The current confused use of the word ‘craft’ to describe beer from both small and large breweries began simply from our struggle with the English language to find a suitable descriptor for beers with certain perceived qualities.
This sort of struggle with our language to cope with change is not uncommon. Before the 1600s in England the honorific ‘esquire’ was used to describe men who were armigerous – they had a legal right to display a coat of arms as registered with the College of Heralds in London. Men of high status who were not armigerous were termed ‘Mr’. or ‘gentleman’ instead. But by the late 1600s economic progess had produced many new-moneyed men and the term esquire was widely used to denote their status regardless of their legal right to be called esquires. And the College of Heralds gave up policing the matter (although today it is still technically illegal be use a coat of arms without right). I imagine many an old knight tut-tutted about the new moneyed interloppers using the word esquire, just as we are indignant of mega-breweries cashing in on the name ‘craft’ beer.
In recent times we have seen the use of the words like ‘digital’ or simply ‘technology’ to descibe modern computer and communications devices. On closer parallel with the use of ‘craft’ has been the use of ‘organic’ to describe unadulterated or unsullied food.
Prior to its proloiferation in the shops the word ‘organic’was used exclusively to describe the carbon-based substances found or derived from living things (eg. sugars, proteins). Organic chemistry was and still is the study of these such carbon-based chemicals found in plants, animals etc. Up until the recent past, if someone told you to add organic matter to your garden beds you added manure, compost or other rotted down biological material rather than mineral fertilisers. Now, you go to Bunnings and find bags of compost labelled ‘organic’. Which implies those bags not so labelled are not organic?
I think we are at point with craft beer that the organic movement was in not so long ago. In the early days the big food companies moved in on the term ‘organic’ and used it to promote their own mega-brand food products. This was much to the outrage of small organic producers who responded by setting up accreditation organisations with compliance schemes. These organisations gave members a stamp or symbol to display on their products which indicated compliance with certain standards (eg, pesticide and weedicide free etc.). Many such organisations and schemes came into being, some supported by the food giants, and a minor war has raged between them for popular recognition.
One lesson to be learned is that if the genuine ‘craft’ beer producers want to protect their product, market share and customer loyalty then they need to get together and establish an accreditation scheme - something that enshrines processes and handling as well as ingredients. Then we the buying public will know, by the trade-marked symbol, that the beer abides by certain standards.
But what exactly should those standards criteria be? And will the so-called ‘craft’ breweries be willing to go along. Afrer all, breweries both large and small are primarily run to make money.
Would Little Creatures Pale Ale have been the cash bonanza it was for its original brewers if the mega-breweries which bought the brand were compelled to continue producing the beer the same way it was in the beginning? To change the recipe or processes to produce the watery version we know today (compared with the original) the mega-brewery would risk losing the craft accreditation symbol, and thus we would know its not the same beer before buying it.
No doubt the mega-breweries could respond by paying some well regarded food or beer guru to set up a rival accreditation scheme that could give the appearance of high standards while allowing junk beer to masquerade as craft beer. This is what happened with organic foods accreditation schemes. Confuse the market with multiple rival schemes and the big boys win.