Not very, and yes.
So are the thermostats unreliable (ie variable results at the same setting) or just inaccurate? I have a Roland urn and its dial is inaccurate but once you work out what the equivalent temp is you can hit it perfectly every time. For me to get 78deg I set the dial on 90. Works every time.
If this is the same on Crown urns I wouldn't bother with an extra temp controller, especially if its just being used as an HLT.
Why would you want to get a tempmate? Just set it on max and when it's about at strike temperature stick in an accurate thermometer and when you get to the required temp (say 70 degrees) then switch it off.
Why would you want to get a tempmate? Just set it on max and when it's about at strike temperature stick in an accurate thermometer and when you get to the required temp (say 70 degrees) then switch it off.
That's fine if you are there while it heats. A lot of people set their HLT on a timer to head during the night so you are ready to brew in the morning.
Done and dusted in that case!
That sounds pretty logical bribie, when will you be doing your next brew??
Not very, and yes.
In the above photo of Sherman to the right the top tempmate in the control box controls the HLT. You can see the probe wire top left running up the side of the HLT which then runs into the urn via a keg dip tube sealed off which acts as a thermowell. The probe is placed about 2/3 of the way down as I wanted to be reading the temp closer to tap height to compensate for thermoclines in the HLT. You would be surprised by the variations in temp as you drop water out of the urn. Never really more than say 1C but the beer geek in me finds it interesting!
Hey Chappo,
How accurate is the Temp of the HLT with the Probe in the dip tube out of curiousity???
CB
Ive just dragged out a 10-12.5ltr Birko Urn from the Storeroom at Work, its never been used here so going to try swindle it, be good for Heat Exchanger!!!![]()
+1 LC
If your BIABing I wounldn't think this is as critical as your doing a single infusion mash but you would want to be sure your strike temp is hit from the start. I'm no expert on BIABing and prolly Bribie would be best to discuss this issue. However if you teamed up a tempmate in this application for BIAB you could easily maintain mash temps to within 0.5C which I imagine would be beneficial and save on rugging up the urn? Again no expert and best left for the BIAB gurus to discuss. :icon_cheers:
Chappo
The problem for me in trying this method seemed to be that the grain settles in the bottom of the urn and forms a blanket over the element and the temperature sensor which is next to it, trapping heat from rising efficiently. So you end up with a nice 68 degrees on the bottom of the urn but much colder temps up above, which leads to woeful efficiency as the sides of the urn leak out heat.
When I switched to Bribie's method of passive mashing, it boosted my efficiency as the loss of heat is much less and more even throughout. Of course what you are saying would work very well if you had accurate temperature control and a way to stir the mash constantly, but that is difficult using a bag, unless you had a frame of some description to keep the bag touching the sides of the urn and away from the stirrer.
Hmm, got me thinking now...![]()
Love the Sherminator by the way, will have to have a look at it one day if I make it up your way Chappo!
Crundle