Coopers Stout – 23L

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Hi guys,
Just to add my tuppence worth on the hydrometer comments.
There are tables/tools online that lets you adjust your hydrometer reading for temperature. I'm sure you guys have come across them.

I'm also surprised no one has mentioned the use of a refractometer.

I've been using one for about 15 years now. It is so easy to take readings.

I'm into all grain brewing now, but if I have no time to do a full brew day then Cooper's kits are my go to backup.

Regards

Davie
 
I do take hydrometer readings lots of them, but that's for different reasons.
Have a bunch of different hydrometers to, only one of then is calibrated at 15.6oC and it gets used to take readings from the fermenter which is usually pretty close to 16oC so little need to worry about temperature corrections.

When reading an hydrometer consistency is really the most important, if you do it the same way every time your results will be more accurate. In most cases it the changes in gravity that we need.
For most hydrometers this is the correct way to read the results.
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But (as always in brewing) there are some that say to read top of meniscus, some are even designed to be read from underneath (for foamy liquids).
As Coalminer noted it should say what temperature and if other than read the bottom of the meniscus that to should be stated on the hydrometer.
Mark
Interesting that Mark, I've had three hydrometers so far, 2 didn't bounce but they were all designed to be read to the top of the miniscus, seems more difficult to read accurately when you have to guess where the top of the meniscus is.

Ar ethe ones that read at the bottom more upmarket and expensive and not the cheap ones sold in home brew shops?
 

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Probably not so much a matter of price as function. The size of the meniscus is determined by the surface tension of the liquid. Water, wort and beer (mostly water and alcohol) will all have a different surface tension so will have a different sized meniscus. Means that there will be a slight error built into the readings.
Brewers might be happy to put up with a built in error, people who work in labs wouldn't be (aren't).
Mind you by slight I'm talking less than 0.0001 so well past the point where it matters to a home brewer.
Apparently it does to the tax man, all the hydrometers and alcoholmeters I have seen that are certified for excise are "read at bottom..."
More important to use your hydrometer consistently and at the right temperature (or apply corrections).
The hydrometer I use at home is the same Alla made in France that I think you have there and I use it the same way, read at top - but then again at home I'm not going to go to jail if I miss report the numbers.
Mark
 
So it has been two weeks since I bottled this stout.

I plonked two of them in the fridge in the morning and tested at the end of the day, some carbonation, but pretty much flat.

The PET bottles were not super hard. The caps are all on tight and I put x2 carbonation lollies in each bottle, so I think that it must be too cold in the cupboard where they have been kept. I'll wait another week and give them a squeeze or I might move them to a warmer spot.

I was happy with the taste, for cold flat beer, so that is great!
 
May I make a few observations: based on about 40 years experience with Coopers Stout.
1) It yields consistent predictable results & is not particularly sensitive to brewing temperature, let common sense rule..
2) If you do a two can brew (strongly recommended) results are even better, at least the equivalent of Guinness, if a little sharper/more bitter.
3) Just use the standard Coopers yeast, use 2 sachets for a two can brew.
(Snip)

Hi Peter, is that 2 cans of Coopers Stout because I see some Toucan recipes using 1 Stout and 1 Dark Ale? Do you add any DME or adjuncts and do you dry hop and if so which hops would you recommend?
 
Hi Peter, is that 2 cans of Coopers Stout because I see some Toucan recipes using 1 Stout and 1 Dark Ale? Do you add any DME or adjuncts and do you dry hop and if so which hops would you recommend?

I've also seen this done as one Coopers Stout can and a can of Cooper's light liquid malt extract.
 
I think that's just the standard version with the liquid malt as a substitute for DME. I'll have to take a look at the instructions on the can. Also wouldn't dark malt be more appropriate for a stout?
 
I think that's just the standard version with the liquid malt as a substitute for DME. I'll have to take a look at the instructions on the can. Also wouldn't dark malt be more appropriate for a stout?

You are correct. Dark extract would be more appropriate.
 

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