressure to about 5 PSI or less.

It allows very fine control IMO.


23-11-2016 001.JPG
 
wally said:
McKenry,

I use one of these "Norgren" in-line regulators to set my pressure to about 5 PSI or less.

It allows very fine control IMO.


attachicon.gif
23-11-2016 001.JPG
I use a similar Norgren regulator as well. The gauge is 0-100 Kpa and I set it to 25 KPa with the kegs at 10C. Gives the right carbonation level.
When I first set up my beer engines around 9 years ago I had a cask breather but found it unsuitable in a homebrew situation.
The cask breather would be fine if I could get through a keg in a week or two. Every time you connect up the cask breather it vents the keg down to atmospheric. When you draw off beer the cask breather replaces that volume with CO2.
That stops the beer oxidising but by venting off the keg every time you connect it, you end up losing all the condition / carbonation in the beer.
I know some Australians think that pommy ales are flat but they should have some nice, low condition, maybe around 1.5 Volumes.
I find with the small amount of CO2 supplied by the secondary regulator, the beer keeps its condition for the length of the keg.
It's not enough pressure to force the beer up through the beer engine and it wouldn't be CAMRA approved, but it works well in a homebrew situation.
 
I use a similar Norgren regulator as well. The gauge is 0-100 Kpa and I set it to 25 KPa with the kegs at 10C. Gives the right carbonation level.
When I first set up my beer engines around 9 years ago I had a cask breather but found it unsuitable in a homebrew situation.
The cask breather would be fine if I could get through a keg in a week or two. Every time you connect up the cask breather it vents the keg down to atmospheric. When you draw off beer the cask breather replaces that volume with CO2.
That stops the beer oxidising but by venting off the keg every time you connect it, you end up losing all the condition / carbonation in the beer.
I know some Australians think that pommy ales are flat but they should have some nice, low condition, maybe around 1.5 Volumes.
I find with the small amount of CO2 supplied by the secondary regulator, the beer keeps its condition for the length of the keg.
It's not enough pressure to force the beer up through the beer engine and it wouldn't be CAMRA approved, but it works well in a homebrew situation.
Where did you get the Norgren regulator from billygoat ?
 
Where did you get the Norgren regulator from billygoat ?
Had it left over from a job I had done in a previous working life. Any decent pnuematic suppliers would stock them.
Still use the same set up today, works well.
Edit - Looks like Norgren are in Roweville, Vic.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top