Coopers Kit Yeast

[daveHQ]

hi all, i have been brewing kits for a while now, iv'e been experamenting with different things (bulk priming ect) i'd like to start trying different yeasts to see what differance that makes

firstly what sort of yeast is in the coopers kits? as these are what i use

my favorite is coopers australian pale ale, this 1 has a different yeast to the other kits, it looks like 2 different yeasts in the same pack, white and brown, is there a better yeast to use than this or is this a good 1 anyway

 

[AussieJosh]

Best place to ask about coopers yeasts is in the coopers forums at the coopers web site (Paul) Also know as PB2 will be able to help you! The pale ale as far as i know is an ale yeast, there are also ale and larger mixes in some of there kits and also Lager, US05 SafAle from your local homebrew shop would work well with Pale Ale also!

 

[Yob]

firstly what sort of yeast is in the coopers kits?

G'day Dave... From what I have disovered thus far, The 'kit' yeast is a fairly generic kind of a beast.. yeast... Personally Ive taken to using 'Kit yeast' as nutrient in part of a step up proceedure of reculturing Coops Bottle yeast.. That said I have also taken to making starters from other sorts of yeast.. Currently APA with Muntons Gold Superior @ 18'c and planning on a Nottingham @ 14'c.. screw the kit yeast.. makes for good food for "real yeast".. well theres 1.25 cents worth anywhoo..

Note: I seem to find myself in OP shops all the time now looking for bottles... Is this normal? :unsure:

 

[waggastew]

From another homebrew forum......

The Original Series (Lager, Real Ale, Draught, Bitter, Stout and Dark Ale) are all ale yeasts.
International Series Canadian Blonde is ale.
International Series Bavarian Lager and Brewmaster Selection Pilsener are Saflager (P is stamped next to useby date).
Brewmaster Selection Wheat Beer is a wheat beer yeast (W next to useby date).
Brewmaster Selection Nut Brown Ale is (was, as it's now discontinued) an ale yeast (but different to the Original Series yeast).
Brewmaster Selection India Pale Ale is an ale yeast, but I'm not sure what type.
The Irish Stout comes with an ale yeast.
The International Series Mexican Cerveza is an ale/lager blend

- Original series. Original Coopers kit yeast, possibly the Mauri B512 strain.
- Canadian Blonde: Original Coopers kit yeast.
- Bavarian Lager, Pilsner: Saflager S-189 (not the more common S-23)
- Wheat Beer: Safale K-97
- Nut Brown Ale, IPA: Safbrew S-33
- Pale Ale, Australian Sparkling Ale, Heritage Draught, Australian Bitter, Traditional Lager: Ale yeast + Saflager S-189

 

[ChefDave]

Hi Dave,

Why not try re-culturing the yeast from the Coopers Pale Ale? There would be a guide in the article section of the forum, other wise follow this link ----->http://www.scribd.com/doc/13108832/Coopers-Yeast-Culturing- and download the PDF file. It's a little bit of work, but if you're interested in brewing dynamics, it should be fun. You're not going to find a more authentic yeast than that

Dave

 

[daveHQ]

thanks guy, a wonderfull help

i recived a PM from a local member offering me a starter made from a coopers bottle, so i think i'll make my next brew a coopers Aus pale ale

should be good to compare the differance

 

[michaelcocks]

thanks guy, a wonderfull help

i recived a PM from a local member offering me a starter made from a coopers bottle, so i think i'll make my next brew a coopers Aus pale ale

should be good to compare the differance

I understood the Coopers yeasts to be the Mauri brew

Sheet Attached...

The actual Coopers yeast you can get by culturing from a bottle of Coopers.

Take 20gm LDM (Light Dry Malt) and Add to 200ml boiling water - boil (simmer is OK) for 10 mins
Cover with Aluminium foil and chuck it in the fridge for 2 hours or so.
Take a sanitized coke (PET) bottle (1 or 1.5L should be fine)
Poor a Coopers into a glass (except last 2cm) - DONT swig from the bottle - enjoy this beer...
Now - add the dregs from Coopers bottle to the Sanitized PET bottled.
Then add the cooled wort (that what the LDM and water is called)
Put the cap back (you did sanitize the cap too right?)
Shake like buggery.

Stand somewhere around 20-25C Loosen the cap (but leave it on) come back the next day (you can give it 2 or 3 more extra shakes) - Look up how to make a yeast "starter" here or on howtobrew.com

You'll have enough genuine Coopers yeast to pitch - careful this one is a hungry monster - it can chew threw an ale in 1-2 days (it's also very hardy)

Happy brewing

Michael

View attachment mauribrew_Ale_514.pdf

View attachment mauribrew_Lager_497.pdf

 

[Yob]

I understood the Coopers yeasts to be the Mauri brew

Sheet Attached...

The actual Coopers yeast you can get by culturing from a bottle of Coopers.

Take 20gm LDM (Light Dry Malt) and Add to 200ml boiling water - boil (simmer is OK) for 10 mins
Cover with Aluminium foil and chuck it in the fridge for 2 hours or so.
Take a sanitized coke (PET) bottle (1 or 1.5L should be fine)
Poor a Coopers into a glass (except last 2cm) - DONT swig from the bottle - enjoy this beer...
Now - add the dregs from Coopers bottle to the Sanitized PET bottled.
Then add the cooled wort (that what the LDM and water is called)
Put the cap back (you did sanitize the cap too right?)
Shake like buggery.

Stand somewhere around 20-25C Loosen the cap (but leave it on) come back the next day (you can give it 2 or 3 more extra shakes) - Look up how to make a yeast "starter" here or on howtobrew.com

You'll have enough genuine Coopers yeast to pitch - careful this one is a hungry monster - it can chew threw an ale in 1-2 days (it's also very hardy)

Happy brewing

Michael

most of the above i can agree with, however... as I understood it..
.. it was better to add the small amount of yeast collected to a relativly "small environment" ie. the equivalent to the amount collected... so maybe 30-40ml, swirl often for a day.. add 50ml and repeat....(I have 2 containers, one with 500ml LDME to add to the yeast vessel).. repeat up to 500ml..
(The reason for this is to keep them in the "growth stage" until you have a sufficient viable colony ready to make beer.. if you give them too much too early they get lazy... like australian men I heard it put) this is then ready to be added to a larger amount, say 1lt.. pitch... wait... and when at high krausen... into ya brew...

Result?...

FA lag time and yuo know you have hungry beasties.. yeasties.. with teh very pleasing knowlage that you grew them yourself...
That is unless I have it wrong too.. I also understand that there are methods that work for people far diff. to this..
If you can keep it all sanitary and so on.. there is much that can be done with yeast culturing, I for one enjoy the sport when a brew is down and im in that new game I know called..

WAITING

 

[michaelcocks]

most of the above i can agree with, however... as I understood it..
.. it was better to add the small amount of yeast collected to a relativly "small environment" ie. the equivalent to the amount collected... so maybe 30-40ml, swirl often for a day.. add 50ml and repeat....(I have 2 containers, one with 500ml LDME to add to the yeast vessel).. repeat up to 500ml..
(The reason for this is to keep them in the "growth stage" until you have a sufficient viable colony ready to make beer.. if you give them too much too early they get lazy... like australian men I heard it put) this is then ready to be added to a larger amount, say 1lt.. pitch... wait... and when at high krausen... into ya brew...

Result?...

FA lag time and yuo know you have hungry beasties.. yeasties.. with teh very pleasing knowlage that you grew them yourself...
That is unless I have it wrong too.. I also understand that there are methods that work for people far diff. to this..
If you can keep it all sanitary and so on.. there is much that can be done with yeast culturing, I for one enjoy the sport when a brew is down and im in that new game I know called..

WAITING

I think we on the same wavelength to clarify..
Agreed generally "step up" is important. (But Coopers is a wild one!!! and doesn't need much encouragement)
That's why I recommend 20mg LDM in 200ml Water and Not go straight to 100mg LDM in 1L
Any other yeasts I recommend a "step up" of the LDM to Water ratio (ie 20mg in 200ml, then 500mg in 500ml then 100gm in 1L) over 3 days
I have noted that genuine Coopers is a fast feeder and breeder you don't need much to get a kit beer going.
In the past I have just poored the dregs in from a Coopers straight into the fermenter (and it has still finished up in 3 days!!)

 

[daveHQ]

update time

i made a starter, it's been stepped upto 1lt and it's ready to use, but first i have 1 quick question

do i tip the whole thing in? i mean like the whole lot!

or do i tip the beer off the top (into a jug of course) and just put in the yeast?

sorry for the silly question but all the info iv'e read just says how to make it

 

[wambesi]

update time

i made a starter, it's been stepped upto 1lt and it's ready to use, but first i have 1 quick question

do i tip the whole thing in? i mean like the whole lot!

or do i tip the beer off the top (into a jug of course) and just put in the yeast?

sorry for the silly question but all the info iv'e read just says how to make it

After the starter has done it's thing I usually throw it in the fridge for a few days to let it settle out better, but after that I then tip out most of the beer thats on top and mix it all up then throw that in. It's all beer but I would rather throw the sludge in by itself than another almost litre of already fermented beer.